Factory Subwoofer in Charger

[Sixpak]

Hi there,

Does anyone know if the wiring harness is already run from the deck to the trunk for the factory subwoofer in an 06 Charger R/T. I have the factory 6 pack in Dash CD player and Video entertainment system installed and I would like to put a Sub in but don't really want to mess around with the wires.

Thanks in Advance

Stu

[todd0218]

the only way the wiring is in the trunk is if you have the the kicker sound package. But then again if your adding a sub the kicker oem harness is useless to you. Most aftermarket amps require 4-8 awg wire NOT 14-16 awg wire. But i have to say you can run all the wiring with ease in less than an hour with the battery in the trunk.

[diboblo]

Yeah... What Todd said...

Then:

Get yourself a Pac-Audio C2A-CHY, plug it in line behind the radio.

Run the RCA's and your remote turn on wire under the carpet, on top of the transmission hump, to the trunk. (You will have to remove the console to do this. It's a snap!)

Pull down the cover under the parcel tray (in the trunk) and mount the amp there.

Run your 2 or 4awg wire from the battery, up over the wheel well (in the trunk) and over to the amp. (Be sure to fuse this lead)

Run a short ground (also 2 or 4awg) to the body.

Plug in your RCA's from the front, to the input of the amp.

Hook up your remote turn on wire.

Run the wires from the amp to the sub box and cal the sub amp.

Viola!

Bob

[todd0218]

BOB thats a great way but i have a proven alternative. The more simplistic way to go if your only adding a subwoofer amp and only require the lower frequencies. Everyone I have spoke with saying this way in comparison to your way the sound quality is unoticeable. Get yourself a line output converter (LOC) I use the scosche slc-4 $30 bucks. Tap the + and - wires going to the 6x9's and hook the wire to your loc. then plug rcas from the loc to the amp. you can adjust the gain on this loc too get it as high as you can without distortion, so you dont have to use as much gain on your amps. Now buy a amp kit put the power and ground wires on the bolts on the battery. And for the remote in the 300's near the battery there is a big cluster of wires and i assume its the same in the charger but there is a solid pink wire you can tap for a remote wire. If you probe the solid pink wire with a test light, the light should be off when the car is off and on when the car is on. One end of test light to pink wire the other you can touch on the cars ground on the battery. If you dont like that for remote wire there is a fuse you can tap in the rear that will give your the ignition feed as well.
So this alternative ZERO wires have to go to the front of the car!

[diboblo]

Todd,

I went with the Pac-Audio version of that LOC (TRUNK-LOC was the PN). While it greatly simplified the install, the bass imaging was flat; almost muddy. The rear 6x9's are equalized by the factory amp and don't get full range of frequency, so the LOC is processing a processed signal that is not fully adequate for a sub-woofer.

Don't get me wrong... I ran this setup for months and was perfectly happy with it, until I went to an M&G and had the opportunity to listen to a fellow member's ride with the C2A-CHY. What a difference!

I think both ways are perfectly legit. It really boils down to personal preference. Me... I like to tinker with things and am already thinking about putting a 12" and amp under the deck ('cause the SRT doesn't have a spare and it's a perfect space for that kind of thing).

Hope all of this info helps answer the original question

Great input, Todd.

Bob

BOB thats a great way but i have a proven alternative. The more simplistic way to go if your only adding a subwoofer amp and only require the lower frequencies. Everyone I have spoke with saying this way in comparison to your way the sound quality is unoticeable. Get yourself a line output converter (LOC) I use the scosche slc-4 $30 bucks. Tap the + and - wires going to the 6x9's and hook the wire to your loc. then plug rcas from the loc to the amp. you can adjust the gain on this loc too get it as high as you can without distortion, so you dont have to use as much gain on your amps. Now buy a amp kit put the power and ground wires on the bolts on the battery. And for the remote in the 300's near the battery there is a big cluster of wires and i assume its the same in the charger but there is a solid pink wire you can tap for a remote wire. If you probe the solid pink wire with a test light, the light should be off when the car is off and on when the car is on. One end of test light to pink wire the other you can touch on the cars ground on the battery. If you dont like that for remote wire there is a fuse you can tap in the rear that will give your the ignition feed as well.
So this alternative ZERO wires have to go to the front of the car!

[Repth]

Todd,

I went with the Pac-Audio version of that LOC (TRUNK-LOC was the PN). While it greatly simplified the install, the bass imaging was flat; almost muddy. The rear 6x9's are equalized by the factory amp and don't get full range of frequency, so the LOC is processing a processed signal that is not fully adequate for a sub-woofer.

Don't get me wrong... I ran this setup for months and was perfectly happy with it, until I went to an M&G and had the opportunity to listen to a fellow member's ride with the C2A-CHY. What a difference!

I think both ways are perfectly legit. It really boils down to personal preference. Me... I like to tinker with things and am already thinking about putting a 12" and amp under the deck ('cause the SRT doesn't have a spare and it's a perfect space for that kind of thing).

Hope all of this info helps answer the original question

Great input, Todd.

Bob

Trunk LOC sounds good on my R/T with the 6 BA (no sub) system. The system with the sub may well be equalized entirely different, though. The signal could stand to be slightly cleaner, but with no sub, I don't have much of a choice. :P

[todd0218]

Todd,

I went with the Pac-Audio version of that LOC (TRUNK-LOC was the PN). While it greatly simplified the install, the bass imaging was flat; almost muddy. The rear 6x9's are equalized by the factory amp and don't get full range of frequency, so the LOC is processing a processed signal that is not fully adequate for a sub-woofer.

Don't get me wrong... I ran this setup for months and was perfectly happy with it, until I went to an M&G and had the opportunity to listen to a fellow member's ride with the C2A-CHY. What a difference!

I think both ways are perfectly legit. It really boils down to personal preference. Me... I like to tinker with things and am already thinking about putting a 12" and amp under the deck ('cause the SRT doesn't have a spare and it's a perfect space for that kind of thing).

Hope all of this info helps answer the original question

Great input, Todd.

Bob

dang i wish i could compare the two.. I have not heard one with the pac, but guys told me they couldnt tell the difference. Just out of curiosity do you know what frequencies the rear 6x9's are cut at? I was always thinking the rear 6x9's are a full range untouched speaker, but i could be wrong i guess if they are set at a certain frequency the sub is probably getting screwed out of the lower frequencies btw 20-40 hertz but i dont really know. One thing i do know is for my subwoofer i dont want it receiving anything above 120 hertz. above 120 is for the mids and highs to perform. I think another thing this depends on is what amp you have as your oem, I have the boston amp and soon will have the kick18ab.. But i just scrapped my whole system and going to try something different. But i do know the boston amps and kicker amps have different frequency settings for all the speakers in the cars..

[Sixpak]

Thanks for all the info guys, I will be doing something shortly, I really need a little more bass, apart from that the factory system is decent, I prefer listening to the engine and crying of the ricers I beat anyway.