OK SO I,m doing the 6.1 cam and shorties (see sig) for now to satisfy the need for speed temporarily.
HOWEVER, funds for a stroker should be readily available by spring of 08
I'm looking at the 392 but want the most bang for my buck cuz' it'll be lots of them all rolled up in a big wad!
So what kind of numbers are you guys making with the 392?
I pretty much need one that I can drop in and run with HAL, so I think the 426 is out, I also wonder if the long block packages for the 392 are more cost effective?
Who's got the best kits for completenes and price ?
I don't want to assemble the bottom end myself but will do all the other work myself.
OK, Thanks in advance and let 'er rip, any and all comments pertaining to the subject are invited and welcome!
Last edited by mtcraigco; 09-24-2007 at 11:50 AM. Reason: spelling, Im freekin tired!
2006 GoMan-Go Daytona #0023-4000, tons of mods.
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2010 Cadillac Escalade, Diablo Tuned
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2007 Jeep JK, Lift, winch etc.
(all paid for )
You should also add in what you plan to use the car for. Drag racing? Road racing? Street driving? Also are you planning to run nitrous or forced induction? Do you want an engine built with the best parts available or that's the best "value" based on price vs. cubic inches only?
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Daily driver/week-end warrior at the drag strip, primarily a street brawler. Im thinkng a long stoke kit to maximize torque/driveability vs a short stroke kit for high RPM, say 3000ish to 6500ish powerband.
I want it N/A and to live under moderate abuse and hard use. RPM ceiling will be enforced at 6250 or 6500 depending on the strength of the parts
Nitrous is possible but not a for sure and would not exceed a 100 shot. (I'd likely stay with a 75 just to be safe. Would also run a window switch cutting in and out at safe rpm points. Only looking to juice it for icing on the cake)
Probably no forced induction. Maybe a year or two down the road but not initially. Likely be another car/engine for that anyway.
I don't mind spending some extra dough for better/best (forged pistons/lightweight rods) parts but I will definitely balance this with cost effectiveness. It will get hard street use more than anything else so it does not have to last for 2000 1/4 mile passes at 8k rpm or anything like that.
I also did some searching and found gobs of info, but up to date info is appreciated even more.
I just had a 392 built by the hemi shop, if your going to spend the money to build a stroker, do it right. Go with better pistons and rods than you can afford, get the rings properly gapped for the nitrous if you think your going to spray. Spring for the coating on the tops and skirts of the pistons.
Since you don't want to do the assembly yourself, just get THS to build you a short block and buy a set of heads from them at the same time.
Mine is a screamer, comes on strong at the bottom end and makes power to around 6300 or 6400 RPM, it is violently fast and thats without spray, which I plan to save for the track.
Sounds like exactly what I'm after, whats your investment on the setup?
Any dyno numbers or 1/4 ets?
What about traction?
Obi, how are the A/F ratios looking?
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No dyno yet, I'm still sorting out computer issues, same on the quarter.
Traction, heheh whats that?
It doesn't seem to be running pig rich, I can't smell fuel or see any signs of richness.
I talked to Dave @ B&G about getting a Predator flash emailed to me, supposed to call him back when my predator arrives.
The stroker will run on a stock computer, if you keep the cam small. a 392 with a mopar 6.1 cam in there will probably run with just a superchips Flash. if you bump the cam up a good custom B&G or Diablo CMR flash will be necessary.
If you are going for street brawler low-mid Torque strength, a 392 from any of the vendors, based off the 5.7 block, with a good set of ported 5.7 heads and a smaller duration, tighter LSA cam (a Comp 260 or 268 would fit the bill, otherwise, talk to the vendors about it) would be ideal.
A 426 is fine too, no problem with the computer at all ...(might need to bump up a size of injector though), but most of the torque gain will be from the stroke, with the Displacement being helpful, but not the driving force...
so bang-for-buck it probably is better to do the 392, a comp 260 or 260, and the rest that could have gone for a 426 and put it in a 125 shot of giggly gas.
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