excellent pictures, great job
Current Project: Forged 383 Iron Block/AFR Heads for 2001 Chevy Suburban 2500 4x4, 4.10 rear
Next Project: '06 Magnum SRT8 - Daily Driver, Awaiting Forged 426 Hemi Stroker Build
Thank you DrgnWgn for excellent detailed instructions and crystal clear pics.
Mods, this most definitely should be stored in the Suspension & Wheels KB. It belongs with Junior's award winning Brake Pad replacement post.
Beans to mnunes for including it in his "How I do everything" guide.
2007 Black Charger R/T, Road & Track package - original owner - 961 engine hours
5.7L Hemi Registry #1521 | Parts by Adam at EASTWAY
Mods: AirHammer/Magnaflow Catback/MOPAR Strut bar/Blinker mod/Hankook Ventus V12s/R1 Concepts rotors/Centric semi-metalic pads/Splash guards/Hood struts/BT Catch Can, Pistol grip, Skull emblem, knobs/PCM Cover/Hood weatherstrip/Glove Box Light/Mopar HEMI carpets & trunk carpet/WeatherTech floor liners/OEM battery maintenance by Battery Tender Plus
Resistance is futile
Not trying to bring an old thread back to life.. but my brake shoes on the drivers side um.. well broke a couple days back while at a stop sign, big crunch than the car started driving fine. This morning on my way to work sounded like I had a flat tire and then crunch crunch.. then drove fine the rest of the way to work, and then leaving work a small clank I caught it that time def. rear drivers side.. so went to parts store bought rear brakes, and diff fluid. They would have to order anything else, When I got home and in the dark I pulled the drivers side tire, caliper, rotor and it all came out in peices, everything is in shreds.. the adjuster, and adjuster spring, and the two nail looking things where all that was left to the shoes.. I took it all off seeing as how I cant replace it now anyways since I have to order it all. Changed pads, put all back togethor with no E-Brake shoes. - Did the pass side, and they ebrake shoes on that side are fine... -weird LX problems.
5.7L Hemi Registry #1410, AWD. SC Tuner, Flowmaster Delta 40s, Frankentake 4, Air Silencer Delete, More Air Mod, Auto Lights Mod....
I did not pull the wheel bearing when putting in the new parts. That being said, those freakin retaining pins/clips are the work of the devil. I was cussing up a storm trying to get those things on. All in all, not a hard job, just a practice in frustration.
Yeah with it being dark out I couldn't see how to get the pins out so I cut them off so they wouldn't be hitting the rotor.
I had the caliper-like adjustment tool. It's made by K-D tools and last I knew goes for somewhere around $40-$50 bucks (US). It's a very handy tool. Loosen the adjustment knob and slide the caliper arms until the outer, pointy, edges touch the inner edges of the drum. Tighten the adjustment knob, flip the caliper over and slide the inner, flat, edges over the shoes and adjust them until they touch the inner edges of the caliper arm. You're done adjusting. Quick and simple.
Any place that sells K-D Tools should either have it or be able to order it.
Makes me regret I had to sell all my tools a few years ago.
For those of you who are wondering if this can be done easily without removing the spindle, yes it can be done. I just did the driver's side earlier tonight. Its a little bit trickier to engage the tension spring on the actuator side of the shoes, but if you hook the bottom end of the spring into it's hole first, you can use a pair of small pliers to grab the top of the spring to hook it's end into the hole of the top shoe.
Sometimes the hooks will catch the edge of the hole, but appear to be fully seated. Make sure the hooks are all the way in, by pushing them toward the hole with a flat bladed screwdriver, so the hooks grab the holes properly. You'll "feel" them click into place, if they weren't seated all the way.
If your parking brake shoes did not come with new springs, and the old ones are really rusted, go through the minor inconvienience of obtaining new ones. If the old ones break inside, you may end up having parts grind up against the inside surface of the rotor hat and cause binding, and damage.
300C... A Demon In Gentleman's Clothing...
300C SRT 8... Pure Evil Dressed to the Nine's...
"Ever notice how you come across somebody once in a while you shouldn't have ****ed with? That's me." Clint Eastwood as Walt Kowalski in Gran Torino.
Anyone got any advice for removing the drum?
The brake is not set, I removed the caliper, I removed lug clips, wailed on the damn thing with a BFH...no movement at alll...
My wife says I never listen to her...or something like that.
If the brake linings have separated from the shoes, they may have jammed things up so go slow.
Predator, CAI, MDS indicator, ESP/BAS defeat switch, Tranzformer, blacked out wire mesh grille, smoked and flashing side markers, 9005 2400k 65W fogs, Euro rear fogs, debadged and demolded, 255/45/20 Nitto 420's, Boss 338 wheels, painted calipers. Glovebox & cup holder LED Mod. Blastin Bob 6db reso delete pipes. Euro LED side signal repeaters, 55/35 window tint, BT catch can. Color matched tail lights. Custom front lip. LED interior lighting. Lowered on BCR Coilovers.
So, I was finally able to break free the driver's side hub. This is the side that I applied penetrating oil to a week ago...I used a BIGGER BFH this time.
Didn't have to worry about the linings separating from the shoe...There was absolutely zero material left on the shoe....no wonder the damn things didn't work!
Got the new shoes in on that side...no problemo
Now having a tough time with the shotgun side...put on some penetrating oil, will let it sit 'til the after rain blows through and then try wailing on it again.
Still can't break the shotgun side loose....even let it sit overnight with penetrating oil...no dice.
Put it all back together...figure I'll drive it for a week and see what happens next weekend.
2 BIG blows with the BFH and it broke loose today. Yay!! I guess it takes a week for penetrating oil to penetrate 7 years and 170K miles worth of rust.
I've been reading through this thread because when I did the rear suspension upgrades on my car( eibach springs and sway bar, koni str8 shocks) I also found the ebrake linings separated from the shoes. I did not remove the rear hub assembly, swore like a sailor getting it all back together. Now the ebrake doesn't work at all! Press it down all the way and it does nothing to stop the car. I used to have a 63 Nova with drum brakes for a long time so I got pretty good at adjusting shoes to the drum. I pretty much followed the same technique here. After reading several posts that seem to have the same issue as I do, I'm wondering if the ebrake cable is stretched and if there is an adjustment on it or do they just get replaced. What do you think?
i wish they never would have taken away the vehicle profile from post headers.