Guys I keep on reading about timming sets (timming chains) etc but this is simply mentioned when talking about replacing a cam.
My question is whats the maintnance schedual on this and does it need to be replaced on a basically stock hemi engin?
2005 300C, custom CAI, Trinity tuned(600$), huntington bolsa stagered 20X9 & 20 X 10, Nitto 420 255/45/20, BC racing coilovers, SPC ajustable control arms and rear camber kit ............, that should take care of 2012 HOPEFULLY busted mod money budget by hmmmmmmm 2000$
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it a timing chaine it will last a long time you can put 350 000km before you need to change it it just get me loose but by not very much but if you change your cam do put a new one in and a oil pump to
Hey Yanick, long time no see... Is the 300 gone?
Ben
yes it's gone but I'm in love with my jeep
no cam install plans but was wondering if the chain needed to be changed thanks for the quick answers
Depends on how much you beat your engine. The 5.7 chain set and particularly the tensioner are prone to failure under extreme stress. There are quite a few people who have changed to the 6.1 setup.
Having said that, Yanick is right. They last a really long time if not beaten. Its not like the old days (60's) where 120 k miles meant a timing chain change.
Pedator, CAI, MDS indicator, ESP/BAS defeat switch, Tranzformer, blacked out wire mesh grille, smoked and flashing side markers, 9005 2400k 65W fogs, Euro rear fogs, debadged and demolded, 255/45/20 Nitto 420's, Boss 338 wheels, painted calipers. Glovebox & cup holder LED Mod. Blastin Bob 6db reso delete pipes. Euro LED side signal repeaters, 55/35 window tint, BT catch can. Color matched tail lights. Custom front lip. LED interior lighting.
Next: Lower with BCR Coilovers.
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2008 Charger R/T R&T
QuantumBlue • DiabloSport InTune • TranZformer • NoESP • Billet Technology Catch Can • Legmaker Air Hammer • Flowmaster American Thunder • Hankook V12 Evo • Factory Reproductions 20'' SRT Replicas • R1 Concepts Rotors • PosiQuiet Pads • Sequential Tail Lights • OEM HID Projector Headlights • Smoked HID Fog Lights • Daytona Grille • Debadged & Demolded
hey guys I need a little help to chime in on something
my trinity is showing this morning some LT knock retard : 0.5 from 1500 to 1800 rpm light throtle 1 from 1800 to 2000 rpm and 1.5 from 2000 to 2300 rpm
my adjustements is -2 for the first fuel range and 0 for the other 2 at WOT which normaly works really really well and barely gives me any short term knock
temperature outside is rain + 18C but humide
well this morning clear skys and not so humide and once the car warmed up to about 204 the knock started again so went from 2 deg lean to 5 deg rich and see what that does on the way home
I'll log my full ride home since I hit different situations (traffic/50 zones/100 zones hills etc.) and see what is going on.
does anyone here have a formula that could help me out or a way to proceed to slowly dial this in ?
5 rich still the ame knock same pressure on gas pedale same RPM's
10 rich still the same thing
any help or advice would be great guys
I wish I could help Mike but this is not my department. Have you tried DiabloSport forums or LXF's general forums?
Im with Eric on this one, I have never played with the tunes apart from the basic thermostat settings etc, I would ask the questions on the Diablo forum, Im sure somebody with the correct knowledge would lead you in the right direction
2008 Superbee #417.. Magnaflow CatBack,Blue BTcatch can, Predator 91 octane CAI tune, Airaid CAI with scoop, 180 jet Thermostat,2010 color matched custom rear lights, color matched headlights with 3 ring blue halo's, color matched side markers and more....


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