I have talked to one other person that this happened to and know of a hand full of others. I don't think it's a common issue but it is still an issue. If you call Arrington they will tell you that they are aware of it. I think the dual pump setup is a good product, there just needs to be a disclaimer that the stock wiring in the fuel hat may not support the current requirements of the system and there needs to be a solution provided, preferably by the product manufacturer. I don't even think it should be free, but there should be one. I would gladly pay a reasonable amount to have my car back on the road. It's just sitting there...staring at me, wanting to go for a drive.
On a brighter note, I have received a couple of PM's from people that want to help me get this figured out. I'll post up what comes of it all.
Last edited by Iceberg62; 05-03-2012 at 10:00 AM.
@Iceberg62: Good to chat with you this afternoon, I'm working with Arrington to get you the parts you need to be back on the road ASAP.
I'm sorry you've had trouble with this system, but like I told you on the phone - we have literally hundreds of these on the roads and neither I nor anyone at Arrington has seen anything like this. While this system does demand a lot from the OEM components, if installed correctly it performs reliably and safely. I'm confident we'll get to the bottom of what happened here and I appreciate your patience.
Mikah is there any bulkhead connector that may be feasible in this application?
07 Charger SRT-8
Procharger Stage II D1SC 8 psi
Arrington dual fuel pump
Ford 80lb injectors
1/4 mile: TBD
12.87 @ 108.83 CAI, 180 Tstat, 93 canned tune, street tires
I do believe, though, that the current this kit pulls at maximum (~23-27 amps) can be safely passed through these pins SO LONG AS the rest of the associated wiring - inside and outside the hat - is done properly. That belief is supported by the many that are running properly around the country (and the world) at this moment. When Jason and I get his situation solved, we'll post the findings here to clear the air.
The best solution is a billet hat, but obviously that pushes the price up well beyond the market this product was intended to support.
Mikah, Nice talking to you yesterday. I appreciate you trying to help me. I emailed you pics of my wiring. Let me know if you see anything right off the bat that appears incorrect. I'm not to proud to admit if it was incorrectly installed. I don't believe that it was but there is definitely an issue somewhere. Obviously this doesn't happen to everyone, but it does happen so by you helping solve my problem hopefully it will prevent the possibility of other people from having an issue in the future.
This is great to see on the forum. Not that you are having a problem Iceberg but that it's getting worked out in an open civilized manner. I applaud you Iceberg on how your are dealing with this, very classy. I also applaud the level of support Arrington seems to constantly give this community. I hope this issue continues to get resolved in this manner
ProCharger, CMR Tune by Johan, Ported TB, Corsa Exhaust, Jet 180 T-stat, Blue LED Interior lights, E&G Bentley Grill, Ipod Adapter, SRT8 Billet Pedals, Lambo Doors, Cherry Wood Dash, CA Classic Strut Brace, ProTorque 2800 TC, Chrome Valve covers from 3G and Polished firewall
I had the Arrington fuel pump and modified the factory hat to handle the extra current.The factory 16 gauge wire got way too hot at the hat connector.I drilled and tapped the hat for 2 threaded studs,used 2 nuts and engine silicone to seal it.It worked fine with no leaks.
2008 SRT8 Challenger,PWR forged 6.1 (9.5cr),Mean street heads,stock cam,Arrington 1.7 roller rockers,Hellion twin turbo kit (17psi),SHR Viking trans,Wavetrac rear diff. Johan E85Tune- 10.0 @ 137
Glad you found a good solution for you HEMITECH. I've seen others on the same path who have struggled to keep a good seal - a good clean, sharp, properly sized tap has a lot to do with it when using this solution. Also, for anybody else going this direction, I highly recommend Loctite 5910 sealant to keep the gas smell in the tank where it belongs.
I wanted to follow this up to let folks know that we found the root cause of Iceberg62's electrical overheating problem, fixed it, and he's now back terrorizing the roads in TX.
Before installing the Arrington Dual Fuel Pump setup, he had a BAP installed. At some point, the BAP went wacko and fried some wiring and electronics in the car, so he had a shop remove it and install the Arrington kit. As it turns out, the BAP failure damaged the OEM plug and wires to his fuel hat INSIDE the plug itself - this damage was not discovered during the swap. That damage meant that even with just the single OEM pump, the wiring got way too hot. Add the extra demands of the second pump and the poor result was inevitible.
Thanks to Jason for his patience and persistence working through this with me, and for handling this like a gentleman. I'm very happy we were able to get him back on the road, and I'm sure he's going to enjoy years of trouble-free service from his fuel system.
As another tidbit of learning from this exercise, you can purchase a new OEM replacement plug with some wires from Mopar (P/N 68045315AA) for about $40. The replacement wires that come with this plug are a little heavier gauge than the OEM parts and might help somebody else who's seeing excessive heat for one reason or another.
good info here. Thanks!
I also wanted to thank Mikah for his help. He definitely went the extra mile helping me out, supplying a new wiring harness(free), plug (at his cost) and most importantly getting to the root of the problem. I don't know how the it would have ever gotten solved otherwise. No one I have talked to ever even suggested replacing the plug. I guess it's just one of those things that you take for granted...I mean come on, it's a plug. Thanks again and thank you to Aarington for supplying the new fuel hat free of charge. You guys all deserve high praise for the way you helped me out.
Here is a pic of the new plug installed, OEM vs new wires, and the frayed power wire at the the edge of the old plug. It looks worse in person than in the pic. I also pulled the sheath back a little. It wasn't this obvious.
Well finally got the car dyno tuned, and I couldn't be happier. 521rwhp and 488rwtq! The car is a absolute monster now! This is on 7psi too, later down the road I will up the boost, but for now I need to get used to this new found power