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  1. #1
    JOKERCANTSMOKE-EM's Avatar
    JOKERCANTSMOKE-EM is offline If you gotta go.....go with a SMILE
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    engine build opinions.

    Trying to get opinions on rebuilding my 5.7. It doesnt need it but I would like to bump up the torque a lil bit and have the satisfaction of knowing I have a fresh powerplant. Basically looking for any tips or tricks you guys might of picked up from doing yours already, My other guidelines are that I would like to be around 400ft lb trq to wheels and I would like the motor to be able to handle 175hp shot of nitrous...thanks in advance guys.
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  2. #2
    R/Tmatt's Avatar
    R/Tmatt is offline LX Padiwan
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    i think a nice cam and heads package will do just fine for your likings
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  3. #3
    05silvhemimag's Avatar
    05silvhemimag is offline speedjunkie
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    not to many forged bottom ends that are stock boar and crank, so 392 if your going to rebuild it. with heads and cam.... about 5 gs prob

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  4. #4
    torque addict is offline LX Padiwan
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    It all depends, what is the milage on it now? If not to high, then i think the h/c is indeed what ur looking for, let ur builder know u'll be spraying that much and im sure he'll put in the best h/c to go along with ur juice!! Good luck to you!!
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  5. #5
    JOKERCANTSMOKE-EM's Avatar
    JOKERCANTSMOKE-EM is offline If you gotta go.....go with a SMILE
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    100K on the car right now, it runs like a champ!!! no problems at all. I guess my twisted mind was thinking since I dont have to do a hemi swap anymore then It would be nice to do an engine rebuild. Im for sure going to repaint it, and maybe do a set of wheels but other than that the only other thing I would consider as a MAJOR project for the winter is air ride. I know I like a good lope to the cam, but right now thats about it. Only other question I had for guys was kinda what they had in there motors for basic builds like this?? You think 5K is average???

  6. #6
    richierevs's Avatar
    richierevs is online now I Need DRs Really Bad....
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    Since I'm going through an engine rebuild now, a lot of this is fresh in my mind.

    Doing power adders will require that the short block is beefed up. You don't necessarily need to build a stroker to benefit from forged parts. So let's begin there. You'll need a forged crank, billet forged connecting rods and forged pistons. The piston rings will need to be gapped to handle the extra heat generated from nitrous. The heads need to ported and milled .030. Milling will increase compression. The valve springs will need to updated and you'll need shorted pushrods for the milled heads. There are a lot of good options on cams: PPP, FRI and HHP are all solid performers. You'll need the Crower adjustable cam timing kit to create more bottom end torque. You may want to conside a 6.1L intake manifold to take advantage of larger TBs. The fuel rails will also need to upgraded.

    For additional torque, a Paramount Flexplate and Paramount/Protorque 2nd gen TC with a Paramount valve body.

    And a new tune, done by someone who works extensively with nitrous.

    There's other stuff too, but that'll get you started.
    Last edited by richierevs; 09-26-2009 at 08:18 AM.

  7. #7
    dudeiwin86's Avatar
    dudeiwin86 is offline Dude...
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    build a 5.7 based 392 stroker.
    have it built with 11:1 compression.

    a base shortblock without any fancy upgrades will cost you at LEAST 4100 bucks.
    however, you also need a new cam which is another 400.
    are you planning on running stock heads? you really should upgrade them to match your motor.
    budget another 1700 for heads.

    youre looking at at least 6200 for an average long block. with no upgrades (ARP studs or coatings)
    budget another 450-600 for a really good tune
    and another 1000-1500 for install unless youre doing it yourself.

    you might as well do a torque converter with the motor pulled out because it will literally drop right in, and it will make it easier to idle and tune a large cam.
    so add another 595

    (shortblock = block + rods + crank + pisons, all assembled)
    (long block = shortblock + heads + cam, all assembled)

    just remember, if you want to run nitrous, get it at 11:1 compression

    yu can easily grind a cam for the motor to make 450hp/450 rwhp in the motor, or you can bias it towards torque and go for a cam that will make 480rwtq and maybe 435 rwhp. or bias it the other way.

    send me a PM if you have any questions.

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  8. #8
    JOKERCANTSMOKE-EM's Avatar
    JOKERCANTSMOKE-EM is offline If you gotta go.....go with a SMILE
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    DUDE/RICH thanks for some great tips!

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