Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    Davesatdoasisbar's Avatar
    Davesatdoasisbar is offline Belly your cans up on to the Oasis Bar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    I just hope its not the place I die in.
    Posts
    3,175

    Starting issues any ideas

    You may have seen some of my threads lately on how my car has thrown a few codes but is running pretty damn strong - the one of the car making noises as it hits 2nd
    Ill skip allot of the nonessential points and comments at this time. Though more information may needed to help evaluate. I'm not hiding anything just trying to keep to short and to the point.

    I have recently had an Arrington 392 w/PPP stage 3 heads and cam - cam is either a track warrrior or a similar one but wilder. That is still be reviewed to confirm as it was also called the Nasty Cam. Installed and tuned by PPP. Many hours of tuning.

    Here is the problem on starting. Initially it was thought to be a warm start issue but have found it to be every subsequent start after the 1st start of the day. On a cold start crank it turns over and idles high and drops down after a few minutes to what the normal idle of what I have been experiencing- 9-950 RPM. This is the normal idle when runs warm also. No gas pedal assistance is required on this start up

    When car is warm and I try to start it again I crank the key and the tach only jumps to about 750 as it wants to turn over but it acts like it doesn't have enough gas and the tach drops and doesn't really move. When I try to start it again immediately and turn the key, the tach doesn't move and will continue to crank until I hold down the gas pedal. The car starts and from this point I watch the tach jump and blip the gas as the tach drops. You can feel how fast the idle is dropping. Sometimes this catches at the correct time and almost as if I am "setting" something. Other times the tach may jump up but as it drops it stalls, it won't catch itself-or I don't blip the throttle at the right time. So I have to repeat until I catch it correctly with the gas pedal. Most of the time you cannot feather the gas down to an idle then let off as it will stall most of the time, even if you hold the idle with gas at the correct idle for minute. It does work sometimes though.

    1st experiment
    So what I have tried is a cold start in the morning. It starts under its own. As soon as idle holds as it should I shut it down. I try to restart immediately and it takes the procedure as I do in the warm start above start it.
    So I waited 1/2 hr from initial start up but no change, waited 2 hrs same thing, no change, still have to do the follow up warm start up procedure.
    I have waited 4 hrs and no change.
    After each one of these test, if it did not start without gas assistance I did assist to start it. As to full cycle it if you were.

    2nd experiment - next day
    The only difference between 1 & 2 is that if it did not start on the initial start or subsequent non gas assisted tries I shut the key off and did not proceed to start it by gas pedal assistance. Just to see if that made a difference in the reset times for a cold start to work. IT DID NOT MAKE A DIF.

    So I did not have time to then wait 8 hrs-12hrs or whatever to see how long it would take to be on its "cold start" status again.

    In the last 10 days I have thrown 2 P2173 codes - actuator codes, (different days-different driving circumstances) Jeremy from PPP will be sending me a tune that may eliminate that.
    The other was a P0300. Miss fire. Something that I may continue to get from time to time but not be a problem.

    I talked to Jeremy about this tonight and he believes with the tuning time put into this that this problem may be one that is not fixable issue. He did mention that by raising the RPM on the car its possible it could eliminate that start problem. It was trade off of having a lower 9-950 idle or a high idle to what I dont' know but that possibly would eliminate the start problem.

    Though I am getting better at these start issues. I am concerned as it does not make it a family car where my wife could run off with the car and be confident she could get it restarted. It also makes it a no valet parking car.

    Any ideas? Anyone else hear of something similar or experience this with their set ups?

    Thanks
    Last edited by Davesatdoasisbar; 11-11-2008 at 08:28 AM.

  2. #2
    Davesatdoasisbar's Avatar
    Davesatdoasisbar is offline Belly your cans up on to the Oasis Bar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    I just hope its not the place I die in.
    Posts
    3,175
    for those who surf while driving home

  3. #3
    Popeye's Hemi's Avatar
    Popeye's Hemi is offline Retired US Coast Guard Engineering Chief
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eastern Shore of Maryland
    Posts
    1,584
    Have you tried to get the car to re-learn how to idle? I have read a few threads and they talk about teaching the car how to idle by starting the set the e-brake and put it drive for 20 minutes and 20 minutes more in reverse w/ e-brake on. This is after a cam swap and or head change, Only a guess friend.

    jeff
    6.4 Apache Heads, 6.1 SB, SRT-MAxx Cam, 6.1 Intake, 87mm TB Ported by MM, TTi Long Tubes and Mid pipes, Dyno-Max Ultra-Flow 3" Exhaust, LMI 4" CAI, Predator, BC Racing Suspension, Magnum front w/69 Cuda Grill inserts, Trufiber SRT8 hood, SLP 25% Under Drive Pulley, Zeitronix Wideband, Hotchkis Sway Bars, SPC Front/Rear Camber Kits, 3.06 GETRAG, Builder Bill Billet Stator 3200 TC, Flex-Plate & Valve Body, MTCM, Brembo brake set and Dyno Tuned by AJ Hemituner.


Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •