Break in period

[Mischief]

OK, I've heard FROM a couple different sources that Dodge puts in a 1500 mile break in period in the computer. Basically the car runs in a de-tuned mode for the first 1500 miles, then switches over to a full power mode after that. Since our car has only 150 miles on her, I have no idea. I have a friend with a Dyno in his shop, I'm tempted to put the R/T on it now and see what it's putting out now, then do it again after 1500 miles. Has anyone else heard of this break in procedure? Is it a bunch of BS?

[schmeky]

To accomplish this, the ignition curve would have to retarded several degrees, and/or the fuel delivery would have to be (probably) leaned out, or the rpm potential would have to be restricted, via the on-board comuter.

I took delivery of my RT with 92 miles. With about 110 miles on the odometer, the engine saw red line and was pullin' like a bitch @ 110 mph in a passing situation. Modern engines require little break-in. Tri-metal INSERT bearings conform almost immediately upon initial LOAD (rod & main & cam bearings), cranks finished on modern equipment are micro polished, roller lifters/cam have NO break-in, and molybedenum coated rings (top compression) combined with a super fined cross-hatch finished cylinder wall (400-600) seal very quickly. Valve stems and guides need no break-in. The bottom line is, don't sweat it, the engine only sees the upper RPM range for only a few seconds at a time in most situations. ENJOY!!

[rcktpwrd]

According to the info in this thread, taken FROM the manual the break in is only 300 miles...

http://www.dodgemagnum.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=693

[thehemi]

I always drive nicely for the first 500 miles on any vehicle.
Let the engine get seated so that it will last a good while...

As for the computer limiting the car during break-in, DCX
folks have told me that there is no such system in place.

[Glazeworld]

That's the great thing about buying my car in Detroit. By the time I got it all the way back to Cincinnati, it was broken in! Let the good times begin!

[DMAG]

That's the great thing about buying my car in Detroit. By the time I got it all the way back to Cincinnati, it was broken in! Let the good times begin!

[MAGGY]

I am a firm beleiver of breaking in the car the way you will drive it. On my mustang, i was at the track with 300 miles on it watching my 1/4 times constantly decrease. I want my engine to break in how it will be used and that is to the max. I will change the oil to synthetic after the first 3000 by then she will be well loose. Besides, 10 years ago i used to be a lot porter at the dealership, where we used to "race" the brand new cars!!!! Someone at the dealer is not taking it so easy on your car.

[schmeky]

MAGGY,

My kinda' guy!! There are to many old school pussy's that think modern engines are made FROM glass and machined like it was the 60's. Anyone here actually seen a 600 grit finished cylinder bore? How about a radiused micro-polished crank journal? Know about molybedenum disulfied coated compression rings? And lastly, the valve train is the most complex area of an engine with clearances running as tight as .001" or less. There is NO break-in on valve trains!!

Enjoy the engine, and as MAGGY says, break it in quick (300 miles tops) and drive it like you stole it!! It will run better in the long run. At 8,000 plus miles mine runs strong and gets "aired" out at least once every other day.

[hemi dawg]

An old neighbor once told me, "Break 'em in fast, and they stay fast."
I have followed that advice with my last 6 cars and it is true.

[BlackRT]

I have personally built half a dozen small blocks in my previous life as a muscle car fanatic and I can attest to the advice of driving them hard FROM the get go. It seems to work. Two I babied and they ate oil and eventually spun bearings. Two I hammered and they ran hard until on one the gas solenoid on the NOS broke and the engine ran lean and blew and the other was stolen but am sure that someone is enjoying to this day.

Also, here is an excellent write up on why this is. Seems to make sense to me.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[one_raven]

I think the engine itself is not the only consideration.

Other aspects of a "break in" period have been addressed on this thread.

[Dr. Chem]

im still in the break in period... about 230 miles so far.... ive got to drive about 300 miles over the next two days on highways through some mountains (some inclines last 8 miles that would require revs near 5000-5500 rpm to maintain the speedlimit... advice please?

do i ram the car up the mountains at high speed/revs? keep the speed low enough so it doesnt have to rev high?? what do i do...

[mhigham]

No break in period like the good ole days. Just a bit easy on it for a few hundred miles then go for it. I always let mine warm up though before getting on it, I think thats more important than break-in.

Mike

[mhigham]

im still in the break in period... about 230 miles so far.... ive got to drive about 300 miles over the next two days on highways through some mountains (some inclines last 8 miles that would require revs near 5000-5500 rpm to maintain the speedlimit... advice please?

do i ram the car up the mountains at high speed/revs? keep the speed low enough so it doesnt have to rev high?? what do i do...

I don't think you will be revving like you think. You can pull some very steep hills without even a downshift.

Mike

[t500hps]

RUN IT!!!
I installed mods and was running sub 5 sec 0-60's with the second tank of gas in my SRT. These things can take it....if not, they wouldn't last as long as they do.....and I've seen the inside of more than one engine.

(anyone see the problem with this one???)