Ok gurus, I need help for my SRT!

Guest · 05-13-2006, 10:32 PM

Got my SRT loaded which includes the Kicker system. Love the system, but it doesn't hit hard enough so I opted to buy Grinner's enclosure and 12" sub pictured here:

I am jazzed about it, but I have a few questions.

1) Since I had not previously planned on doing any upgrades I haven't paid too much attention to install posts. I BELIEVE I have seen concerns about something not being compatible with our NAV systems? Like I can't just hook everything up all simple like?

2) Since the Kicker system is in here and it has a sub and amp hooked up behind the rear seat will this eliminate my worries? Can the new amp and all be hooked up using the same connectors/wires that the Kicker amp is using currently?? I'm hoping I can simply unhook and remove the Kicker amp/enclosure and use the existing wiring.

3) Is there an aftermarket accessory I can purchase that will allow me some control over the amp power from the driver's seat? I am thinking like a knob or remote that can adjust the amp higher or lower depending on how loud I want the "thump". I want to keep the stock head unit/NAV system, but it only has a bass control which would effect ALL of the speakers, not just the sub.

Thanks for any and all help!

**BUTWEET** · 05-13-2006, 10:47 PM

Some amps do have remote gains that you can use up front. Search the amp you're getting and see if they have one for it.

Guest · 05-13-2006, 11:09 PM

I was looking at this amp:

In two versions. The ROKP3001 300W RMS Mono Amplifier, and the ROKP4004 400W RMS 4-channel Amplifier. I suppose since I'm only powering the sub with it that I only need the mono amp right?

According to Fosgate's website it does not have any kind of remote feature, but they show this as an accessory:

Which looks fine to me.

**American Muscle** · 05-13-2006, 11:43 PM

I would make sure that the remote device they have listed as an accessory will indead work with your amp. If so then you are golden! Try and see if you can get picks of the inputs for that amp and see if they have an accessory port. Most will be a telephone like jack or a round input like an older keyboard input on a PC.

Guest · 05-14-2006, 01:53 AM

Originally Posted by American Muscle

I would make sure that the remote device they have listed as an accessory will indead work with your amp. If so then you are golden! Try and see if you can get picks of the inputs for that amp and see if they have an accessory port. Most will be a telephone like jack or a round input like an older keyboard input on a PC.

Like this?

That's the rear of that amp I'm looking at.

Also... anyone have any thoughts on my first 2 questions?

**linuxkidd** · 05-14-2006, 11:01 AM

Ok, The pic you have of the backside of the amp does show a 'Remote Bass' connection. Which would be where the accessory remote plugs into. So, you should be good there.. ( You may still want to see if they have a compatibility chart, but I'm 99% certain you are good to go. )

1.) Not a problem w/ the NAV unit. The problems you've read about are with regard to removing the factory amp completely ( the one that drives the rear, door, and dash speakers ). When you do this, the whole system changes the way it works. You do loose UConnect, and NAV Voice output. Since you're adding a Sub amp along side the existing factory amp, you're not going to have any problem.

2.) I've not seen a wiring diagram for the Kicker sub system. I'll see what I can find out sometime today and get back to ya...

LK

Guest · 05-14-2006, 11:52 AM

Thanks dude, that's a huge help!

**Super T** · 05-14-2006, 02:43 PM

That remote unit is pretty slick... not only control the gain (volume) but the crossover frequency as well!

**FamilyTruxster** · 05-15-2006, 07:38 PM

youll need a little more power than that little Fosgate amp.....I would also recommend a better amp even if you went with Fosgate go with a power series and not a punch series....like Grinners amp it is a Power series....much cleaner sounding and more reliable....ERic

Guest · 05-15-2006, 08:34 PM

Might be a consideration.

As far as power goes, 300w is plenty for the sub. Grin said he blew out two others with a 500w amp... so I don't need to go that big.

**Super T** · 05-15-2006, 09:52 PM

600w in the trunk of my cutlass has been more than enough... i've never turned it up past halfway and i still have leaking window seals from it. 300w should be plenty in an open car like the mag, unless you're looking to rattle other people's windows too.

**northeastern08** · 05-15-2006, 10:08 PM

Looks good to me with that remote and amp (like others have said the amp has the remote bass connection so you should be fine)...You most likely can mount the knobs up front in a way that you only see the knobs...I like everything clean looking so I opted to do this in mine...Heres a link to a pic to show you what I mean ---> Pic Link ... Granted thats a single knob in my setup, but two should work just the same...That remote unit doesnt look too bad though...Some can be really hideous

The remote knob is great though...Since I never have my behemoth of a sub up all the way, its nice to have the adjustment accessable for different types of music

Good luck with the install

**JamminWagon** · 05-15-2006, 10:09 PM

You just have to rememeber, lets say you want a 300w level. A 300w amp will clip at the top end lets say 10%. So clipping starts at 270watts. Now if you get a 500w you will get clipping at 450w, so 300w watts will be nice and clean. The trick is not to go over board!!

This is just a very simple example and the numbers are for easy math.

Nothing like the electrical smell of the voice coils getting hot then the nail on the chalkboard sound of damaged subs.

**KCustom** · 05-16-2006, 03:08 PM

You will find by upgrading the sub that the other speakers and amp in the Kicker system will keep up nicly....if the amp for the sub has speaker level inputs the signal is in the Stock sub connector the four wires are power pin 1, ground pin 4, positive signal pin 2 and negitive signal pin 3...As for power in the subwoofer I like to match the RMS of the woofer and RMS rating of the amp to match as close as possible.