Rear shock removal and install

**fesster** · 07-30-2007, 06:41 PM

Before I go and switch out the Nivomat shocks with the stock ones, I was wondering if the install is as simple as taking off the wheels and unbolting? I assume I do not have to mess with the control arm or anything? I searched and couldn't find out for sure.

Also, do the Nivomats still have normal bumpstops in them?

**Super T** · 07-30-2007, 06:51 PM

If you have the Nivomats, you will not be able to compress them yourself so you will have to lower the rear cradle (or unbolt the inner bolts on the lower control arm). If they are not the Nivomats, you can pull the wheel, unbolt, compress and remove.

**pigpen** · 07-30-2007, 07:33 PM

Originally Posted by fesster

Before I go and switch out the Nivomat shocks with the stock ones, I was wondering if the install is as simple as taking off the wheels and unbolting? I assume I do not have to mess with the control arm or anything? I searched and couldn't find out for sure.

Also, do the Nivomats still have normal bumpstops in them?

jack the car up in the air.
Remove the wheels
Remove the two top shock bolts
Put a jack underneath the shock area
unbolt the lower control a-arm or drop the rear diff "if droping the diff
remove the brake line.
Remove the lower bolt for the shock
slowey let the jack down.

There is a great how to that works great.

And you don't need a spring compressor for the back end and no bump stops with the load leveling for the backend.

**slipman70** · 07-30-2007, 08:05 PM

why cant you use the spring compressor on the back it seen it would make it easy to do just a thought

**Arch Stanton** · 07-30-2007, 08:12 PM

Originally Posted by slipman70

why cant you use the spring compressor on the back it seen it would make it easy to do just a thought

I've seen several people say that you don't need one, but when I did mine I had one heck of a time with having that bolt constantly under tension due to the spring. The bolt took some real "finessing" to get out and it was even more difficult to get it realigned when I went to put it back together.

Maybe I was doing something wrong, but when I go to replace my brother's rear suspension I'll be using a spring compressor.

**fesster** · 07-31-2007, 12:24 PM

Thanks for all the help! I'll try it out here in the next couple of days.

**fesster** · 08-03-2007, 05:01 AM

OK, so I started on the driver side and after struggling with the bolt on the lower control arm, I don't see how it can come out without dropping the exhaust. I'm not sure if the bolt is in backwards, but the head of the bolt is facing towards the back (towards the exhaust pipe). Am I just an idiot or do I have to drop the exhaust?

**LX HEMI** · 08-03-2007, 05:32 AM

Originally Posted by fesster

OK, so I started on the driver side and after struggling with the bolt on the lower control arm, I don't see how it can come out without dropping the exhaust. I'm not sure if the bolt is in backwards, but the head of the bolt is facing towards the back (towards the exhaust pipe). Am I just an idiot or do I have to drop the exhaust?

That bolt is a PITA!! I know. It took me forever too with the exhaust pipe in the way. I disconnected the rear hangers and pulled as hard as I could the get room. Scrached up the pipe pretty good but noone can see that. Anyway, when I reinstalled the bolt I put it in backwards. Cake to get in and out now!!

**fesster** · 08-03-2007, 04:24 PM

SO I got the inner bolt on the control arm off and I still don't have enough clearance to remove the shock!

I obviously can't compress the shock at all and I can't get the control arm to go any lower without removing other bolts, so what am I doing wrong?

I probably need about an inch more of clearance as I can get the nut on the top of the shock out of the upper hole, I just don't have enough clearance to remove the threaded part.

When I look at the pics on the how to post, my control arm doesn't seem to be hanging as low as the pics show due to some type of link bar that is running from the front of the car blocking the arm from droppping any lower.

Please help the idiot! Thanks

**LX HEMI** · 08-03-2007, 08:43 PM

If you remove that inner bolt to the A arm you should have all the clearence you need. The sprint will just fall out. Take a look at the "do it yourself" section. Go to "suspension, tires, wheels", then take a look at "how to install lowering springs". This will give you step by step and pictures of removal of the front and rear.

**LX HEMI** · 08-03-2007, 08:49 PM

I was thinking. If you jack up the control arm with the shock still in it the shock should compress then unbolt the bottem bolt, lower the jack the, shock should stay compress and you'd have plunty of room. Unbolt the top two.

**pigpen** · 08-03-2007, 09:14 PM

Originally Posted by Hemi Wagon

I was thinking. If you jack up the control arm with the shock still in it the shock should compress then unbolt the bottem bolt, lower the jack the, shock should stay compress and you'd have plunty of room. Unbolt the top two.

That will work fine!

**fesster** · 08-03-2007, 09:32 PM

Yeah, I've been following the other post in the how to section for directions. I don't think that car had the Nivomats though.

I had already unbolted the shock before I unbolted the control arm, so I will try your suggestion.

Right now, with nothing under the arm, the spring doesn't fall out. It is loose though and I could take it out, but it doesn't drop out on its own.

**fesster** · 08-06-2007, 02:02 AM

Originally Posted by Hemi Wagon

I was thinking. If you jack up the control arm with the shock still in it the shock should compress then unbolt the bottem bolt, lower the jack the, shock should stay compress and you'd have plunty of room. Unbolt the top two.

I tried this out tonight. Bolted both top screws up, bolted bottom screw, compressed shock from 24 inches up to 22 inches with jack, took bottom bolt out, slowly let jack out, and the shock just dropped back down with the control arm. UNfortunately, it made no difference that the bottom bolt wasn't connected. This method would definitely work if I could get the shock to stay compressed. I'm not sure what to do now.