Those running Spacers/front Skinnies... how are you tightening the spacers?

**Redfox0099** · 05-17-2009, 01:02 PM

How are yall tightening and Torquing the front spacers with the rotor spinning freely... I made my own solution but wanted to see what others had done.

What torque setting are yall using?

**robsrt** · 05-17-2009, 03:38 PM

I always have someone hold the brake while I torque them down. I torque them to 100 ft-lbs.

**metgo** · 05-17-2009, 04:14 PM

Only way to do it is to have someone hold the brake or use an impact gun.

**Redfox0099** · 05-17-2009, 04:23 PM

Originally Posted by metgo

Only way to do it is to have someone hold the brake or use an impact gun.

Not the only way, I had tighten them alone this moring.....

**torRed #1169** · 05-17-2009, 05:20 PM

Yeah powerwagon does something different as well.

Not sure exactly....

**slideway** · 05-17-2009, 09:06 PM

The spacer nut's from adaptitUSA.com are wedge nut's, don't need a lot of torque. I have to use a cheap 13/16 socket because the good ones get gauled in the hole.

**lou1355** · 05-17-2009, 09:08 PM

I hold the brake while my accomplice torques to 90 ft. lbs. (adapters, not spacers, by the way).

**Jaak** · 05-17-2009, 09:21 PM

Cut some wood to length and brace it off the driver's seat to the brake pedal, and move your electric seat forward to keep it held down. Notch the end of the wood so it can't slip off.

Like an old hockey stick. Or baseball bat if you're not in to hockey. (Like WTF who isn't in to hockey?)

**JMatt** · 05-17-2009, 09:30 PM

Originally Posted by jaak

Cut some wood to length and brace it off the driver's seat to the brake pedal, and move your electric seat forward to keep it held down. Notch the end of the wood so it can't slip off.

Like an old hockey stick. Or baseball bat if you're not in to hockey. (Like WTF who isn't in to hockey?)

I did exactly this using my aluminum racing jack handle. Tilt the seatback forward as far as possible to get the angle right so the handle doesn't just slip up the seat.

Then put the handle on the brake pedal and move the seat forward until the brakes hold.

Then tighten the brakes. Works well when there's no one else around to help you.

**CT-MSRT** · 05-17-2009, 09:54 PM

impact gun will get the job done every time with no wheel spin. 36v FTW!

**Junior** · 05-17-2009, 10:07 PM

Use a bar between two opposite studs, and the torque wrench on an inset nut. Position the torque wrench so you can bring the two levers together until the proper torque is achieved. Easy. You're not putting enough sideload on the studs to hurt them, and the bar can be most anything you already carry.

**JMatt** · 05-17-2009, 10:09 PM

Originally Posted by Junior

Use a bar between two opposite studs, and the torque wrench on an inset nut. Position the torque wrench so you can bring the two levers together until the proper torque is achieved. Easy. You're not putting enough sideload on the studs to hurt them, and the bar can be most anything you already carry.

The studs don't stick out - at all.

**SRT-ED** · 05-17-2009, 11:24 PM

How about just sticking a screwdriver in one of the vents of the rotor and let it rest against the caliper while your tightening them?

**HEMI~C~** · 05-17-2009, 11:32 PM

Originally Posted by SRT-ED

How about just sticking a screwdriver in one of the vents of the rotor and let it rest against the caliper while your tightening them?

Bingo.... a simple screw driver in the rotor vents allowing the screw driver to brace against the caliper works great for those that change wheels by their lonesome