My fat pipes leaks at the clamp now a little rust

[bigkevin20]

What do I need to do have the clamps taken off and welded?

[Super T]

.... what clamps, what pipes? I definitely would not weld the midpipes to the cat-back. That could make changing things in the future very... interesting. You can weld the whole cat-back if you want. As far as clamps... you should be using the two-bolt style, they're about 3" long and give a killer seal. The U-bolt or single-bolt style have a much harder time staying tight. I assume the pipes aren't stainless??? If the pipes aren't stainless, then the rust is from the clamps.

[bigkevin20]

I have the blastin bob 7db resonator eliminator kit. So I just use the clamps that came with the kit. They clamp on to the pipe I cut off.

[Blastin_Bob]

What do I need to do have the clamps taken off and welded?

This is what superT is talking about.

TT-SERIES

GENUINE TORCA® BRAND PREFORMED LAP JOINT BAND STYLE CLAMP.



http://www.ottawaproducts.com/produc...TiteSeries.pdf

This style won't work on the passenger side because it clamps too close to a bend. A couple options are to remove it and apply red rtv silicone or to have it welded. Since your converters produce water it's difficult to keep it from seeping out of anywhere it can, even the lap joint band clamps will allow some water to leak out. The other option is to have it welded.

[Blastin_Bob]

Just found one that has a gasket to help with the leak in the crack, but it still won't work in a bend.

http://www.ottawaproducts.com/produc...s%20clamps.htm

[bigkevin20]

OK thanks its not that bad but its noticeable.

[36 chambers]

just get them welded...u can always cut them off!!!!

[bigkevin20]

Yeah I plan to now thanks. By the way the still sound great Bob.

[36 chambers]

my mopar borla duals did the same thing leaking at clamps....so now there welded up!!!