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  1. #1
    noesp's Avatar
    noesp is offline Maker of LX toys
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    NoESP's Coolit Fan Mod almost done - any last minute requests?

    OK, so I'm putting the finishing touches on the software for my fan mod, and before I install the prototype into my car, I'd like to see if I hit the mark on all a fan mod could offer.

    Here's the photo of the board again:

    Here's how it's set up to work right now:

    Press the ESP button 3 times (rapidly), and it goes into "Both Fans High" mode.

    Press the ESP button 4 times, and it goes into "Both fans Low" mode

    Press the ESP button 3 or 4 times when it's already in one of the forced ON modes listed above, and it will go into "Auto" mode. Upon entering this mode, both fans will pulse OFF/HIGH/OFF to indicate that the mode has been accepted. In this mode, Coolit uses the Coolant Temp Sensor to determine if the fans need to be on High, Low, or Off. The system is optimized for use with 180 degree thermostats.

    Press the ESP button 6 times, and it goes into "Full Off" mode. Upon entering this mode, the fans will pulse OFF/HIGH/OFF/HIGH/OFF to indicate that the mode has been accepted. This does not mean that the fans don't work, they just are controlled by the car's PCM, and the Coolit board will not intervene. This mode is good for flashing off contaminents, or when bringing the car in for service.

    In order not to have to push the button each time you start the car, Coolit will resume the last mode it was in when the car was last shut down. So if it was in "Auto" mode for example, it will stay in "Auto" mode indefinately, unless you tell it otherwise.

    The car's PCM signals to turn the fans on remain connected; so even if the Coolit Module power/ground goes bad, your fans will still be controlled by the stock PCM.

    When you press the ESP button to set the Coolit module to select a mode, you may end up with the ESP on or off... just wait 1 second and press the button again to put ESP in whatever mode you want it in. And no, it won't screw up your NoESP module!

    Soooooo..... Did I hit the mark??? Can you think of anything else a little fan mod could possibly do? The time to speak is now! I'm almost ready to say "I'm done"

    ... oh yeah, price. I will offer it in two flavors, as I mentioned once before.
    Coolit Auto - whch has all of the functions listed above will sell for $150
    Coolit Manual - which pulls out the Collant Temp Sensor function (manual control only (HIGH/LOW/OFF) will sell for $75
    TorRed Charger Daytona #1754
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  2. #2
    Biscuit's Avatar
    Biscuit is offline Cut me open and cover with butter!
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    Wow! Nicely done!
    2006 Chrysler 300 - Brilliant Black Pearl

  3. #3
    Northern Rider's Avatar
    Northern Rider is offline Move Over People Are Racing
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    Wow. Great product!

    As described, it does it for me.

    Never give the competition an inch

  4. #4
    Stumbo's Avatar
    Stumbo is offline LX Padiwan
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    Thats what I'm talking about!!!!!
    '07 CHARGER SRT8
    MODS: AFE STG2 intake, Magnaflow Midpipe, Bassani Catback, 180 Tstat,
    COMING SOON: Vortech SC, KWV2, Brembo GT
    Record 0-60: 4.48 seconds, bone stock, full tank of gas, hot engine.
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  5. #5
    Stumbo's Avatar
    Stumbo is offline LX Padiwan
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    BTW, whats the ETA on this bad boy? Looks like its exactly what I was waiting for.
    '07 CHARGER SRT8
    MODS: AFE STG2 intake, Magnaflow Midpipe, Bassani Catback, 180 Tstat,
    COMING SOON: Vortech SC, KWV2, Brembo GT
    Record 0-60: 4.48 seconds, bone stock, full tank of gas, hot engine.
    Record 1/4 mile: NA


  6. #6
    RobAGD's Avatar
    RobAGD is offline See ya in anotha life brotha

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    What are you looking at for temps for the Auto mode for on and off points ? Any way to add say a dip switch so that could be a user set points ?

    Looks good, you might want to look into sourcing out a pass through plug for the ESP button That way you can splice into that vs tapping wires and its remains removable without leaving a foot print.

    Very cool options though.

    -R

  7. #7
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    Will this work in conjunction with your original NoESP mod?
    2005 300c Deep Lava Red w/Dynatech Longtube Headers, High Flow Cats, 140112 Borla, SuperChips FlashPaq, Toyo Proxes S/T 255/50-18, 180ºF Thermostat, K&N Drop-in, and silencer removed = 13.682 @ 102.23mph

  8. #8
    maherm is offline LX Newbie
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    Count me in if it can be optimised for the 160 deg. thermostat
    It is very essential in our harsh hot weather (KUWAIT-Middle East)
    Thanks
    maherm
    Mineral Grey CSRT-8

  9. #9
    joseph's Avatar
    joseph is offline Banned
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    How about just a fan mod in auto mod for those of running 180 thermostats, I don't need all the high/lo fan controls, just want something to lower the temp at which the fans will engage to use with my 180 (like the GSM esp/fan mod)

  10. #10
    InferAl's Avatar
    InferAl is offline "R.I.P. Lou1355 "The Hellbitch lives On"
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    How and where will it be istalled and located
    2009 Challenger R/T PWR// Aluminum Big Bore 426..PWR// Apache Heads & Cam Installed By BFNY Performance
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  11. #11
    Todd RT's Avatar
    Todd RT is offline 05 Cool Vanilla Magnum RT
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    SWEET! Let me know if you need a beta tester in FL!!
    05 "Shagwagon" R/T
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    Hemi Registry #000514

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  12. #12
    FlyByU's Avatar
    FlyByU is offline MSHS
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    Im in, what time do you want me to come by today

  13. #13
    BMWDON's Avatar
    BMWDON is online now I-495 Hater
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    Quote Originally Posted by noesp View Post
    Coolit Manual - which pulls out the Collant Temp Sensor function (manual control only (HIGH/LOW/OFF) will sell for $75
    On the manual version, HIGH will be both fans on HIGH, LOW will be both fans on LOW and Off would be PCM controlled fans like normal? If that's the case, this is what I need, just want both fans on high when I'm at the track, otherwise, I'll let the PCM do the cooling. Product looks very professionally done man! I'm sure it'll be a good seller!
    -Bill

    Challenger Mods: PWR 393, Mean Street heads, Procharger D1 pushing 11+psi, SHR Nag1, DSS 1400 axles and drive shaft, SHR trans but with Paramount Dominator and stage2 valve body to finally be error code/limp mode free. BBS CH-R's and custom splitter with 2011 front spoiler. AAC SMD halos, 3K fog lights, white stripes, cervini wing, hotchkis springs, custom 10" sub w/ kicker amp, sequential tail lights.
    10.89 on Nitto Invo 315/35x20's @18psi in tires. 1.589 60' too! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeXYxSCI_8A

  14. #14
    Jaak's Avatar
    Jaak is offline Livin' the Mild Life in South Oakville.

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    I'd say low speed 3 presses, high speed 4.

    Low speed will do most of the time, and doesn't suck the same amount of current, loading the alternator, and sucking out the associated HP.

    The current difference between the two is enormous.

    Also, a visual indicator, even as an option, is useful. Can't hear the fans running when my engine is.

    You are turning on the fans throught the CAN bus, right? Oh wait, I see two relay drivers. Too bad... I was hoping.
    Last edited by Jaak; 04-17-2007 at 10:06 AM.
    2006 Magnum SRT8 - 11.85@117
    2007 SuperBee SRT8 - 12.21@117
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  15. #15
    noesp's Avatar
    noesp is offline Maker of LX toys
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    Let me see if I can answer all your questions at once:

    ETA: next week.

    Does require tapping into a couple wires, and cutting/splicing 2 wires.

    Installed under engine bay fuse/relay box. PCboard will be wrapped in heat shrink tubing, should make for a clean, neat installation. One wire goes to ABS controller (ESP button sense), one wire goes to Coolant Temp Sensor (next to air intake).

    NoESP sits under the radio bezel, while this board sits in engine area. Combining the two functions would require running wires through the firewall, and that's no fun.

    I can see that I'm already going to get requests for lower temps than 180. I'll offer 180, 170, and 160 versions. Same price. Lead time on the 170 and 160 might be slightly longer, since I'll have to reprogram them.

    Auto only? I guess, but without hooking up to the ESP button's wire, you'd have no way to disable it, so the PCM could take full control (like when you're bringing it in for service) And GSM's mod is just a switch and relay - no auto mode there. It only turns one fan on high

    High mode = both fans on high
    Low mode = both fans on low

    PCM can always still turn the fans on when it wants to also.
    TorRed Charger Daytona #1754
    Fully loaded
    NoESP, Coolit, tranZformer
    www.zautotech.com

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