Nitrous question for the gurus on here.

[grip grip]

Here's my dilemma. I'm looking for a way of evacuating nitrous or preventing it from leaking into the manifold at all. It is not uncommon for the nitrous solenoid to leak, allowing the explosive mixture into the manifold.

Here's why I'm asking. For my automatic pressure activated bottle heater to operate properly, I must have the valve on my bottle turned on. This pressurizes the nitrous line and the solenoid. If the solenoid leaks and I start the car the engine will be toast.

Here's what I'm thinking:

1) Install an additional valve after the heater pressure sensor and leave it off until I crank the car. This will allow bottle pressure to reach the heater sensor, but not the solenoid.

2) Install a switch that will kill the relay powering the coils. This way I can hit the switch killing spark. I then turn over the engine a few seconds to pump out the nitrous in case there was a leak. I then turn off the switch and start the Jeep.

3) I could install a burst plate in plenum of my intake so that if there is a misfire the dangerous pressure will be exhausted without destroying the engine.

Have any of you nitrous guys done any of the above?

[AlbertaCharged]

I'm still new to the nitrous game, but I know the concepts pretty well. Reading what your saying, it sounds like you want to leave the bottle open while the car is off so the heater will regulate it??????

If so you don't need to have the bottle pressure regulating while the car is off. It's fine if the pressure is low when it's parked, it won't hurt anything. You should never have the bottle open and the heater on while the car is off anyways, you would drain the battery and risk what you said above. The heaters are only to be used while the car is running, and you plan on shooting some giggle gas. So after you start your car, and want to have some fun, then open the bottle and everything should be just fine. Of course it wouldn't hurt to do what you stated above as more safety is never a bad thing.... but i'm just babbling now lol

[grip grip]

I'm still new to the nitrous game, but I know the concepts pretty well. Reading what your saying, it sounds like you want to leave the bottle open while the car is off so the heater will regulate it??????

If so you don't need to have the bottle pressure regulating while the car is off. It's fine if the pressure is low when it's parked, it won't hurt anything. You should never have the bottle open and the heater on while the car is off anyways, you would drain the battery and risk what you said above. The heaters are only to be used while the car is running, and you plan on shooting some giggle gas. So after you start your car, and want to have some fun, then open the bottle and everything should be just fine. Of course it wouldn't hurt to do what you stated above as more safety is never a bad thing.... but i'm just babbling now lol

Thanks! So your saying the bottle will heat up to temp/pressure in a matter of minutes? If that's the case, I can start the Jeep, open the bottle valve, then hit the heater switch and wait for the remote pressure gauge to reach the desired pressure. Then move up to the staging lanes and kick some ass.

I was under the impression that it takes quite some time for the bottle to heat up.

[bklynmag]

Have you looked into the nano set-ups? They will get you to optimal PSI instantly.

[1FST4DR]

Thanks! So your saying the bottle will heat up to temp/pressure in a matter of minutes? If that's the case, I can start the Jeep, open the bottle valve, then hit the heater switch and wait for the remote pressure gauge to reach the desired pressure. Then move up to the staging lanes and kick some ass.

I was under the impression that it takes quite some time for the bottle to heat up.

Correct.If you get a quality heater it doesnt take that long.I really like the dynotune..
I had bad luck with the Zex..As stated above the nano system is the cats a$$ but a little pricey.As far as burst plate go maybe install two on the bottom of the manifold
Hope this helps..

[grip grip]

Have you looked into the nano set-ups? They will get you to optimal PSI instantly.

Yes, but I don't want to get one due to the fact that I'll only be running nitrous a half dozen times a season and they're pricey.

Correct.If you get a quality heater it doesn't take that long.I really like the dynotune..
I had bad luck with the Zex..As stated above the nano system is the cats a$$ but a little pricey.As far as burst plate go maybe install two on the bottom of the manifold
Hope this helps..

I did my research and went with the pressure regulated dyno tune heater also. I've already purchased a new plenum plate for the burst plates, but I'm waiting for the manufacturer to confirm they'll fit. I may have to epoxy the ridges of the plenum to get it to work.

[1FST4DR]

Why epoxy?Can you machine some of the area away on that bottom plate to get them to bolt on?Im sure they come with gaskets.Just a thought..

[grip grip]

Why epoxy?Can you machine some of the area away on that bottom plate to get them to bolt on?Im sure they come with gaskets.Just a thought..

I can't machine it myself, but I can drill the 1 1/4" holes. That's the main reason I was considering epoxy. It really shouldn't matter if I went with epoxy, since the epoxy is on the outside of the block, right? I figure it's better than nothing. :D

[Bo]

It is not uncommon for the nitrous solenoid to leak, allowing the explosive mixture into the manifold.

That is where your REAL problem is. It should not leak!

--Bo

[formerice]

My heater takes about 20-30 min to get to 1000 psi. I have a gas station that I pull into about 15 min from the track and slowly open the bottle while the motor is idling. If I ever heard the rpm change, I'd know that I had a bad solenoid. My worry with nitrous rather would be a fuel solenoid failing to open, then you'd get pure nitrous which would destroy the motor.

[stevesrt8]

You should never have the bottle open and the heater on while the car is off anyways, you would drain the battery and risk what you said above.

What he said!

Glad you asked. Would've hated to read about it on the news!

[grip grip]

Thanks for all the advice, I appreciate it. I like the idea of warming the bottle on the way to the track and also the part about opening the bottle slowly while watching for an increase in the rpms. I'm planning on getting a fuel pressure safety switch or an A/F safety switch to deal with the possibility of losing fuel.