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  1. #1
    apollo's Avatar
    apollo is offline DEAL with it!!!
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    OEM replacement rotors from Zekhausen - review

    I got tired of bitching about how bad the stock rotors were and constant need to bed them. So after considering EBC product and several other brands I decided to go with Centric Parts rotors that David Zekhausen http://www.zeckhausen.com/ sells. I looked at several e-bay vendors, none of them had that good of the deal.
    Plus we constantly link to his bedding procedure page, so I figured I would pick his brain about rotors too before I buy em. I ended up getting the slotted version, since drilled loose too much braking surface and I was not willing to risk loss of any extra structural rigidity.

    David shipped my rotors very promptly. Loved his service!

    Yesterday was the day to put them on. Stock rotors were causing so much judder, even my wife noticed (not a good thing).
    So I replaced the rotors and went to do my bedding procedure. I did not replace the stock pads, because even after 44K miles, they had still 60 or more % left on them.
    I found that the brakes are definitely grippier. I know one particular stretch of the road very well, because that is where I go to "play". I know exactly how long it takes me to accelerate or stop. With the new slotted rotors, the pad is definitely grippier (just like David warned me). Plus the rotors are a tad lighter too.

    '05 Magnum RT
    : Borla 112, HHP High-flow cats, Frankentake III air intake, F.O.G projector headlights, painted calipers, SC FlashPaq, AR 311 20s w/ Nitto 420s. Practical car
    '07 Porsche Cayman S: de-snorked, exhaust modifications, suspension, racing rubber. 4 years of autocrossing and DEs

  2. #2
    joseph's Avatar
    joseph is offline Banned
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    Good to hear, I have their website saved in my favorites, because I 'm planning on buying slotted rotors from them when the stock ones crap out.

  3. #3
    cmdycrzr's Avatar
    cmdycrzr is offline LX Padiwan
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    I'm not familiar with the term "bedding"...is it re-seating the brakes? How is it done?
    "...growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional..."

  4. #4
    Electrofreak's Avatar
    Electrofreak is offline Can't shake the shock!
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmdycrzr View Post
    I'm not familiar with the term "bedding"...is it re-seating the brakes? How is it done?
    http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

    It's explained here.

  5. #5
    Token's Avatar
    Token is offline First AWD LX in the 12's N/A
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    Quite the difference in price for slotted vs. regular solid face. for the R/T

    Front Solid: $80.00each
    Front Slotted: $105.00each

    Rear Solid: $55.00each
    Rear Slotted: $103.00each

    Wonder why it costs $25.00 to slot a front rotor and $48.00 to slot a rear?
    FRI Econo Heads & FRI Sidewinder: Installed @ BFNY by Hemi31 with special guest Fnkychkn, JBA Shorties, JBA/HHP hi-flow catted mids, stock SRT8 cat-back, C&L CAI.
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  6. #6
    txjeff's Avatar
    txjeff is offline The Cranky Yankee
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    Interesting article. I never heard of bedding the brakes before. Thanks.
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  7. #7
    da BoMM's Avatar
    da BoMM is offline Conspicuous Combustion . . .
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    Quote Originally Posted by apollo View Post
    I got tired of bitching about how bad the stock rotors were and constant need to bed them. So after considering EBC product and several other brands I decided to go with Centric Parts rotors that David Zekhausen http://www.zeckhausen.com/ sells. I looked at several e-bay vendors, none of them had that good of the deal.
    Plus we constantly link to his bedding procedure page, so I figured I would pick his brain about rotors too before I buy em. I ended up getting the slotted version, since drilled loose too much braking surface and I was not willing to risk loss of any extra structural rigidity.

    David shipped my rotors very promptly. Loved his service!

    Yesterday was the day to put them on. Stock rotors were causing so much judder, even my wife noticed (not a good thing).
    So I replaced the rotors and went to do my bedding procedure. I did not replace the stock pads, because even after 44K miles, they had still 60 or more % left on them.
    I found that the brakes are definitely grippier. I know one particular stretch of the road very well, because that is where I go to "play". I know exactly how long it takes me to accelerate or stop. With the new slotted rotors, the pad is definitely grippier (just like David warned me). Plus the rotors are a tad lighter too.
    Apollo -

    keep us posted on this: some questions:

    1) Did you replace both front and rear?
    2) Approx how much per rotor?
    3) Did you do the change out and if so, how much trouble?
    4) Why would these relieve judder over the stock rotors -- I'm looking for a scientific explanation
    (and I, like many, have the judder issue -- it's chronic: I do bed the brakes, but with my "STOP N GO" driving I'm back to judder pretty quick -- especially noticeable when the brakes get hot, and at 85-65 MPH)

    Thanks.
    Last edited by da BoMM; 11-23-2006 at 07:57 PM.
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  8. #8
    apollo's Avatar
    apollo is offline DEAL with it!!!
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    I replaced only the fronts. $116 each.
    Replacing rotors was a piece of cake, since I already painted calipers and been there numerous times, so I was familiar with what was there.
    #4. Do the reading on the forums re judder. There are hundreds of posts about that. My problem was beyond bedding.

    '05 Magnum RT
    : Borla 112, HHP High-flow cats, Frankentake III air intake, F.O.G projector headlights, painted calipers, SC FlashPaq, AR 311 20s w/ Nitto 420s. Practical car
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  9. #9
    aries4life's Avatar
    aries4life is offline Goodbye Mag
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    I broke in my new (OEM pads and rotors) brakes recently on accident. I was planning on doing it the proper way but ended up not needing to. I went on a high speed run on some twistys near my house. I live in a "country" area just outside of Macon. Somebody wanted to go for an aggressive ride one night and I gave it to 'em. I was between 80 and 120 the whole time. Very heavy late-braking on corner entry, sometimes sliding the rear slightly on acceleration and all 4 corner sliding on entry. I felt the brakes start to fade and decided it was time to tame it down. After I slowed down I was able to cruise without stopping for a little bit. I was worried about cracking my rotors (again ) so I made sure I didn't stop. While I was cruising I made a mental note to visually inspect the rotors the next day or two and pay attention to the braking force. I was pleased to notice a vast improvement in braking force and the visual inspection showed the tell-tale signs of nearing the "g-spot" of brake critical temp for break in. I guess i got lucky on that one and I will forego the proper bedding procedure until I notice degredation in braking performance.

    Sorry for the novel. I guess I'm in a story telling mood.

    -Steve

    '05 Mag R/T - Shaved Ram logo and bumper indentions - Eibach ProKit - JBA Shorty Headers - JBA mids - SRT-8 X-over - Magnaflow muffs - Borla pipes - Zoomers tips - DiabloSport Predator - 170 deg thermostat - Jim Turner Fan Mod - Modded SRT Airbox - Quickest Superstock 5.7L at S.E. Shindig '08 You will be missed... R.I.P. :(

  10. #10
    Scott is offline AWD Fan
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    Apollo,

    Thanks for the report. Please keep us updated on how they hold up.

    Why did you choose slotted over solid?

    Scott

  11. #11
    apollo's Avatar
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    I chose to spend a bit extra on slotted, because I felt I did need a bit grippier behavior of the pads. In my daily driving there are plenty of times when wide open highway becomes a parking lot without any notice. David Zekhausen owns an LX, so he knows how our cars behave. He felt that slots will give me what I want and I think I got exactly that. Now if I wanted to get evem better brake performance, I would have to go for big brake kit, but at this point I don't see room in my play budget for that.

    '05 Magnum RT
    : Borla 112, HHP High-flow cats, Frankentake III air intake, F.O.G projector headlights, painted calipers, SC FlashPaq, AR 311 20s w/ Nitto 420s. Practical car
    '07 Porsche Cayman S: de-snorked, exhaust modifications, suspension, racing rubber. 4 years of autocrossing and DEs

  12. #12
    apollo's Avatar
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    It has been raining for the last two days (and will be snowing today). I know that brakes get real wet during these times. I love just how much faster brake pads dry off and give you that nice grip. Stock rotors would take you about a full second, these slotted ones dry out by the time you have fully depressed the brake pedal.
    LOVE IT. Sure saved my bacon today twice.

    '05 Magnum RT
    : Borla 112, HHP High-flow cats, Frankentake III air intake, F.O.G projector headlights, painted calipers, SC FlashPaq, AR 311 20s w/ Nitto 420s. Practical car
    '07 Porsche Cayman S: de-snorked, exhaust modifications, suspension, racing rubber. 4 years of autocrossing and DEs

  13. #13
    Meathammer's Avatar
    Meathammer is offline Ugh, kittens give Morbo gas
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    I see that the Centric brand rotors are marketed as Stop-Tech rotors also. I had a Stop-Tech brake upgrade kit on my last car (slotted rotors all around, ss braided lines, quality DOT4 fluid and Hawk pads). While I can't speak for experience on the LX platform, I can tell you that that upgrade made a HUGE difference on my last car. The slotted rotors will help keep the pads clean and minimize glazing. I would definitely buy the same set-up again for my R/T, if I had the $$$.
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  14. #14
    apollo's Avatar
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    So I have done already over 5K miles on my slotted Stop_Tech rotors from Zekhausen. LOVING THEM!!! Ever since I "seasoned" them per Zekhausen's instruction the moment I put them on, they have been nothing but awesome.
    Definitely an improvement. With stock rotors you needed about a second or two until they would really grip. Not the case with the new ones. They bite right away. No squeeks, no other noises, just nice steady braking.

    So if you are looking for a cheap upgrade for your brakes, this is it.

    Also, since it has been nasty lately, these rotors work very well with OEM brake pads once salty slush and other nastiness gets on the brakes. Those slots clean of the pad very very well.

    '05 Magnum RT
    : Borla 112, HHP High-flow cats, Frankentake III air intake, F.O.G projector headlights, painted calipers, SC FlashPaq, AR 311 20s w/ Nitto 420s. Practical car
    '07 Porsche Cayman S: de-snorked, exhaust modifications, suspension, racing rubber. 4 years of autocrossing and DEs

  15. #15
    moparman53's Avatar
    moparman53 is offline Finally got a HEMI again.

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    I'm happy to see this post as I feel the stock brakes are no longer safe since my engine mods. I didn't see any price for the calipers alone. Maybe rotors and pads will be enough. That I can afford. The whole kit; not really.

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