got some problems with my sxt

[blackmagnum06]

ive got some problems with my car not sure if they are a big deal. my car has 20,200 miles

ever since i tried doing the esp disable with turning the key ignition my car seems to be acting weird.

1st when im stopped at a light the car starts acting like if its going to shut off...well it doesnt do it so much its just a little bit but i could notice it.

2nd not sure if its my suspension (its stock) sometimes when i go in reverse i hear a kind of loud pop sound like if i ran over something but i didnt, this only happens once in awhile.

3rd i mentioned this in another thread. everytime i go over the lane dividers on the street i get a noise like if the wheels are loose. but recently i tightened them up and i still get that noise. not sure if its a break issue or not. im going to take off my srt wheels and spacer and drive on my stock wheels to see if this is the problem

4th are my brakes. most of the time i go over a bump and i slightly brake i feel the brake pdeal vibrating and pushing back.

5th i prolly didnt notice this before but i could feel the engine heat. not sure if everyone feels it but i dont remember feeling it b4.

help me out guys. thanks

[Fiveoh]

Its possible the "esp disable" trick did something to the computer. Try resetting the PCM/TCM by taking off the negative battery cable and/or pulling fuse 11. But before you do that write down any codes. You can get the codes by following these instructions.

After you write down the codes, then procede with resetting the computer(s). Once you wait about 3-5 minutes, reconnect the negative battery cable and follow the ESP recalibration procedures.

If resetting the computer and recalibration procedure doesn't work, then take your vehicle to the dealer and show them the codes you wrote down (if any codes existed).

[NC-SXT]

I had that popping noise from backing up and it ended up being a broken retainer ring in the tranny. (still in the shop). The reverse finally went altogether
The noise from the speed bump could be just a loose shock. When I did my rear sway bar I thought I had tightend the shocks up but they just needed a little more wrenching to do away with a loud thunk noise.

[blackmagnum06]

Its possible the "esp disable" trick did something to the computer. Try resetting the PCM/TCM by taking off the negative battery cable and/or pulling fuse 11. But before you do that write down any codes. You can get the codes by following these instructions.

After you write down the codes, then procede with resetting the computer(s). Once you wait about 3-5 minutes, reconnect the negative battery cable and follow the ESP recalibration procedures.

If resetting the computer and recalibration procedure doesn't work, then take your vehicle to the dealer and show them the codes you wrote down (if any codes existed).

do the codes only appear on the lx's with the evic system? mines dont have any other info other then the miles and temp

[MooNDoGGie]

Following the procedure descibed above you will show codes on your SXT that is not equiped with EVIC. If there are no codes you will just see four or five underscores instead of codes.

[blackmagnum06]

Following the procedure descibed above you will show codes on your SXT that is not equiped with EVIC. If there are no codes you will just see four or five underscores instead of codes.

THANKS! I WILL DO THAT LATER ON TODAY

[Fiveoh]

When you initiate the "display code" procedure, ensure you watch the area that normally displays the mileage, etc. If no codes appear, then that basically means the computer didn't receive any faults from the other modules. Basically...the computer thinks the car is fine. But judging from your experience...you'll probably have some codes. Write them down here in the forums and we'll help you decypher the codes.

[Jimsmag06]

Hey Guys, Not for nothing, but the key thing doesn`t work all the time. I had a check engine light illuminate last sunday night, tried the key proceedure to check for a code, and all I got was "Done" on the display...No codes.
Took it to the dealer on tuesday, and they got code P0882, TCM internal failure.
Good luck,
I hope you figure it out.

[MooNDoGGie]

When you initiate the "display code" procedure, ensure you watch the area that normally displays the mileage, etc. If no codes appear, then that basically means the computer didn't receive any faults from the other modules. Basically...the computer thinks the car is fine. But judging from your experience...you'll probably have some codes. Write them down here in the forums and we'll help you decypher the codes.

Hmmmmmmmm isn't that what I just said?

[blackmagnum06]

ok i did the ignition key thing and it has no codes.

[blackmagnum06]

now im going to try to pull fuse 11 and disconnect the negative. ok call me stupid but what is the safest way to disconnect the negative? lol i jsut dont want any accidents to happen or nething. and is the batterry the one thats in the rear?

lol please dont say any smartass comments i know i dont know much about cars but i could always learn lol

[MooNDoGGie]

If your going to pull the negative on your battery you don't need to pull fuse 11. Pulling the negative will stop all power to the car. Just unscrew the bolt and wiggle it until it comes off. Some people have reported problems with it being on there real tight. Don't reef on it real hard or you could pull the post right out of the battery.

[Fiveoh]

Whatever you do, don't close the rear hatch after you unplug the negative cable.

[bookeem]

and dont drop it on anything metal back there....

[ZMagnum]

Whatever you do, don't close the rear hatch after you unplug the negative cable.

That's what I was just about to say.

Let us know how that worked with the batter disconnect. You will have to do the battery reconnect procedure to get rid of the ESP/BAS light you will see after driving a few seconds as Fiveoh mentioned.

I guess this is probably a good time to mention combustion chamber cleaner as well for the engine sounds like it's going to shut off problem.
MOPAR Combustion Chamber Cleaner...nice!

As far as your brakes are concerned you might want to have the rotors check for warpage. They may need to be machined. Mine were pulsing when I was braking to the point where my steering wheel would shake.

You also mentioned feeling "engine heat." What do you mean? Inside? Check your temp gauge. If, after it warms up, it stays at the 1/2 way tick or just to the left of it you are at normal temps.