anyone an expert or have a clue how to set it up... just want to verify my settings :D
thanks fellas
anyone an expert or have a clue how to set it up... just want to verify my settings :D
thanks fellas
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do i want to lockout 1st gear ? and also what should my activation and deactavation be setup
and also step 1... should it be 0 0 0 ?
I do not lock out 1st. Mine activates at 2500rpm and deactivates around 6300rpm. Car has the raised shift points to 6000rpm through the Predator.
I have my step 1 set to 0 0 0 and I pickup the signal from the injector. I couldn't get it to work right on the coil pack.![]()
Current mods: Tinted windows / rear spoiler / 20" American Racing RT/S wheels / Toyo Proxes ST 255/45VR20 / Ramair hood style II option 4 / Valentine radar detector / Signalz4u blinking third brake light / DiabloSport Predator / Mopar Long Tube Headers and Hi-flow Cats / SLP Loudmouth I Exhaust / Nitrous Outlet 100 shot / R1Concepts Rotor and Hawk Pads / FRI Sparrow / FRI SS Heads / Protorque Torque Convertor / SLP Underdrive Pulley / Hoosier Drag Radials
i guess i want to make sure it will spray if that makes sense... don how did you test the system ? when setting it up ?
All of my connections for the soleniods on on a terminal block. So I disconnect the soleniods from that.
The yellow wire with the blue connector goes to my window switch.
So with the soleniods disconnected I set my rpm activation to like 100rpm and set my tps without the car running. As soon as I started the car the window switch activated and I could see it work at the terminal block with my multimeter.
Then I adjusted the rpm range up to 2500 but left the tps the same. Had the wife get in the car and rev it up. Once again checked it with the multimeter to make sure it was activating.
Reset the tps setting in step 8 and went for a drive to get the right tps voltage. For this part I put a little indicator light that hooked up to the terminal block and ran it into the inside of the car. The light would light up whenever the window switch would activate.
This is when I found out that the rpm reading off the coil pack wasn't going to work for me. I had to switch to the injector to get my rpm reading. If it wasn't for the indicator light I wouldn't have known I had a problem. Ray at Nitrous Outlet figured out the problem in like 2 seconds.![]()
Current mods: Tinted windows / rear spoiler / 20" American Racing RT/S wheels / Toyo Proxes ST 255/45VR20 / Ramair hood style II option 4 / Valentine radar detector / Signalz4u blinking third brake light / DiabloSport Predator / Mopar Long Tube Headers and Hi-flow Cats / SLP Loudmouth I Exhaust / Nitrous Outlet 100 shot / R1Concepts Rotor and Hawk Pads / FRI Sparrow / FRI SS Heads / Protorque Torque Convertor / SLP Underdrive Pulley / Hoosier Drag Radials
the display will show you what the box is doing
0 = Ready
1 = Activated
L = Gear Lock Out active
the display has 3 characters (0.0.0)
1st is the TPS setting
2nd is the first channel
3rd is the second channel
1.0.0 = WOT active, but outside RPM settings
1.L.0 = WOT active, Gear Lock out active
1.1.0 = WOT active, 1st channel active
0.1.0 = WOT inactive, RPM parameters met for channel 1
RPM can be verified by turning the kit on, then press and hold button #1 with the vehicle running....the display will show the RPM the box is seeing.
0.0.1 = 100 RPM
0.1.0 = 1,000 RPM
1.0.0 = 10,000 RPM
For Sales or Tech support e-mail Ray@nitrodaves.com or call 888-463-2781
94 Pontiac Formula (The Fast Car) http://www.fquick.com/garages/Pontia...mula/1994/676/
Nitrous Wiring Diagrams http://www.fquick.com/garages/Smart/Roadster/2000/3821/


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