Converter advice

[SLICKHER1]

Brake Stall vs. Flash Stall:

Flash stall is the maximum your engine's torque can stall a torque converter. In essence flash stall and full stall are nearly identical. If you had a transbrake, you could find full stall by putting your foot to the floor and reading your tach. For argument sake, let's say we're testing a 3500 stall. If you had a transbrake, you would see around 3500 rpms. If your motor was at idle and then you suddenly floored the throttle, you might see slightly more (maybe 100 rpm more) stall for a half second as the momentum of the motor's internals "flashed" the converter a small bit above its true stall rating.

Brake stall, on the other hand is a very subjective thing. For most, it's the highest stall you can achieve before your tires spin. This varies greatly based on many factors: Traction, gearing, brake clamping force, and engine torque. With a 3500, I may only be able to get 2200rpm "brake stall" on the street with street tires...any higher rpm and the motor torque would overwhelm the tires. But if I was at the track with racing slicks on the starting line, I might be able to get 3200 brake stall before the motor torque overwhelmed the tires. See...brake stall is very subjective.

[SLICKHER1]

More info here.
http://www.converter.cc/tech_talk/

[InferAl]

Well I just installed Builder Bills 4400 stall TC in my car yesterday and it drives exactly the same as my Builder Bill 4000 stall on the street.... If there is 400 more rpm difference then this TC is the "Tits".... Feels like a stock car but flashed to about 3700-3900 at the track... c'mon doesnt get much better than that IMO.

You had it to the track already, that was fast what were the 60's like

[aslcharger08]

Brake Stall vs. Flash Stall:

Flash stall is the maximum your engine's torque can stall a torque converter. In essence flash stall and full stall are nearly identical. If you had a transbrake, you could find full stall by putting your foot to the floor and reading your tach. For argument sake, let's say we're testing a 3500 stall. If you had a transbrake, you would see around 3500 rpms. If your motor was at idle and then you suddenly floored the throttle, you might see slightly more (maybe 100 rpm more) stall for a half second as the momentum of the motor's internals "flashed" the converter a small bit above its true stall rating.

Brake stall, on the other hand is a very subjective thing. For most, it's the highest stall you can achieve before your tires spin. This varies greatly based on many factors: Traction, gearing, brake clamping force, and engine torque. With a 3500, I may only be able to get 2200rpm "brake stall" on the street with street tires...any higher rpm and the motor torque would overwhelm the tires. But if I was at the track with racing slicks on the starting line, I might be able to get 3200 brake stall before the motor torque overwhelmed the tires. See...brake stall is very subjective.

Thats some pretty good information there......I was worried about losing some top end with a higher stall converter. I was thinking either a 2800 or 3000stall, I really didnt want to go any higher then that to begin with and now that makes me want to consider the 2800 even more.

[SLICKHER1]

Thats some pretty good information there......I was worried about losing some top end with a higher stall converter. I was thinking either a 2800 or 3000stall, I really didnt want to go any higher then that to begin with and now that makes me want to consider the 2800 even more.

Stall speed doesnt affect top end, STR does.

[aslcharger08]

Stall speed doesnt affect top end, STR does.

So basically you need to find a high stall converter with a low STR........

[SLICKHER1]

Call PI, BB, EDGE, APS, TCI, PTC, ATI and just start gathering opinions and advice to help educate you so that you can form a better idea of what is best for you.

[aslcharger08]

Call PI, BB, EDGE, APS, TCI, PTC, ATI and just start gathering opinions and advice to help educate you so that you can form a better idea of what is best for you.

Alright cool sounds good.......now I feel a lot more comfortable making a decision about getting the right converter.

[USCG Charger]

You had it to the track already, that was fast what were the 60's like

I guess u need the read the entire post Al... I said "If"......

[USCG Charger]

I have had more TC in my car than anyone I know... 5 to be exact... each one a higher stall than the last.... IMO with my car higher stall is better.... b ut of course I have different gears and different cam than most.

[USCG Charger]

Well that maybe my problem then, cause on the 1-2shift at the track she blogs some and then I'm moving with no problems?? I thought it could be my tune, my have to look at that now, damnit

Usually if u have an incorrect TC stall in ur car then it will happen b4 u shift differect off the line is where the bog will occur.... my first 2800 stall i was bogging in the first 20 ft of my runs then it would run like hell..... but with these cars the 60' is everything.

[hemiwagn]

For example: Converter A with a claimed stall torque ratio of 2.5 would typically have an efficiency of around 90% at high RPMs (5,000 plus). That means 300 flywheel horsepower would translate to 270 horsepower at the transmission input-shaft. Converter B with a stall torque ratio of 1.6 has efficiency in the 97% range. That means a 300 horsepower engine would transmit 291 horsepower to the transmission input-shaft: A gain of 21 horsepower!

So will STR have an effect on Dyno readings?

Great stuff here Slick - thanks for posting!

[SLICKHER1]

So will STR have an effect on Dyno readings?

Great stuff here Slick - thanks for posting!

It shouldnt. On the dyno, the converter is locked basically giving you a 1.0 STR. The STR only affects engine output while unlocked.