My 05 magnum RT AWD has developed the radiator leak. I'm looking at replacing the radiator and am wondering if anyone has purchased the CH3010315 More Information for VARIOUS MFR CH3010315 Radiator. If so, has it worked out ok and is it a direct replacement? Any comments would be great and if any one has any other reccomendations that would be great as well. You can't really beat the price of this one so it makes me wonder a bit. Thanks for your input.
I couldn't make sense of that.
Rock Auto has good prices on stock replacements.
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Sorry if my post wasn't clear. My question was, is the following radiator part number CH3010315 from Rock Auto a direct replacement for my 2005 Magnum AWD 5.7L? I do not want to have to fabricate anything to make it fit. The price of this radiator is less than 1/2 of what all the local part stores are asking so I am also wondering about the quality of the radiator. Has anyone installed this radiator in their magnum and if so have they had any issues with it?
Pretty easy install. Air box, fans, hoses, clips. And refill with 1/2 distilled water. I was told to bleed the coolant through the front of the water pump. I actually just kept burping it with the over flow tank and seemed to work fine, took a little while, but worked... rock auto is great, u can call n get someone on the phone too. New is always best, but for me, I was in a jam and found a local member that upgraded for the track, so I took his stock 5.7 rad for about $50 thanks Jason!(Charger4Life)
Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by "burping" it and how do you do it? Thanks for the info.
you have to get the air out of the system...bubbles. After filling the coolant, leaving the cap off and allowing it to fill the system, its going to burp, the air is coming back out of the overflow tank. It makes a pretty good gargling and creaking noise and will bubble out the top a bit sometimes. The stressful part for me doing this was keeping an eye on the temperature wondering how much coolant/distilled water it was going to take. I remember I had to keep turning the car off if the temp went up to 220+ or so, I was nervous to let it get too hot.
*hopefully someone else can chime in that has more experience with this, I just wanted to let you know its easily a DIY.
I think it was a gallon of DexCool/gallon distilled water, and then had to add about a gallon more to fill it up.
The bleeding method would be, to just bleed it until its coming out all coolant(orange)
Thanks D-Lash, I appreciate the info. I still need to figure out exactly where the leak is coming from, it appears to be leaking from the right side somewhere and it seems to come and go. Might be something really simple. Right now I'm just trying to gather enough information to be prepared for the worse case scenario.
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The water pump will leak from the center.
The right side is the engine outlet and pretty easy to see if it's leaking at the hose.
Left side bottom is return to the pump.
LOL, that stop leak probably would do the trick!
Drop your bottom rear belly pan and you can see in there pretty well. The condenser and trans. cooler cover the front, and the fans and shroud assembly the rear. The fan assembly is plenty easy to get off to get a better look. It's probably best to find the leak before throwing parts at it.
Burping. The burp plug is the hex plug on the front at the water pump. That will get most of the air out. With the system still cold, clean the reso cap area so it doesn't taste nasty, and pinch the overflow hose. Blow pressure into that, and it usually forces the coolant and keeps from having a bad air lock. Expect it to go from the high level to low level in the next day or so of driving, as any remaining air works it's way out.
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I assume the Tstat is located where the water hose comes from the pass side of radiator into front pass side of motor?
What is needed, Tstat, any gasket for the mating surfaces? and I assume any tstat I order comes with the rubber seal on it also?