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  1. #1
    srt007 is online now LX Guru
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    modern muscle fuel system issue!!

    well here go's, over at the plug that sits directly on the fuel hat that powers the pumps i had fuel coming out through the plug i was in shock i was trying to see what caused this and i find a hole right under one of the pins that comes out of the hat with burnt marks around it. i noticed that the wires are gettin extremely hot so i think at the wire heating up so much it melted a hole at the pin all the way thru the hat, its a little bigger than a pin hole sized but enough for a big fuel leak.some have claimed that the system can be used with the stock wiring that is not correct. i since then gone with what another member here suggested i do (351freak),which is wire the pumps up directly to the battery with a relay and use the oem power wire as the trigger for the relay this allows the right amount of power to drive the pumps and use the correct size wiring for the pumps.

    anyone else have this issue?

  2. #2
    Super T's Avatar
    Super T is offline Speed on... Hell ain't half full
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    if it is an electrical issue, then you wired something wrong. Call them tomorrow.


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  3. #3
    Cam's Avatar
    Cam
    Cam is offline cam@crankthisperformance. com
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    Quote Originally Posted by Super T View Post
    if it is an electrical issue, then you wired something wrong. Call them tomorrow.
    I disagree. The stock wiring is no were near rated for the amount of current being drawn through it with some of the BP designs I've seen. I can't speak for the MM set-up, but I doubt it's much different.
    From wild to extra wild we got you covered with crap ya never knew you needed.





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  4. #4
    srt007 is online now LX Guru
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    Quote Originally Posted by Super T View Post
    if it is an electrical issue, then you wired something wrong. Call them tomorrow.



    theres no wiring involved its plug and play for the electrical. somewhere on a thread on here i think someone from modern muscle said that the oem wiring can take it

  5. #5
    srt007 is online now LX Guru
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    no need to call i fixed it already,351freak showed me a way that would work and it did its actually the same way i have one of my imports wired up i just didnt go that route cause i was initially told it was ok on the oem wiring

  6. #6
    HEMI~C~'s Avatar
    HEMI~C~ is offline Ahhh..blown, stroked and injected!
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    The electrical connector in the factory style hat is completely inadequate for running the extra juice required for two pumps. Even upgrading the wiring on both side of the pump will not fix this. I ran into the same exact issue....upgraded the wiring on both sides of the fuel hat and still saw the metal connector getting extremely hot. The metal conductor in the fuel hat definitely gets hot enough to melt the plastic fuel hat.

    The solution is like 351Freak suggested, dedicated wires running through a purpose built connector or brass posts (in my case) to pass the extra current safely through the hat.
    Stupid Nasty.... 9.59 @ 148
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  7. #7
    Trojan's Avatar
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    Great info! Were doing my Fore Hat as we speak using 8 gauge Amp wire!


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  8. #8
    srt007 is online now LX Guru
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trojan View Post
    Great info! Were doing my Fore Hat as we speak using 8 gauge Amp wire!


    sweeet yeah ive been waiting for the results on that fore billet hat.when your done post some pics if u can id like to see how this works out

  9. #9
    GasGunR's Avatar
    GasGunR is offline 2006 Mag SRT Owner
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    This sounds like a big deal. You should cal their shop and let them know. Someone could very possibly lose their car or worse if the car is in a garage or if it lights off vapors in the tank while they are in the car!
    2006 MSRT8 in Brilliant Black, Options I,II,III, Sunroof and Sideairbags, Free Auto On Headlight Mod, Headlights on wth wipers, Highbeams on with Fog Lights, Hacked Nav, MOPAR Remote Start, BLACKEND I-Pass, Tailgate Plugs, 20% Tint Side Front Windows, Smoke LED Tailights, Airhammer CAI, Kooks LoKo Coated headers, Hi-Flow Cats, JBA 3" Cat Back, eibach sways. Fri Ported Intake, Fri Street Heads, Fri Littleboy Cam, P.I. 2800 Stall Converter, Custom Autometer 5 gauge over the visor pod, B.T. 65 Standard Hurst Shift conversion, TommyZ Hood S.N. 2. 180 degree T-Stat, BT Ported TB.

  10. #10
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    STREET LIFE R/T is offline Maryland's only Wide body Charger!
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    Quote Originally Posted by srt007 View Post
    well here go's, over at the plug that sits directly on the fuel hat that powers the pumps i had fuel coming out through the plug i was in shock i was trying to see what caused this and i find a hole right under one of the pins that comes out of the hat with burnt marks around it. i noticed that the wires are gettin extremely hot so i think at the wire heating up so much it melted a hole at the pin all the way thru the hat, its a little bigger than a pin hole sized but enough for a big fuel leak.some have claimed that the system can be used with the stock wiring that is not correct. i since then gone with what another member here suggested i do (351freak),which is wire the pumps up directly to the battery with a relay and use the oem power wire as the trigger for the relay this allows the right amount of power to drive the pumps and use the correct size wiring for the pumps.

    anyone else have this issue?
    This is the way I was thinking about setting up my pumps.....I guess this is a good idea.
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  11. #11
    351Freak is offline Supporting Vendor and Enthusiast
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    Yeah...

    I'm just waiting for a Kenne Bell Blower car to go up in flames cuz the "stock wires handle 20+ volts...just fine"...

    It's just a matter of time...and I don't want to be around when it happens...

    That metal strip in the connector is essentially becoming a heat strip element with that much current passing thru it...and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that this is a BAD idea inside a fuel tank...

    Hemi~C and I were talking about this today...

    A brass screw with a sealing o-ring going from inside the tank-out with another o-ring and nut on it on the outside would probably make a good electrical bulkhead...I think the correct o-ring material to use is Viton...

    -Freak

  12. #12
    GasGunR's Avatar
    GasGunR is offline 2006 Mag SRT Owner
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    One morning in the dark on a long commute to Milwaukee, I saw a HUGE fireball off to my right from the interstate... Turned out it was an Air Force KC-135 tanker at Mitchell Field, (Milwaukee Airport)... some frayed wires in a fuel tank and the plane blew up!

    Kerosene is ALOT harder to ignite than gasoline. Someone needs to take some action here. This thread is a good start, but only the shop knows who the customers are.

    If its being taken care of and notification has been sent out, for pete's sake, say something so the rest of us can quit worrying.
    2006 MSRT8 in Brilliant Black, Options I,II,III, Sunroof and Sideairbags, Free Auto On Headlight Mod, Headlights on wth wipers, Highbeams on with Fog Lights, Hacked Nav, MOPAR Remote Start, BLACKEND I-Pass, Tailgate Plugs, 20% Tint Side Front Windows, Smoke LED Tailights, Airhammer CAI, Kooks LoKo Coated headers, Hi-Flow Cats, JBA 3" Cat Back, eibach sways. Fri Ported Intake, Fri Street Heads, Fri Littleboy Cam, P.I. 2800 Stall Converter, Custom Autometer 5 gauge over the visor pod, B.T. 65 Standard Hurst Shift conversion, TommyZ Hood S.N. 2. 180 degree T-Stat, BT Ported TB.

  13. #13
    SRT8U's Avatar
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    Has anyone brought this to the attection of MM?
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  14. #14
    GasGunR's Avatar
    GasGunR is offline 2006 Mag SRT Owner
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    I just pm'd a link to the thread to johnparts... would have thought the OP contacted them already.
    2006 MSRT8 in Brilliant Black, Options I,II,III, Sunroof and Sideairbags, Free Auto On Headlight Mod, Headlights on wth wipers, Highbeams on with Fog Lights, Hacked Nav, MOPAR Remote Start, BLACKEND I-Pass, Tailgate Plugs, 20% Tint Side Front Windows, Smoke LED Tailights, Airhammer CAI, Kooks LoKo Coated headers, Hi-Flow Cats, JBA 3" Cat Back, eibach sways. Fri Ported Intake, Fri Street Heads, Fri Littleboy Cam, P.I. 2800 Stall Converter, Custom Autometer 5 gauge over the visor pod, B.T. 65 Standard Hurst Shift conversion, TommyZ Hood S.N. 2. 180 degree T-Stat, BT Ported TB.

  15. #15
    1FST4DR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 351Freak View Post
    Yeah...

    I'm just waiting for a Kenne Bell Blower car to go up in flames cuz the "stock wires handle 20+ volts...just fine"...

    It's just a matter of time...and I don't want to be around when it happens...

    That metal strip in the connector is essentially becoming a heat strip element with that much current passing thru it...and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that this is a BAD idea inside a fuel tank...

    Hemi~C and I were talking about this today...

    A brass screw with a sealing o-ring going from inside the tank-out with another o-ring and nut on it on the outside would probably make a good electrical bulkhead...I think the correct o-ring material to use is Viton...

    -Freak
    FYI You can this from mcmaster carr no problem..

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