coolant flush

[MR. WONKA]

Any one have a step by step method of a coolant flush on a 5.7L? And for that matter where is the cap to the radiator. I know where there cap for the over flow is but where is the radiator cap? Pictures would be great. I am a visual learner.

[fnkychkn]

there is no cap on the radiator and the bottle is a combination pressure tank/overflow.

seeing as you have an AWD, i would suggest you get it flushed by a flushing machine. block drain access is rather nasty on AWD models.

this is what we use: http://www.bgfindashop.com/bgservices/cooling.htm

[Hal'sMag]

After installing stage 1 cam/heads/shorties/high flows, AND

Max duty radiator, trans. cooler, police oil cooler, AND update to latest PCM flash with the addition of 9r08 -
I've been running 10+F hotter than with the stock radiator system. Thats about 1000 miles ago.

Just found cottage cheese in the reservoir and the dreaded ammonia smell.

Is this a first for a 5.7?
Could it be due to the radiator? Could it be something wrong with the head gasket install?

Car runs strong in it's second round of CMR tuning. No oil/water interface.

Surely needs a flush, and maybe change from the MOPAR fluid to ???

The TSB only covers 3.6 and 6.1 engines.

So what's different?

I was just getting ready to tear this thing down again. I can easily hit 212F with a 4127 thermo or 4128, with both fans on high and 30% throttle up a hill - and ambient @ 90F.
I'm hoping (and praying) that the coolant is the problem. It was replaced with new MOPAR fluid and distilled water mix during the build.

[dudeiwin86]

the police oil cooler can increase temps because it uses your radiator to cool. i see you upgraded the rad.. but i dont know if it overcompensates for this or not.

remote radiator for the trans cooler or using the stock rad too?

[Popeye's Hemi]

Hal Mag,

I'm getting ready to install a spartan cam, 6.1 valve springs and custom push rods. I will be pulling the heads ( 05 300C 5.7 ) she's got 90K miles and has never had the radiator serviced. My question is did you notice any crud in the rad or cooling passages in the heads? I have read a few threads on cam installs and they talk about the crud or mayo in the cooling system but only on 6.1 hemi's. There is an additive that can be used, they say. I have bought Zerex ( Valvoline ) G-05 5 year/150K. I dont plan to flush my system because I dont think I can get all the system flush out. And the flush chemical may adversly affect the new coolant.

[Popeye's Hemi]

The following is right out of the 05 Service manual. Capacities are liters/quarts.


COOLANT LEVEL CHECK
Note: Do not remove radiator cap for routine coolant
level inspections. The coolant level can be
checked at coolant recovery bottle (2).
The coolant reserve/overflow system provides a quick
method for determining coolant level. With engine not
running, the coolant level should be between ADD and
FULL marks (3). If the coolant level is at or below the
ADD mark, fill the recovery bottle with a 50/50 mixture
of antifreeze and water ONE QUART AT A TIME.
Repeat this procedure until the coolant level is at the
FULL mark.
COOLING SYSTEM CLEANING/REVERSE FLUSHING
CLEANING
Drain cooling system and refill with water. Run engine with radiator cap installed until upper radiator hose is hot.
Stop engine and drain water from system. If water is dirty, fill system with water, run engine and drain system.
Repeat until water drains clean.
REVERSE FLUSHING
Reverse flushing of cooling system is the forcing of water through the cooling system. This is done using air pressure
in the opposite direction of normal coolant flow. It is usually only necessary with very dirty systems with evidence
of partial plugging.
REVERSE FLUSHING RADIATOR
Disconnect radiator hoses from radiator inlet and outlet. Attach a section of radiator hose to radiator bottom outlet
fitting and insert flushing gun. Connect a water supply hose and air supply hose to flushing gun.
CAUTION: Internal radiator pressure must not exceed 138 kPa (20 psi) as damage to radiator may result.
Allow radiator to fill with water. When radiator is filled, apply air in short blasts. Allow radiator to refill between blasts.
Continue this reverse flushing until clean water flows out through rear of radiator cooling tube passages. Have radiator
cleaned more extensively by a radiator repair shop.
REVERSE FLUSHING ENGINE
Drain cooling system. Remove thermostat housing and thermostat. Install thermostat housing. Disconnect radiator
upper hose from radiator and attach flushing gun to hose. Disconnect radiator lower hose from water pump and
attach a lead-away hose to water pump inlet fitting.
CAUTION: On vehicles equipped with a heater water control valve, be sure heater control valve is closed
(heat off). This will prevent coolant flow with scale and other deposits from entering heater core.
Connect water supply hose and air supply hose to flushing gun. Allow engine to fill with water. When engine is filled,
apply air in short blasts, allowing system to fill between air blasts. Continue until clean water flows through the lead
away hose.
7 - 16 COOLING LX
Remove lead away hose, flushing gun, water supply hose and air supply hose. Remove thermostat housing and
install thermostat. Install thermostat housing with a replacement gasket. Refer to Thermostat Replacement. Connect
radiator hoses. Refill cooling system with correct antifreeze/water mixture. Refer to Refilling the Cooling System.
CHEMICAL CLEANING
In some instances, use a radiator cleaner (Mopar Radiator Kleen or equivalent) before flushing. This will soften
scale and other deposits and aid flushing operation.
CAUTION: Follow manufacturers instructions when using these products.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Automatic Belt Tensioner to Block - Bolts 54 40 -
Block Heater - Bolt 2 - 17
Generator/Compressor Mounting Bracket - Bolts -
No. 1 and No.2 54 40 -
No. 3 40 30 -
Fan Shroud Mounting - Bolts 6 - 50
Fan Blade to Fan Drive - Bolts 23 17 -
Idler Pulley - Bolt - 5.7L 54 40 -
Idler Pulley - Bolt - 2.7L’3.5L 28 - 250
Radiator to Support - Bolts 23 - 200
Thermostat Housing - Bolts - 2.7L/3.5L 11.8 - 105
Housing - Coolant Outlet 11.8 - 105
Heater Supply Tube 3.4 - 30
Thermostat Housing - Bolts - 5.7L 13 - 112
Transmission Auxiliary Oil Cooler - Bolts 10 - 90
Upper Radiator Closure Panel - Bolts 10 - 90
Water Pump - Bolts - 2.7L/3.5L 11.8 - 105
Water Pump - Bolts - 5.7L 28 20 -
FILL VOLUMES
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
2.7L 9 9.5
3.5L 9.75 10.3
5.7L 13.3 14.05

[Hal'sMag]

I had 16,500 on the car when I tore it down, and no crud at all. The fluid in the tank was clean. Nothing in the passages either. I pulled the block drains too, so I didn't have a mess around my heads when pulled.

The stock rad is clean as can be - just the slight film you'll see on a thermostat change.
It appears the 5.7 did not have the crud problem.

So I add the police oil cooler, which does bypass some water going to the rad return (but I pinched it off to check if it was the problem). It probably keeps the oil out of extremes, but I'm not impressed with it. I'll be stacking a second oil cooler before summer.

The Max duty rad appeared to be the same material as the stock.
And I used Mother Mopars coolant with a 50/50 dilution with distilled, prior to filling the system.
Why I got the 6.1 crud now is beyond me. After about 1000 miles.
Why the 6.1 and 3.6 get it, and not the 5.7 is also beyond me - but my 5.7 gots it now!

Maybe Pete can shed some light on this.

You may want to get the additive from Mopar and add it at the time you refill the system.

Funny thing is, I was running 10 F hotter with the fans needing to work allot, right after the build, and wouldn't think I had instant cottage cheese.
So I may still have a temp problem after the flush.

Also, my PCM file was updated to one ending in AL with the 9r08 flash, and a few others have noticed about a 10 degree increase since changing. That may be build date specific and isolated. I did it all at the same time, so can't isolate any specific cause.

Trans cooler is a 33,000 BTU Derale Atomic Cool plate cooler/with fan, and fan mod to control the fan coming on at 180. Then the fluid is routed to the condenser/trans cooler unit in front of the radiator. Neither interface with jacket water.
I used 1 1/2" alum angle and 6" square U clamps to hold the angle to the back of the bumper. Just had to trim some of the foam cover off the bumper. The mount is rock solid. Just make sure the angle is open to the outside, instead of boxing in to the inside, so You can easily get to the clamp nuts should you go this route. I posted a pic in the Frankencooler thread.

[fnkychkn]

After installing stage 1 cam/heads/shorties/high flows, AND

Max duty radiator, trans. cooler, police oil cooler, AND update to latest PCM flash with the addition of 9r08 -
I've been running 10+F hotter than with the stock radiator system. Thats about 1000 miles ago.

Just found cottage cheese in the reservoir and the dreaded ammonia smell.

Is this a first for a 5.7?
Could it be due to the radiator? Could it be something wrong with the head gasket install?

Car runs strong in it's second round of CMR tuning. No oil/water interface.

Surely needs a flush, and maybe change from the MOPAR fluid to ???

The TSB only covers 3.6 and 6.1 engines.

So what's different?

I was just getting ready to tear this thing down again. I can easily hit 212F with a 4127 thermo or 4128, with both fans on high and 30% throttle up a hill - and ambient @ 90F.
I'm hoping (and praying) that the coolant is the problem. It was replaced with new MOPAR fluid and distilled water mix during the build.

try using ZEREX G-05 coolant and ZEREX Super Protector when you flush. should prevent the cheese.

[Hal'sMag]

Thanks Pete!

The dealership said it was there first 5.7. It took 4 flushes.
I'll give it #5 and switch coolants.

[Hal'sMag]

Although the TSB didn't match my 06 R/T, the symptoms did. The Dealership mechanic did some research and agreed it was the same problem the TSB for the 6.1 and 3.5 addressed, so they called it warranty and flushed it.

First a Mopar cleaner was used, and it took four flushings to quit getting crap out. They also added the special coolant additive.

This morning, the new "red", - not frosty pink - coolant had the smell of ammonia. Also dropped about 2 quarts, so I guess it found the remaining air pockets. Amazingly, the goop did not clear from the bottle, so they replaced that also, and the cap.

Road testing at 75 F was much better than before, but still somewhat lacking for a Max duty rad.

I'll give it a few hundred miles, but probably end up flushing one more time for the sake of the block and heads, then pull the rad. and have a shop do a clean out on it. Also the water pump for a look see while I have the clearance to get in there.
Zerex G05 and Super Protector are hard to come by around here.

A couple well know strokers are running Prestone - Dexcool approved Extended Life, in the silver jug, with no problems. That I could find.

Searching the threads for "coolant", I found the link to FleetFilter.com, which sells the 4029 kit and 4070 coolant filter for $26 vs $50 @ Napa, and the filter for $7 vs $13.50 @ Napa, so ordered the kit and some filters.
That will keep the return tank looking clean, but may mask whats going on in the water jackets and radiator core. I'll run it for awhile just in case some cheese dislodges later.

Even if you don't see the cheese built up in the tank, if it has a strong ammonia smell, and the coolant starts looking cloudy (take the cap off and use a flash light), jump on it, before it jumps on you!
I anticipate about 3 days of labor, including the shop and my time before I'm done with this nightmare, and I still won't be totally sure it's not still hiding in some nook of the system. Since you can't take the end caps off the radiator to rod them, some tube flow could remain, or worse, a hot spot in the heads.

Cheese and crackers!