brake advice needed

[ventoracing]

I'm planning to run some road courses this summer (Pocono, Watkins Glen, Limerock, etc) with my Charger R/T and was wondering if some of the track gurus could suggest a brake rotor/pad combination that I should upgrade to....

Thx.

[SRT8U]

For Pads I would suggest Hawk HPS
http://www.bmcspeedshop.com/product_...hb509f-678.htm
http://www.bmcspeedshop.com/product_...hb508f-675.htm

or EBC Redstuff Pads ( I run these on my SRT8 on the street and track)
http://www.bmcspeedshop.com/product_p/ebc-dp31722c.htm
http://www.bmcspeedshop.com/product_p/ebc-dp31724c.htm

As far as rotors there are several options for upgraded rotors.
http://www.bmcspeedshop.com/category_s/275.htm

If you are going to do alot of track events I would suggest upgrading to the SRT8 Brembo setup or a Big Brake Kit from Baer, Stoptech or Wilwood

[Junior]

This thread (below) should be required reading...

Brake Issue - help needed!

I'd summarize it, but I'm not smart enough. It deals with pads, rotors, stainless lines, drilling vs. slotting, all kinds of stuff... expansive.

[Todd TCE]

I'm planning to run some road courses this summer (Pocono, Watkins Glen, Limerock, etc) with my Charger R/T and was wondering if some of the track gurus could suggest a brake rotor/pad combination that I should upgrade to....

Thx.

While you can get by on some pads, hoses and a couple of sets of stock size rotors though the season it depends on how much track time you really plan to do....consider "buying up" to begin with and not later.

[Steve Levin]

I'm going to weigh in on the "drive a little slower and easier on the brakes" and save yourself the money.

You'll be amazed at how taking just a slight edge off will make a huge difference for your brakes.

Steve

[MattRobertson]

I'm on the opposite side of that fence, although I have been sidelined for six months and probably should shut up until I get some more track time in.

You can do this the cheap way with your stock brakes and get halfway decent but not great results. Put in some stainless lines (even though thats just a feelgood and doesn't do crap to help you stop). The best track pads for your stock calipers are EBC Yellow Stuff, which are a grade above Red Stuff. There is no reason to upgrade your rotors until you ruin the stockers. Nothing anyone will sell you will meaningfully help you stop better.

Brembo take-offs from a wrecked SRT are an option. But they are not as inexpensive as other new-stock options and are no better - or inferior, depending on who you ask - than those other new stock options. The Brembos also have pretty much the same pad options as the (Bosch-labelled?) stockers we have now. Which means not much.

I'm pretty biased for the Wilwoods sold by Todd TCE and you'll find he has slowly built up a lot of satisfied customers here over the years. You can step up to a Stage I kit which is calipers-only, and when you have the funds, buy the rotors to go with them. The Stage II kit is about what a set of Brembo take-offs are and they simply work better. Better pad selections too. The mild street combo (BP10's and T pads) is practically dust free, and the aggressive street combo (BP20's and BP10's) is still easy on the dust. I'll be leaving that on when I go to SpeedFest and do the autocross. The H track pads were killer at Laguna Seca and made the difference between being left in the dust and keeping up. There is a milder track pad I am going to try when my season starts, just to see how they are on the rotors.

If you want to go nuts, put in spindle ducts.

[MattRobertson]

oh and no matter what get yourself some high temp brake fluid. Don't worry about expensive stuff. You can get inexpensive fluid thats almost as good and you just bleed your brakes in between track sessions. Its ridiculously easy to do and fresh fluid in there is a huge advantage. I have sworn by Wilwood 570 fluid as its good and cheap but the ATE Super Blue and Amber (you alternate colors so you know when you've flushed them fully) at 11 bucks a liter seems like a killer deal worth trying.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...ID&iorb=4764&0

[Steve Levin]

Well, I admit that I've moved to the dark side and acquired a pure track car that's a lot faster and a lot cheaper than the SRT-8. So my 300 will only ssee the track a few times a year now.

Steve

[SRT8U]

Well, I admit that I've moved to the dark side and acquired a pure track car that's a lot faster and a lot cheaper than the SRT-8. So my 300 will only ssee the track a few times a year now.

Steve

Ok Fess up what did you get

[MattRobertson]

No kidding. Did you get the Ariel? Can't be. Wouldn't be cheaper. An old 944 beater? A 914-6? Spill it!

[SRT8U]

No kidding. Did you get the Ariel? Can't be. Wouldn't be cheaper. An old 944 beater? A 914-6? Spill it!

mmm 914/6

[MattRobertson]

No kidding. Inexpensive, a rocket and utterly unrollable. Gawd I need a bigger garage. And money. Lots of money.

[Steve Levin]

hahaha no Atom...in the end, I went with this:



It's a Spec Racer Ford. ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spec_racer_ford ) A little slower than the Atom, but it's also 25% of the cost, and probably cheaper to run and fix if I crash it. I'm also going to run the SCCA events with it. But it's a lot of fun for just track days as well.

Steve

[Junior]

It's a Spec Racer Ford. ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spec_racer_ford ) A little slower than the Atom, but it's also 25% of the cost, and probably cheaper to run and fix if I crash it. I'm also going to run the SCCA events with it. But it's a lot of fun for just track days as well.

Steve

From the wiki link:
"The SR rules dictate that no performance enhancing modifications other than suspension adjustments within described parameters can be made to the car. This effectively eliminates the never-ending need for design enhancements and associated large cash outlays necessary in other classes of racecars to remain competitive and puts the focus on driver skill, rather than financial and technical investment. Every Spec Racer weighs the same using ballast that can accommodate drivers who weigh up to roughly 225 pounds, uses the same engine, the same transmission, the same fiberglass body, the same chassis, even the same tires. The idea is that all of the cars are meant to have identical performance, so the only way to go faster is to be a better driver."

LOVE IT.

Pretty cool scooter, man!

[MattRobertson]

That is just sooo cool. Hope to see you at SpringFest, Steve.