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  1. #1
    DrgnWagn's Avatar
    DrgnWagn is offline Veteran Lurker
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    Brake job how-to

    Got a shake in the brakes at 30,000 and figure its a good time to swap rotors and pads for something better, and probably paint the calipers. Done a buch of brake jobs on older, non-ABS GM stuff, but never anything like the magnum. ANyone know of a good how-to, since I can't seem to find an LX Chilton's or Haynes?

    Also looking for anybody else's mistakes, so I can learn from yours instead of mine.
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  2. #2
    fnkychkn's Avatar
    fnkychkn is online now rain dance maggie
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    pm'd ya cause the graphics won't post. if you can figure out how to post them, by all means, apply yourself.
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  3. #3
    EXTREME's Avatar
    EXTREME is online now Yes, that is my fast driving award.
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    if you can pm or email me the pics i can host them and post them up.
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    EXTREME's Avatar
    EXTREME is online now Yes, that is my fast driving award.
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    from FSM:



    REMOVAL

    NOTE: Before proceeding, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES - WARNING)(Refer to 5 - BRAKES - CAUTION).
    1. Raise and support vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
    NOTE: Perform steps 2 through 6 on each side of the vehicle.


    2.
    Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
    NOTE: In some cases, it may be necessary to retract caliper piston in its bore a small amount in order to provide sufficient clearance between shoes and rotor to easily remove caliper from knuckle. This can usually be accomplished before guide pin bolts are removed by grasping rear of caliper and pulling outward working with guide pins, thus retracting piston. Never push on piston directly as it may get damaged.


    3.
    Remove Lower caliper guide pin bolt. To do so, hold the guide pin (3) stationary while turning bolt (1).


    4. Rotate caliper upward (1), exposing brake pads (2 and 5). Use care not to overextend brake hose when doing this or damage may occur. </B>
    5. Remove inboard (2) and outboard (5) brake pads from caliper adapter (4).
    6. If necessary, remove anti-rattle clips (3) from upper and lower abutments of adapter (4).


    INSTALLATION

    NOTE: Perform steps 1 through 7 on each side of the vehicle.

    1. Completely retract caliper piston(s) back into bore(s) of caliper. To do so:
    1. Remove fluid reservoir cap.
    2. Use hand pressure or a C-clamp may be used to retract piston, first placing a wood block over piston(s) before installing C-clamp to avoid damaging piston(s).
    3. Install fluid reservoir cap.


    2. If removed, attach anti-rattle clips (3) to upper and lower abutments of adapter (4).
    3. Install NEW inboard (2) and outboard (5) brake pads on caliper adapter (4). NEW Inboard and outboard pads are interchangeable.
    4. Push caliper guide pins into caliper adapter to clear caliper mounting bosses when installing.
    5. Rotate caliper downward, aligning upper mounting boss with lower guide pin.


    6. Install Upper caliper guide pin bolt (1). While holding guide pin (3) stationary tighten bolt to 60 N·m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.


    7. Install tire and wheel assembly (1). Tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 150 N·m (110 ft. lbs.) torque. (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - INSTALLATION)
    8. Lower vehicle.
    9. Pump brake pedal several times to set pads to caliper and brake rotor.



    10. Check and adjust brake fluid level in reservoir (1). (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE) CAUTION: When NEW brake pads have been installed, keep in mind that braking effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first brake applications following installation.
    11. Road test vehicle making several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat brake shoes.
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  5. #5
    DrgnWagn's Avatar
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    Thanks man - the only thing clearer than that would be you over here doing it for me.
    ________________________________________________
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    '04 5.4 F-150 FX4
    '78 Camaro Type LT
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  6. #6
    henry's Avatar
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    If you're going to change the rotors, the entire caliper can be removed as an assembly with two bolts that attach the caliper adapter to the steering knuckle.
    Remember to torque the bolts properly when you reinstall them.

  7. #7
    QwykBlue8 is offline Mmm, beer...
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    Question Rotors

    What brand of rotors are you going with?

    Thanks,

    Joe
    FREEDOM ISN'T FREE


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  8. #8
    DMAG's Avatar
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    Copied to Knowledge Base. Thanks Funky and Extreme!
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    flhthemi is offline Steve
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    This is the kinda stuff that makes this place special. Don't ya just love it!


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  10. #10
    EXTREME's Avatar
    EXTREME is online now Yes, that is my fast driving award.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMAG
    Copied to Knowledge Base. Thanks Funky and Extreme!
    More than happy to help out!!
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  11. #11
    DrgnWagn's Avatar
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    Don't know what brand. Been thinking of switching to rims with thinner spokes for a while, so probably something drilled or slotted. Any recommendations on rotors?
    ________________________________________________
    '05 Magnum R/T
    '04 5.4 F-150 FX4
    '78 Camaro Type LT
    '68 Wife
    '40 Ford Deluxe Streetrod

  12. #12
    roaringmouse's Avatar
    roaringmouse is offline 2005 300C
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrgnWagn
    Don't know what brand. Been thinking of switching to rims with thinner spokes for a while, so probably something drilled or slotted. Any recommendations on rotors?
    I went with Disc Italia for my 300c found here:

    http://www.brakeworld.com/default.asp

  13. #13
    DrgnWagn's Avatar
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    Had them long? Good fit / easy install?
    ________________________________________________
    '05 Magnum R/T
    '04 5.4 F-150 FX4
    '78 Camaro Type LT
    '68 Wife
    '40 Ford Deluxe Streetrod

  14. #14
    roaringmouse's Avatar
    roaringmouse is offline 2005 300C
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrgnWagn
    Had them long? Good fit / easy install?
    I installed them about 2.5 weeks ago. The fit and install were both great. Here is the link to my original installation post. Warning large pics.

    New Rotors and Painted Calipers on my 300C - not 56k friendly

  15. #15
    henry's Avatar
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    Drilled rotors look nice, but I'm not a fan.

    If they are not properly manufactured cross drilling actually reduces the strength of the rotor. It reduces braking surface area, too. Sure they help evacuate gases from super heated pads more effectively but honestly, how many of us actually brake hard enough in day to day driving to induce off-gassing and the brake fade related to it?

    If you drive in such a manner that you feel the need to have drilled or slotted rotors only the very best rotors are advisable.

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