as title.
when I turn left the sound diapers. Back on stright - it returns. Interestingly it is not more intense when I turn right.
It is increasing in frequency with the speed of the vehicle. It is not related to engine speed. I rotated the tires and the droning sound stayed. How worried should I be?
any ides how much would it cost at dealer?
how many miles can I survive before fixing it...?
what is the worse it can happen/
(i know - questions are stupid, but I would not be asking them if I didnt' have to)
Mines been doing that for about 6000 miles, my brother is supposed to look at it but he is a Pansy who refuses to work in the driveway. Guess I'll have to get ahold of somone else. I can't do it myself due to surgery.
2011 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic - Redline 3-Coat Pearl, 6-speed2005 Dodge Magnum RT-Can you say...HEMI?2004 Chrysler Pacifica AWD-Everything but the kitchen sink.1989 WS6/L98 Trans Am-Got Torque?
^^ Good advise. Bring the vaseline to.
Pedator, CAI, MDS indicator, ESP/BAS defeat switch, Tranzformer, blacked out wire mesh grille, smoked and flashing side markers, 9005 2400k 65W fogs, Euro rear fogs, debadged and demolded, 255/45/20 Nitto 420's, Boss 338 wheels, painted calipers. Glovebox & cup holder LED Mod. Blastin Bob 6db reso delete pipes. Euro LED side signal repeaters, 55/35 window tint, BT catch can. Color matched tail lights. Custom front lip. LED interior lighting.
Next: Lower with BCR Coilovers.
It's really not too bad of a job. What engine? srt axles require you to compress the suspension to remove the hub due to their thickness, but otherwise just jack her up, remove wheel, rotors, calipers(hang out of the way)and hub nut and slowly back out the 4 external torx bolts attaching hub assembly to spindle. Make sure to do a few turns at a time on each one and just pull the hub forward as you loosen them. The same Bolts hold the parking brake backing plate in as well. E12 socket or 12 point 3/8 will work. A swivel comes in handy as well and a long extension. When reinstalling the torque specs are 50ft lbs for hub mounting bolts and 157ft lbs for the hub nut.
Download the service manual. It's all in there. Section 2 rear suspension hub and bearing New Service Manual Download Link
Last edited by PRPLHAZE; 05-12-2012 at 05:02 PM.
Thanks all.
This is what I ordered. Right part?
2008*Dodge*Magnum*Wheel Hub Assembly Parts from Buy Auto Parts
Funny cause mine had the same symptoms and after the hub change, still there. I really feel it when im turning left and right so im thinking its the struts, IDK.
it's always difficult to diagnose 100% the right bearing that is causing the noise. I've been dead certain it was one going bad based on the way it sounded when turning one direction and then the other only to change it and find out it was the other one. Most of the time the "hum" will increase when the bad one is loaded, but not always. If going in to have it replaced play dumb and let the shop/dealership tell you which one is bad and hold them to getting it fixed. Just tell them "I started to hear this sound, but not sure exactly where it is coming from". Then they can drive it and tell you rather than saying "I need my driver's side front replaced" only for them to do what you ask and the problem stays with you having no recourse to get them to correct the actual problem.
BTW - replaced my driver's side front bearing last weekend using just a floor jack and got it done in less than an hour (1st time ever doing the job too).
2005 MRT, CV, K&N CAI, 20" Black Powder Coat CSRT OEM Wheels
Thanks Mike, good advice...
Hey guys, hate to resurrect an old thread but I'm tackling this project this weekend. Looked at the service manual and have tried to find info on youtube but couldn't find it. How big is that hub nut? What size socket am I going to need? Just looking at the back nut, it's going to be pretty stinking big...
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