HHP Stage 1 Cam on the way....questions...

[ADAMnQuick300C]

So my HHP Stage 1 Cam on the way....and I have a couple questions:

1st, regarding the install, I wish I was closer to Hemi31 since his install price is so good and he has experience but my local shop here in NJ that specializes in Subaru's is going to install the cam for me for $500, I trust them, did great work on my Subie and he's confident this won't be a problem...

* Other than the cam itself are there any other things I'm going to need to replace like seals, gaskets, etc?

2nd, has anyone done a cam install without upgrading intake/full exhaust? Right now my car is stock with the exception of the HHP hi-flow cats, which I heard were a bottleneck, the SC Flashpaq and a 176 degree thermostat. I'd rather not add noise just for the sake of adding noise (and maybe picking up a couple HP at 6k).

I love sleepers and want to see how quick I can get the car w/o all the drama of a loud exhaust, not to mention it's my opinion that some backpressure is good on an all motor setup (I prefer low-mid range torque over top end any day). Does anyone have any thoughts or proof of how retaining stock mufflers/resonators will really hurt my performance?

Thanks!

-Adam

[lafrad]

I would suggest that you upgrade the stock valvesprings too. Those are shown to give a bit more power due to reducing any valve float that the engine sees with the faster ramp angles.

Go to your local dodge dealer and order a Crankshaft Pully Bolt, and Camshaft pully bolt. They will only run ya a couple dollars, (literally) and they will prevent any headaches you have in the future... Beast 2 suggests this, along with everyone else that does installs.

You should be *OK* with that cam on stock "other stuff". The high flow cats would be the best upgrade to do, and you have done them.
I would also suggest an AirHammer. it really is unbelievable how good that intake is... easily the cheapest "OMG" mod you can do, as throttle response is MUCH quicker with it installed...

[GasGunR]

$500 is cheap.

You won't need any gaskets, but they will need a little Silicone for the bottom corners of the front cover.

[Guest]

You'll be fine without any upgrades as the custom grind HHP uses makes for a smooth idling cam. It will break in around 1,000 miles or so and you'll detect a slight lope.

I would suggest using headers just to free up some backpressure really. I also agree with Mike... upgrading the valvesprings (even to stock 6.1 springs) is cheap insurance. You're already getting off insanely cheap on the install (typical cam instal is around $1500) so drop $50 or so on the springs.

[bklynmag]

I had a similar set up to what you prior to installing my Frank Racing Sidewinder cam (shouldn't be too different from the stage 1) and heads. I also had high flow cats and stock muffler/exhaust manifolds.

Two weeks after I installed a set of JBA shorty headers and it made a noticeable difference. They are shorties as well so I felt a bump in low end torgue as opposed to the typical loss on the bottom from long-tube headers. The car is not much louder with them either (unless you floor it). It was a concern for me and I am pleased with them.

I am sure your Subaru guy is good but consider calling Hemi31. I am in Brooklyn so the distance was a consideration as well but it really is not that far and it is well worth the peace of mind knowing it will be done right. There are some minor items specific to these motors that could be a PITA if not seen before.

[MomsR/T]

$500 is far too cheap...........

Heads should come off and valve SPRINGS replaced on a bench...........I would also use the stock SRT8 valve SPRINGS.

This is very very hard to do with the heads on the car............

Due to removing heads, I would replace the headers at the same time (no more effort in doing so)

Install kit should be - head bolts, head gaskets, and crank bolt

That crank bolt is an IMPORTANT piece.......................do not try this without it!

Please make sure you download the PROPER tming mark locations for him...................easy to mess up.

Best of luck!

[bklynmag]

You mean valve springs . . . .right?

[MomsR/T]

You mean valve springs . . . .right?

oppppps; corrected!

[ADAMnQuick300C]

$500 is far too cheap...........

Heads should come off and valve SPRINGS replaced on a bench...........I would also use the stock SRT8 valve SPRINGS.

This is very very hard to do with the heads on the car............

Due to removing heads, I would replace the headers at the same time (no more effort in doing so)

Install kit should be - head bolts, head gaskets, and crank bolt

That crank bolt is an IMPORTANT piece.......................do not try this without it!

Please make sure you download the PROPER tming mark locations for him...................easy to mess up.

Best of luck!

Thank you all for the input, I will pass it along to the installer.

I'm getting a good deal on the install because I've saved him a few thousand dollars on the IT equipment he's purchased from me, so I guess it's his way of helping me out...

Anyway I spoke with HHP about the valve springs when I was pricing their installation and they said that with the stage 1 cam it's not neccessary...but if they're going to have to remove the heads anyway I will definitely have them install springs, etc

[MomsR/T]

I can't comment on their recommendation because I don't know what their specs are or what it is..............

I can tell you that the factory 5.7 spring is very very weak...........

HEMI~C~ did some interesting testing on a Comp 260 w/ stock springs and made a significant improvement on HP above the 4800 rpm range due to the addition of an improved spring.

My partner Steve (gremlinsteve) or Stu (392Stu) could prob give you the open/closed seat pressures of the stock 5.7 spring right off the top of their head..................but they were silly weak.

I don't fear the spring breaking as much as I fear it being lazy and costing hp at the top of the RPM band.................

These are just oppinions.................and they are oppinions without all the facts....................I would follow HHP's recommendations and cautions versus listening to too many people.

[hyperbolic]

I've got the Borla 4 muffler and it doesn't sound much louder than stock and it was worth a 0.1 at the strip (@10HP). Not the cheapest 10HP at $750 but it was an improvement. Gibson shorty headers were worth the same 0.1 reduction at @$600 if I remember correctly. SuperChip flashpack was good for a 0.2 reduction in ET at a third of the price of the headers and catback. The AFE or AirHammer CAIs are good for @7HP. For half the cost, the cam should give you about the same HP boost as all four of the mods I mentioned combined. Those are solid gains in performance, and not the couple of HP at high RPM that you mentioned (I run to the stock shift points). I'm not sure, but the cam may like to rev higher then stock to get the max gain. If your budget allows I'd get them all.

Hope you get some before and after ETs. That's my measure of performance and I'm thinking about a cam swap myself.

Looking forward to reading about your experience with this mod.