Cam Install

**Hal'sMag** · 11-24-2007, 09:08 PM

FnkyChkn said to use the proper install tool for the crank pulley/bolt.
I can't seem to find it.
Also a cam install from another board said to use a 7" - 14MM - 1.5 bolt, which I also have not been able to find.

I have the 2X4 and 4# hammer that CAM suggested!

I'm looking for an alternative.

Any help?

If I can purchase something, I'll send it on to those that need it after my install.

**Hurst Equipped** · 11-24-2007, 09:21 PM

don't forget to buy a new crank pully bolt. as for installing the pulley, i just used a rubber mallet to start it enough and then used the bolt to pull it in.

**GasGunR** · 11-24-2007, 10:08 PM

As Tony already suggested... make SURE you replace the crank bolt with a new one.

They are torgue to yield and if you reuse the old one, it will snap off in the crank snout and you'll be very unhappy!

**HoP1** · 11-24-2007, 10:40 PM

Originally Posted by Hal'sMag

FnkyChkn said to use the proper install tool for the crank pulley/bolt.
I can't seem to find it.
Also a cam install from another board said to use a 7" - 14MM - 1.5 bolt, which I also have not been able to find.

I have the 2X4 and 4# hammer that CAM suggested!

I'm looking for an alternative.

Any help?

If I can purchase something, I'll send it on to those that need it after my install.

The proper tool is the "long harmonic balancer set" or LS1 harmonic balancer installation tool. That's how the snap-on guy sold it to me. Took awhile for him to find it but i got it. You can install the balancer this way: Make sure the inside of the pulley is well lubed with some grease and line it up on the snout. Use a deadblow hammer this is a special hammer with shot in it. Tap it on lightly to the snout,all your doing here is getting it on the snout enough to start the bolt. Make sure to use a new bolt this is important. Between the bolt head shoulder and the washer apply some grease liberally and wipe some grease on the bolt threads. Tighten this bolt by hand using a suitable ratchet. Torque to 129 ft lbs.

**Ultimatecarman45** · 11-24-2007, 10:43 PM

Anyone happen to have the part # for the new bolt?

**GasGunR** · 11-24-2007, 11:01 PM

Just ask your parts guy at the dealer, mine had it in stock.

Originally Posted by Ultimatecarman45

Anyone happen to have the part # for the new bolt?

**Ultimatecarman45** · 11-24-2007, 11:03 PM

Originally Posted by GasGunR

Just ask your parts guy at the dealer, mine had it in stock.

Lol...I wish I could trust my parts guy. I have only one dealer for a long ways, and the last part I ordered from them ended up being for a ford....even in a chrysler dealership...yeah...that bad.

Shouldn't be too hard to look it up in the parts book.

**elcobra44** · 11-25-2007, 02:16 AM

Originally Posted by Ultimatecarman45

Anyone happen to have the part # for the new bolt?

6506 340AA

**daddystoy** · 11-25-2007, 02:57 AM

Originally Posted by HoP1

The proper tool is the "long harmonic balancer set" or LS1 harmonic balancer installation tool. That's how the snap-on guy sold it to me. Took awhile for him to find it but i got it. You can install the balancer this way: Make sure the inside of the pulley is well lubed with some grease and line it up on the snout. Use a deadblow hammer this is a special hammer with shot in it. Tap it on lightly to the snout,all your doing here is getting it on the snout enough to start the bolt. Make sure to use a new bolt this is important. Between the bolt head shoulder and the washer apply some grease liberally and wipe some grease on the bolt threads. Tighten this bolt by hand using a suitable ratchet. Torque to 129 ft lbs.

I thought the torque for this bolt was 150 ft lbs? I read that in one of the write up's floating around.

I used a harmonic balencer remover from JC Whitney to remove the pulley. I used a 2x4 with a couple blows from a hammer to get it started when putting it back on. Then I used the old bolt to seat the balencer all the way on the crank shaft, removed the old bolt, then replaced it with the new one and torqued it down to 150 ft lbs. It was pretty simple. Oh yea, make sure you lube it with oil or grease before re-seating it. I think a 3-Jaw puller would make this job much easier.

**Meister** · 11-25-2007, 03:02 AM

Kudos to all who supported Hal's request for information support.

From knowledgeable car enthusiasts and trained shop professionals/owners, and frequently from the best Mopar tech on the planet, the information has poured in.

In less than 5 hours, which includes a second question added by another forum member, all questions were answered. Not only have Hal'sMag and MUltimatecarman45 been informed, but so has everyone for whom the topic struck a cord, myself included.

This is a perfect example of your forum in action.

I'll add a good piece of advice that was given me by several members: If your car is getting up in miles and you're still running your original timing gear and chain, a cam swap is the smart opportunity to replace them. At 61,000 miles, my ride will be getting both replaced the next time the front end is opened.

**PaCharger** · 11-25-2007, 08:49 AM

I found this part number and place to get it while searching for other goodies...

Camshaft bolt....

http://moesperformance.com/index.php...roducts_id=654

**GasGunR** · 11-25-2007, 11:48 AM

Well there ya go! Replace them both

I think the crank bolt was about $6 from the dealer, he does give me lower than retail pricing...

The cam bolt failed on one members ride here, but I think that was a freak... its not torqued to yield so it shouldn't need to be replaced, but hey a few extra bucks while its all apart is cheap insurance.

**Hal'sMag** · 11-30-2007, 02:32 AM

Thanx for all the input. I would have baby tapped the dampner on andused the old bolt, but found the installer part forabout $50 shipped. Then found a local mechanic that has a installer set, and sure enough, it had the 14MM 1.5 thread adapter, so I'll ease it on the way F/C suggested.

Everyones help and support on this forum is priceless!

Looks like I'll do the install and just do some R&D on the Saudi Rad instal at this time. Ran into a snag on the hose fitting Still working it with input prom the fitting manufactures, hose manufacturers and hopefully will have some parts to check for clearance, and re-engineering study.