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  1. #1
    SRT Brian is offline SRT Brian
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    Nitrous HELP!!!! Whats going on?

    Ok sooooo I was running my maggy with a 125 shot at the track last night I have a Zex WOT box on it and whats been happing is the box i dont think is working right, sometimes it will let me spray and it will work fine but other times I will just flip my nitrous arm switch at WOT and nonthing but at the track I staged and went then fliped my switch and it hit HARD sprayed PERFECT never has been better and then about 1/8 mile it would fill like som e one just turned off the bottle engine was running fine and then bam it would spray again. Im running about 1000PSI full bottle heater on. So I dont know if I started running lean? or what? the guy behind me said there was NO smoke or nonthing and it did it about 3 times would spray then turn off spray for a bit then turn off so Im thinking its that POS Zex box for some resion the volts are changing a big and its tricking the box to think the throttle is backing off. So what do you guys think? any input would be GREAT!!! Thanks Also I know my bottle is filled full and I checked for both fuel and nitrous in the pits I sprayed really fast with it unhooked from the CAI tube. And when ever it would stop spraying it wouldent fall on its face so Im pretty sure its cutting off both of my siliondes.

  2. #2
    formerice's Avatar
    formerice is offline LX Guru
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    I think you're right. I also think a 125 shot should be a 2 stage system unless you have better pistons. Set it up that you have control of the shot with a button, at 2500 hit with a 75 hp shot then between 3000 and 3500 hit her with another 50 hp shot . You need 2 button switches closely spaced together that you can easily touch with 2 fingers, arming switch can be in another location. This way YOU control the juice not some crappy window switch.Depending on traction the 2 stage will let you taylor things a bit. For example , hit with the 50 shot at 2500 or higher if you are breaking loose. Just a suggestion, but the button switch will put 100% control in your hands not some crappy window switch. Never hit the juice under 2500 rpms , 2800 even safer. You will need good reflexes as 2500 - 2800 rpm in first comes up pretty damned quick ans hitting the second stage at 3500 in first will be right now! You should be running a 87 octane tune and better gas, like 101 unleaded with a 125 shot also imho.
    Rockinsrt8's CocoBolo Pistol Grip Shifter, Gina's Orange R/T Leather Console Cover, BT pedal covers, FRI Sidewinder cam, Dynatec Headers , gutted cats , Borla125 Catback, Air Hammer, Dynamic Grounding Cables,TDP - CMR tune, Pedders bushings, Police Pack Oil Cooler, SRT 8 Struts and Nivo's ,Hotchkis sway bars,100 hp shot Nitrous Express, 402.5 RWHP 453 Ft Lbs Tq, 240,000 miles, 20"SRT8 Forged Alcoas, Nitto NT555's ---- 1/8th mile 7.707 sec /90.19 mph -- 05 QC4X4 Ram and 99 Jeep GC . Never Trust a Fart

  3. #3
    SRT Brian is offline SRT Brian
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    OOO I forgot to tell you tho man Im running a SRT8 6.1 So I have forged pistions. I tryed the two stage system and my Zex box isent a window switch, its just a box that even when I have my master arm switch on It wont spray tell its WOT and then as soon as I back off it will turn off the nitrous. I just think this box isent working wright.

  4. #4
    formerice's Avatar
    formerice is offline LX Guru
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    Ok, but the SRT8's still have hyperutetic pistons I believe. I think that 125 hp is close to the edge even for a 6.1 unless you have filed the end gap on your top piston rings to allow the rings to expand without destroying them. A 2 stage system will hit easier than what you have. IMHO those windo switches are for the birds, but I'm an old fart. It sound like yours is screwing up. I still like the control that a totally manual system gives you. If I blow up my motor I want to have it be my fault than some Chinese made crappy switch. If you actually have forged pistons, then 125 would be very safe. I think that Zex window switch is causing the problem.
    Rockinsrt8's CocoBolo Pistol Grip Shifter, Gina's Orange R/T Leather Console Cover, BT pedal covers, FRI Sidewinder cam, Dynatec Headers , gutted cats , Borla125 Catback, Air Hammer, Dynamic Grounding Cables,TDP - CMR tune, Pedders bushings, Police Pack Oil Cooler, SRT 8 Struts and Nivo's ,Hotchkis sway bars,100 hp shot Nitrous Express, 402.5 RWHP 453 Ft Lbs Tq, 240,000 miles, 20"SRT8 Forged Alcoas, Nitto NT555's ---- 1/8th mile 7.707 sec /90.19 mph -- 05 QC4X4 Ram and 99 Jeep GC . Never Trust a Fart

  5. #5
    Bo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by formerice View Post
    Ok, but the SRT8's still have hyperutetic pistons I believe. I think that 125 hp is close to the edge even for a 6.1 unless you have filed the end gap on your top piston rings to allow the rings to expand without destroying them. A 2 stage system will hit easier than what you have. IMHO those windo switches are for the birds, but I'm an old fart. It sound like yours is screwing up. I still like the control that a totally manual system gives you. If I blow up my motor I want to have it be my fault than some Chinese made crappy switch. If you actually have forged pistons, then 125 would be very safe. I think that Zex window switch is causing the problem.
    The ZEX TPS switch is about as simple as they come.... not likely to work intermittently (unless the programming is bad)....... I'm guessing the issue is elsewhere. A voltmeter inside the car connected to the ZEX box could give you the answer for sure.
    And you know..... I'm not a fan of anything over a 100 shot on these cars without a direct port system..... it is a motor disaster waiting to happen!

    --Bo

  6. #6
    RandomAccess's Avatar
    RandomAccess is offline What part should we make next???

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    Are you using the 82177 kit for the LX's? or the generic Kit?

    If so... are you using that resistor that comes with it?

    I suggest you just cut that thing out... Why? It's a resistor is intended for a circuit board that is just soldered to a little wire and heat shrinked... It has hard metal wires at either end that easily break if there is any movement in the wire. Mine broke on both sides of the resistor within the heat shrink... making contact SOME of the time....

    That might be your inconsistency.

    They give it to you to prevent a CEL... Which I don't get. So I cut the thing out.


    Second thing to check... Make sure you are programming with key on... and holding the throttle blade open manually... Revving it up with the engine started isn't gonna get a consistent 10 second reading that zex recommends.

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  7. #7
    Bo's Avatar
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    Not the complete ZEX kit..... actually a Cold Fusion with the ZEX TPS switch...... no resistor needed with the TPS switch......

    --Bo


    Quote Originally Posted by RandomAccess View Post
    Are you using the 82177 kit for the LX's? or the generic Kit?

    If so... are you using that resistor that comes with it?

    I suggest you just cut that thing out... Why? It's a resistor is intended for a circuit board that is just soldered to a little wire and heat shrinked... It has hard metal wires at either end that easily break if there is any movement in the wire. Mine broke on both sides of the resistor within the heat shrink... making contact SOME of the time....

    That might be your inconsistency.

    They give it to you to prevent a CEL... Which I don't get. So I cut the thing out.


    Second thing to check... Make sure you are programming with key on... and holding the throttle blade open manually... Revving it up with the engine started isn't gonna get a consistent 10 second reading that zex recommends.

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