How to install a new differential/axles

[1fastsedan]

I had a few people ask me for pics of doing my diff swap yesterday. We took a few along the way, so here is one stop shopping for putting an 09 Getrag LSD diff, 09 axles/hubs, and an 09 drive shaft into an 05-08 SRT. Install text from Erik (Hemi31’s) excellent axle swap thread.

Parts:
Qty. Part number
2 Hubs 4779572AA
1 Left axle 4578733AB
1 Right axle 4578732AC
1 226mm LSD Diff with 3.06 gear 5038293AD
1 09 driveshaft (Charger/300/Magnum length) 5038864AB

You'll also need a new pinion bolt. M10 1.50 pitch 150mm long.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91290a558/=1ne1hz

If you’re going to use an 09 driveshaft, you’ll also need 3 M12 1.25 pitch nuts (I used nylocks). The new driveshaft uses different bolts to attach to the diff. You may also be able take out the new bolts and just re-use the T60 bolts, but we didn't try.

The new diff uses 75-90 gear oil, NOT the 75-140 used on the 215mm SRT diff. The Getrag diff comes filled, but you’ll need a liter to top it off.

Tools:
Strong 3/8" Ratchet and breaker bar
21mm short socket
18mm short socket
15 mm deep socket
13mm deep socket
1 1/4" socket and 1/2" ratchet for axle nut
18" 3/8 drive extension
3/8 drive swivel
E12 Torx socket, 3/8” drive
5/16" allen key or socket
18mm box wrench
T-60 Torx socket
large flat blade screwdriver or small prybar.
small flat blade screwdriver
small hammer
small piece of soft pine.
4 Jack stands and a good Jack......2-3 ton is preferable.

Start by getting the car in the air. I like to put the first two jack stands in the rear pockets on the rocker panels. Get it up as high as possible.
Next the exhaust needs to come off(in one piece).Loosen the forward clamps, remove the center brace, use a little wd-40 on the center rubbers and pry them off the exhaust hooks, then remove the four 13mm bolts holding the rear hangers while someone holds the tips up. If you’re by your self you can let them down.....just put some cardboard under the tips and polished parts.
Now wiggle the exhaust back and forth till it slides off the cat pipes and pull it out from under the car and out of the way.
(my exhaust is all welded, so we took the mid pipes off too)



Ok.......get the rear wheels off. Set the E-Brake. Using the 1 1/4 socket remove the axle nuts.
Now jack up the control arms slowly so they are horizontal to the ground and stick the jack stands under them.....this needs to be done to make room for the axles to swing.
Put the transmission in neutral so you can turn the driveshaft. Release E-brake.

So now that your completely committed(or should be)......grab the T-60 Torx and the 18mm box wrench and take out the four driveshaft bolts on the differential side of the yolk(silver ones).....you will need to pry the driveshaft back from the pinion. Move the shaft out of the way.



Place the jack under the differential and bring the pad up so it just makes contact. Using the 5/16 allen socket remove the allen bolt from the front of the differential.
Now get the 21mm ratchet and the breaker bar. The two remaining bolts are in the cradle right in front of the spare tire well......there is only enough room to barely get the ratchet in. You need to take 3-4 pulls and switch sides......work it back and forth like this walking the differential forward till both bolts are out(this is the biggest PITA both removal and replacement).
Once the differential is free you want to lower the jack slowly, the differential will want to go forward as it goes down so walk the jack with it. Stop the jack about halfway down. You should now be ready to use the prybar to pop the axle out of the differential. You only need to move it about a half inch with the prybar, pry on the axle flange not the seal flange. Do the drivers side first. Once the axle is sliding freely you need to wiggle the differential around till you can move the axle out far enough to angle completely out of the differential, then slide it out of the hub. Now you can do the passenger side easily.



Lower the differential to the floor. Pull the axles out of the hubs.



Replacing the hubs for heavy duty or 09 half shafts:
Make sure you have the studs pressed into the hubs before installation on car.

While the axles are out of the car using an 18mm socket remove the caliper and hang out of the way with wire. Remove the rotor. Using the 18" extension,E12 3/8" socket and swivel remove the four bolts holding the hub on from the backside of the knuckle.......remove stock hub



and replace with heavy duty hub. Reinstall bolts and torque to 50 lbft.
Reinstall rotor and caliper.(70lbft)



Slide half shafts into the hubs(Oil or anti-sieze the splines) and install and tighten axle nuts.(157 LbFt)Remember, left side is short.



Raise the differential to the removal height. Oil the splines and slide the passenger side axle into the differential and seat it. Carefully work the drivers side axle in(watch the seal) and raise the jack till axle is all the way in. Make sure it's seated.

Raise the differential back into position and carefully get the 21mm bolts started(I use antiseze here).Make sure you don't cross thread these.....if your unsure STOP!!

Tighten the 21mm bolts(162 lbft) and then replace the allen bolt(48lbft)
Next reinstall the driveshaft and tighten bolts(43lbft)
remove the jack stands under the control arms.



Slide the exhaust back under the car. Hold the front of the system up and put the brace back on......this will help if your alone. I will use a strap and tie the rear of the exhaust up so I can get it back on the cat pips......once in place put the center rubbers back on the pipes, remove strap, then install the 4 rear mounts, and finally retighten the forward clamps.
Put your wheels back on and let the car down.

[metgo]

Very nice.

[1fastsedan]

Very nice.

Ask and ye shall receive...

[Bud]

Great writeup Adam. Beans to you!!!

[1fastsedan]

Great writeup Adam. Beans to you!!!

Hemi31 did most of the writing, I just cut, pasted, and added pics. But thanks! I hope that it helps someone along the way.

[MOL SRT-8]

Awesome job. Looks like a fun day of modding.

[Desertcharger]

Good info- thanks!

[slideway]

Nice work, Well laid out! And nice shop Cam!
btw- The liter of gear fluid is just for topping off perposes if nessesary correct?
Also I've come to find that the 226mm getrag is noisey bugger compaired to the stock 215mm unit, Whine's like a big old truck rear!

[1fastsedan]

Nice work, Well laid out! And nice shop Cam!
btw- The liter of gear fluid is just for topping off perposes if nessesary correct?
Also I've come to find that the 226mm getrag is noisey bugger compaired to the stock 215mm unit, Whine's like a big old truck rear!

Correct. Mine took about 1/2 a liter to top off.

I had a little gear whine on the way home from Cam's, but then the next morning I went out and ran 10 figure 8's, 10 tight right circles, and 10 left circles. Now she's all broken in and I'm pretty sure that the gear whine is gone.

[budoboy]

I didn't have any gear whine that I can hear but I have Zoomers ...

[slideway]

Correct. Mine took about 1/2 a liter to top off.

I had a little gear whine on the way home from Cam's, but then the next morning I went out and ran 10 figure 8's, 10 tight right circles, and 10 left circles. Now she's all broken in and I'm pretty sure that the gear whine is gone.

I didn't have any gear whine that I can hear but I have Zoomers ...

I did do the tight left and right circle's. I'm going to recheck the clearence on my corsa's driver side pipe, I now hear a sound akin to differental morse code! lol, I think it's just barely touching. If it's not that I'll put the interior back in and turn up the stereo!

[wbglider]

Excellent writeup & pics! Beans!

[stitchmonkey]

Great write up! this should help when I get ready for mine.

[torRed #1169]

Isn't this write up from Erics thread ???

[nhdave]

Isn't this write up from Erics thread ???

Hemi31 did most of the writing, I just cut, pasted, and added pics.

He credited accordingly..