Thanks guys ... specially Legmaker , tomorrow am going to mechanic to see whats going on with the fuel pump and go back to you as soon
as i have any solution
This is what I used when i replace my pump, didn't want to do the screwdriver and hammer.
Miller Fuel Pump Lock Ring Wrench PT Durango Liberty 9340 | eBay
Magnesium Magnum RT AWD
Hood struts, Glove box light, DRL, debadged, Side moldings removed, Blinker mod, E&G Grill, SXT headlights, Borla exhaust, AVIC-Z120BT & reverse cam, Spoiler paint match, Mopar Performance Strut Tower Brace, Airaid CAI, Billet Tech Eng dressing, 180 T-Stat, Police Oil Cooler, BCR Coilovers, Dabears2k Reverse HIDs, SPC 1.50 bushings, Fuse box cover paint match, Radiator cowl paint match, Radiator reservoir paint match
06 MSRT8: HHP Stage 2 Cam, SP Stage 2 Heads, 2800 Protorque Converter, Stage 2 Indy Ported Intake Manifold, Arrington 90mm Throttle body, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Custom Catback, AFE stage 2 CAI, Mopar TCM, BT Catch Can. SOLD
I'm too dumb to do things the easy way.
HMMM,ME GET THAT STUPID RING OFF!!!
INTAKE MADE BY CRISS
WHIPPLE 2.9L TWIN SCREW WITH DIRECT PORT N20 ACTION BABY
393 BUILT BY TROY DING WITH LOVE
Sent from My HP laptop while taking a crap.
fuel smell - you have crappy lines
faulty acting sending unit - either pass side connection is bad/loose or you floater is getting caught onto the crossover. you will need to bend the arm towards the front of the car for clearnace
When I did the Arrington fuel hat upgrade & Speedlogix fuel lines, the fuel smells start as the OP pointed. I will be happy to fix this due I am tired to checking for leakings without success. Somebody point the rubber lines are not smell proof.
I was suffering the same cranking problem for months. A simple tune update fixes it! It seems the extra fuel was the problem for long cranking time. Now, it always starts on 2 or 3 seconds cranking, almost as before the upgrade.
if your setup is actually not leaking, then its just the smell bleeding throught the lines. i think someone sold extensions from the hat to connect to the lines outside the car to help with the smell. what lines do you use?
and as for the cranking problem, a tune cant fix that. on a return setup when the pumps are off, the fuel drains out and theres no pressure. when you go to crank it, if theres no fuel already there, it wont fire up till its there. when you turn the key and wait 2-3sec, you will hear the pumps start and pressurize the system then cut off. i just turn the key till everything is about to shut off then crank it.
This appears to be a chronic issue with the Fore fuel hat and may be an installation issue these Mopars. I had the very same problem with fuel smell and fuel guage not reading accurately. I had Arrington install the Redhorse Racing fuel lines and return but had the smell issue anyway. Also had the start issue. For the smell I just live with it. For the fuel guage, my issue was as described by Legmaker, the sending unit was replaced. In regard to the start issue, I upgraded the electrical grounds for the battery and tranny and installed a new battery. I also wait a few seconds to crank the motor. Based on what I read, there are commmon issues to all of these builds and the remedies have been addressed by folks that have found solutions that seem to work. Beans to all that responded with advice.
Rubber/stainless lines. I will search who offer the hard lines replace the inside the car rubber lines and see what happen.
I already have Stainless/rubber lines and still smell fuel inside the car everyday i go work in the morning ! so my solution is to keep sun roof open and one of the rear windows in the garage !
the smell seems to permeate the rubber lines, regardless if you have the ss braid around it like I do. I'm guessing you'ld have to upgrade to the poly fuel lines, or is it some kind of hard silicone. I've looked it up before and now I can't recall the material its made from. I think it was a opaque/whiteish color.
Challenger Mods: PWR 393, Mean Street heads, Procharger D1 pushing 11+psi, SHR Nag1, DSS 1400 axles and drive shaft, SHR trans but with Paramount Dominator and stage2 valve body to finally be error code/limp mode free. BBS CH-R's and custom splitter with 2011 front spoiler. AAC SMD halos, 3K fog lights, white stripes, cervini wing, hotchkis springs, custom 10" sub w/ kicker amp, sequential tail lights.
2009 Dodge Challenger SRT8 Procharger D1 Supercharger: 10.895 @ 126.720 MPH
Getting ready to tackle this install and sounds to be a beeyotch of fun. Where is a good place to get all the fitting and lines and parts ? I will be running a reg. and double pumps return style setup. Is there a write somewhere ?