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Thread: Turbo help

  1. #46
    MagnumRT05's Avatar
    MagnumRT05 is offline ***Drop Beats, Not Bombs***
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    Looks good. That ground clearance scares me though...
    '05 Magnum RT: 392 Twin TC70 Turbo Build



  2. #47
    torred0319 is offline LX Padiwan
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnumRT05 View Post
    Looks good. That ground clearance scares me though...
    Ground clearance is not to bad. With my kw's all the way down it is still 4.5 inches off the ground. But I cant run that low because I keep draging the front bumper so I keep it up a little about 1 inch lower than stock. That gives me 5.5 to the feed tube and 6 to the bottom of the compressor. In 2 years I haven bottomed it out yet
    Starting over with 9 inch

  3. #48
    CWHFSR's Avatar
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    I like the setup with the wg going right into the exhaust tubes.

  4. #49
    srt007 is offline LX Guru
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    ground clearance isnt bad at all with that kit. the placement of the turbo is right between the axle and where the oem muffler sits. it sits side by side with the rear tire so if u go over a speed bump or somthing similar you'll never hit cause when the wheel goes up and over the speed bump the turbo goes up with it.
    now if theres a manhole sticking out in the street im not sure how much clearance u have but if some exhausts get damaged im sure you still have to be carefull with this kit or any kit with the tubos mounted under the car. the biggest issue i found with this kit was the amount of 90 degree turns there was on the cold side of the plumbing. this causes major restriction but the design was made with clearance in mind. so with a big turbo you can pump high horsepower but theres only so big you can go with this kit cause of space.you can still pull some good numbers with this kit. just my opion here but i would look into uprading the wastegate and bov to something with a little more well known brand

  5. #50
    torred0319 is offline LX Padiwan
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    Quote Originally Posted by srt007 View Post
    ground clearance isnt bad at all with that kit. the placement of the turbo is right between the axle and where the oem muffler sits. it sits side by side with the rear tire so if u go over a speed bump or somthing similar you'll never hit cause when the wheel goes up and over the speed bump the turbo goes up with it.
    now if theres a manhole sticking out in the street im not sure how much clearance u have but if some exhausts get damaged im sure you still have to be carefull with this kit or any kit with the tubos mounted under the car. the biggest issue i found with this kit was the amount of 90 degree turns there was on the cold side of the plumbing. this causes major restriction but the design was made with clearance in mind. so with a big turbo you can pump high horsepower but theres only so big you can go with this kit cause of space.you can still pull some good numbers with this kit. just my opion here but i would look into uprading the wastegate and bov to something with a little more well known brand
    BOV = tial Q
    Waistgate = turbosmart progate 50
    I know I think the waistgate + the wiring connector for the meth pump = new engine!
    I'm not sure how bad the bends are in the tubing not ideal but i seen less than 3/4 psi difference in pressure from compressor outlet to intake manifold with the old setup that is less pressure drop than most intercoolers

  6. #51
    srt007 is offline LX Guru
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    Quote Originally Posted by torred0319 View Post
    BOV = tial Q
    Waistgate = turbosmart progate 50
    I know I think the waistgate + the wiring connector for the meth pump = new engine!
    I'm not sure how bad the bends are in the tubing not ideal but i seen less than 3/4 psi difference in pressure from compressor outlet to intake manifold with the old setup that is less pressure drop than most intercoolers
    i guess since i ran a front mount intercooler along with that kit it must have added to the restriction. what size of turbo are u running?

  7. #52
    torred0319 is offline LX Padiwan
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    Quote Originally Posted by srt007 View Post
    i guess since i ran a front mount intercooler along with that kit it must have added to the restriction. what size of turbo are u running?
    well the turbo on the car is for "testing purposes" I may buy it if i like it but it is a turbonetics hp72 .96ar I wa told it will support 700hp?

  8. #53
    srt007 is offline LX Guru
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    sweeet! when are u taking her in for a dyno tune?

  9. #54
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    My original 300C prototype was lowered 1.5" and clearance was never an issue. Even with a T4 T70 - T76 turbo it has not been an issue. If the vehicle is bagged, and you can set your frame on the ground, your probably going to touch.

    Dumping the wastegate into the exhaust is one of the hardest aspects of fabrication, it has to be exact, and needs the flex joint in it for alignment and expansion.

    It is a bit quieter that way versus an air dump, but doing so will also increase turbine side back pressure "some".

    I am working on fabbing a system for my 5.7 300C right now, and it will have all the previous changes incorporated, and I am looking at a few other changes. One that I am looking at, is going full 3" out the drivers side through a resonator/tip combination, and routing the wastegate through separate 2.5" tubing through a resonator/tip combination to match symmetry on the passenger side rear fascia.

    It will be running a T4/T4 Masterpower T70 turbo, same as used on the 5.7 Cherokee Limited system which was around 525 HP at the crank on 7 psi. Pretty much maxed out for a stock internals 5.7 engine.

    The original system on the 5.7, even with the much smaller T3/T4 hybrid turbo still put down 411 RWHP and 500 RWTQ. Yes it did experience boost fall off in the upper rpm ranges which led to the piping changes and switch over to a T4/T4 turbo.

    But, even though it had boost fall off, it produced higher numbers all the way to the 5250 rpm HP/TQ crossover then obviously a stock 5.7, also a stock 6.1, and a Vortech stock internals 5.7 setup.

    The Dyno numbers for the four were;

    Stock 5.7 - 270 RWHP, 315 RWTQ
    Stock 6.1 - 354 RWHP, 350 RWTQ
    Stock 5.7 w/Vortech - 425 RWHP, 425 RWTQ (7 psi)
    Stock 5.7 w/NCTS system - 411 RWHP, 500 RWTQ (6.5 psi)

    The numbers alone don't tell the whole story, the Vortech peaked at 425 RWHP for about 200 rpms immediately after the 5250 cross point, the fell off.

    The NCTS turbo held 411 RWHP nearly flat-line from 4350 rpm to the 5250 rpm cross point.

    The attached image shows a clear picture of the results, all run on the same Dynojet with the same dyno operator. The other three were punched around 2800 rpm, mine was not punched till 3300 rpms (he wanted to observe the part throttle boost fuel correction via the iEMS3 before he went WOT).

    This was an impromptu dyno pull, 15 minutes after a 3 hour interstate trip, so mine was definitely heat soaked. Tuning was via the iEMS3.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    North Coast Turbo Systems LLC


    Home of the fastest 5.7 Cherokee, 13.39@104.62 MPH

    All stock internals 5.7 Hemi with a bolt on turbo, Tuned via the iEMS3

    Sharadon Performance Valve Body


  10. #55
    torred0319 is offline LX Padiwan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim@NCTSLLC View Post
    My original 300C prototype was lowered 1.5" and clearance was never an issue. Even with a T4 T70 - T76 turbo it has not been an issue. If the vehicle is bagged, and you can set your frame on the ground, your probably going to touch.

    Dumping the wastegate into the exhaust is one of the hardest aspects of fabrication, it has to be exact, and needs the flex joint in it for alignment and expansion.

    It is a bit quieter that way versus an air dump, but doing so will also increase turbine side back pressure "some".

    I am working on fabbing a system for my 5.7 300C right now, and it will have all the previous changes incorporated, and I am looking at a few other changes. One that I am looking at, is going full 3" out the drivers side through a resonator/tip combination, and routing the wastegate through separate 2.5" tubing through a resonator/tip combination to match symmetry on the passenger side rear fascia.

    It will be running a T4/T4 Masterpower T70 turbo, same as used on the 5.7 Cherokee Limited system which was around 525 HP at the crank on 7 psi. Pretty much maxed out for a stock internals 5.7 engine.

    The original system on the 5.7, even with the much smaller T3/T4 hybrid turbo still put down 411 RWHP and 500 RWTQ. Yes it did experience boost fall off in the upper rpm ranges which led to the piping changes and switch over to a T4/T4 turbo.

    But, even though it had boost fall off, it produced higher numbers all the way to the 5250 rpm HP/TQ crossover then obviously a stock 5.7, also a stock 6.1, and a Vortech stock internals 5.7 setup.

    The Dyno numbers for the four were;

    Stock 5.7 - 270 RWHP, 315 RWTQ
    Stock 6.1 - 354 RWHP, 350 RWTQ
    Stock 5.7 w/Vortech - 425 RWHP, 425 RWTQ (7 psi)
    Stock 5.7 w/NCTS system - 411 RWHP, 500 RWTQ (6.5 psi)

    The numbers alone don't tell the whole story, the Vortech peaked at 425 RWHP for about 200 rpms immediately after the 5250 cross point, the fell off.

    The NCTS turbo held 411 RWHP nearly flat-line from 4350 rpm to the 5250 rpm cross point.

    The attached image shows a clear picture of the results, all run on the same Dynojet with the same dyno operator. The other three were punched around 2800 rpm, mine was not punched till 3300 rpms (he wanted to observe the part throttle boost fuel correction via the iEMS3 before he went WOT).

    This was an impromptu dyno pull, 15 minutes after a 3 hour interstate trip, so mine was definitely heat soaked. Tuning was via the iEMS3.

    I never have had any clearance issues other than getting all the pipes in the perfect spot so it doesn't rattle. I have never bottomed the turbo out!

    I really liked the dumping the waistgate back in so i cut it off the old u bend put on the new one it only took a little modification.

    mine ran 375rwhp @ 426tq dynojet with the super 70 t3t4 with a burnt piston & no meth very similar curve 4000-5250 flat line.

    New 300c????????????
    My egts were high and I found the meth pump wires mine melted at the molex connector and the pump wasn't working but the lite still worked.

  11. #56
    torred0319 is offline LX Padiwan
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    Quote Originally Posted by srt007 View Post
    sweeet! when are u taking her in for a dyno tune?
    I still want to upgrade the fuel system I'm still not sure on the tune I would really like someone to just tune it for me. The iems3 works well for boost correction i can adjust that after a couple trys but I'm not comfortable with timing I'm looking for someone to just tune it right and be done. I have a diablo but I'm not comfortable with a e mail tune so I need to find a good tuner that can make it right

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by torred0319 View Post
    New 300c????????????
    Well new to me, it is an 07 cool vanilla heritage edition. This one I bought, my 06 was a 3 year lease. We missed the 300C so bad that as soon as I found a smoking deal on one, I bought it. Now if I just hadn't sold my Gianelli 20" 10 Flush rims..................

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by torred0319 View Post
    I still want to upgrade the fuel system I'm still not sure on the tune I would really like someone to just tune it for me. The iems3 works well for boost correction i can adjust that after a couple trys but I'm not comfortable with timing I'm looking for someone to just tune it right and be done. I have a diablo but I'm not comfortable with a e mail tune so I need to find a good tuner that can make it right
    Emails are fine Johan tuned my whole thing via emails. And now that he has done plenty of turbo setups since mine, Im sure he has learned alot and can make it pretty spot on within 10 or so tunes. It helps if you can log A/F though and send it to him somehow.

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by torred0319 View Post
    I still want to upgrade the fuel system I'm still not sure on the tune I would really like someone to just tune it for me. The iems3 works well for boost correction i can adjust that after a couple trys but I'm not comfortable with timing I'm looking for someone to just tune it right and be done. I have a diablo but I'm not comfortable with a e mail tune so I need to find a good tuner that can make it right
    I was only pulling about 5-6 degrees max timing at full boost off the stock timing curves, timing is easier to adjust than the fuel curve, just retard until your not getting any significant knock retard. A couple degree spike here and there is nothing, steady or rising knock retard means more needs to be pulled in that rpm band. It is not uncommon to see several degrees knock retard stock, in particular when MDS is engaged.

  15. #60
    torred0319 is offline LX Padiwan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim@NCTSLLC View Post
    I was only pulling about 5-6 degrees max timing at full boost off the stock timing curves, timing is easier to adjust than the fuel curve, just retard until your not getting any significant knock retard. A couple degree spike here and there is nothing, steady or rising knock retard means more needs to be pulled in that rpm band. It is not uncommon to see several degrees knock retard stock, in particular when MDS is engaged.
    I think I had 8 degrees out. I'll have to check as soon as i either get my laptop fixed or replace it. Is IEMS compatible with windows 7?? I really need to pull a bunch of fuel out so i can drive it long trims -20 @ idle now with this engine not sure why different manifold vacuum maybe? under light boost 4 psi afr 10. I havent run mds sense I put the iems on, now I have 6.1 non mds lifters

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