If your rotors are slightly warped will getting them turned help any? I have a slight shake/shimmy in the steering wheel at all speeds when I gently apply the brakes. When I lay on the brakes pretty hard it doesn't shimmy so I'm assuming a rotor is warped a little. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Sounds like turning your rotors should provide a temporary solution. I believe most places charge about $10/rotor. The reason I say it's a temporary solution is because most find that their rotors will warp fairly quickly again after turning. With the time/labor involved, it's darn near worth just replacing them.
p.s. If you have slotted rotors, you probably won't find anyone to turn them.
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I just bought replacements for 70 and some change per rotor so as stated above replacing them would be the best bet in my opinion.
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Can you see dark areas on the rotors? If you can, try steel wooling with some 0000. It might be residue coked on from a hard stop.
Turning a rotor is no more a temporary solution than replacing the rotor. New rotors can/will eventually warp as well. Often times it is people driving habits that heat/cool the rotors so much that the warp more quickly than with other drivers. Habits either personal, or route taken requiring more braking...
If you can solve your problem, then what is the need of worrying? If you cannot solve it, then what is the use of worrying?
Other sources of judder: bad wheel bearing, control arm bushings, or tie rod ends.
Just replace them. Been there, done that and have the T shirt to prove it. Once they warp, they're scrap.
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I had the same exact front end shimmy a few months back. I had my uncle who is a pro mechanic, turn the front rotors and I went ahead and put new Stoptech pads on the front and the shimmy went away. Its been about 4 months and still warp free and shimmy free. Some places wont turn them so you may need to find someone on the side.
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I am hard on the rotor and have to turn them more than once !
If they are far the wear limit on the tickness, you can turn them without problem
I even keep the same pad and usualy good for another 20000 miles !
I had now upgrade to R1 slotted rotor with stoptek pad and they didn't warp yet
Better set up than SRT stock brake.
If you look, you'll see 3 rotors avail: "OEM", middle level (which is OEM sprayed with paint to limit rust and allegedly more closely balanced), and "performance" which is mid level with slots or drillings. Everybody sells the same exact rotors from China. Whether NAPA, AUTOZONE, Raybestos, they are all the same, and even have similar part numbers. Drilling and/or slotting do NOTHING but add bling and may cause serious issues. If you want a couple hundred rotors, a big guy like Brembo will stamp them "Bob's Brake House" or whatever and put any slot or hole design you want on them.
In short, check around, and if you have a coupon or something that makes the mid level $.20 cheaper or whatever, get them there. Last time I got them, Autozone had web coupons that made them almost half price.
When you either cut or replace your rotors please make sure you torque your wheels to specification. Otherwise your rotors will warp again.


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