Dual Exhaust

[Thom331]

Im wanting to put a new dual exhaust on my 2010 sxt 3.5L but...... not sure which one is the best sounding, and the best on performance if anyone has any suggestions please let me know



Thanks

[JCnBOYS]

Honestly, The best sounding I have had on mine is an R/T take off with reso delete.

[gn300]

That is exactly what i would do.

Cheap quick and almost factory!

[gunracer]

Ill agree. The factory rt exhaust will work on our 3.5l engines. Its tried, and tested and will work nicely. But don't go any bigger. Any bigger may sound better but you will loose performance. Im running jba shorty headers, factory mids, factory wye pipe, magnaflow muffler, with blasting bobs single to dual conversion w/ the 10db tuned 4"tips.
http:[url]

[gunracer]

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_u...?v=oTd-z3PP58U

[Samoan Tsunami]

Im wanting to put a new dual exhaust on my 2010 sxt 3.5L but...... not sure which one is the best sounding, and the best on performance if anyone has any suggestions please let me know



Thanks

you're gonna get a million different answers, which will include everything under the book thats available with no definate answer.


heres how i view exhaust from a factual point.

1) power makes noise, noise doesnt necessary make power. look at a majority of sport compact cars with alot of noise and going no where fast.

2) stock exhausts are crappy for performance gains... sure its cheap, but they took it off for a reason...some even give em away for free... if something actually was performance minded, common sense would say, well why didnt they keep it??? think about it putting it back on yours is like changing your grandparents underwear and putting them on yourself instead of something more sporty/athletic. you get the look, but not the performance. it satisfies the look of dual exhaust (which is fine if you just want the look or some extra muffled sound), but the main suitcase muffler is a high volume low performance style muffler. made cheap and mass produced to reduce sound, but kills exhaust flow. exhaust is really basic, like the intake side. the faster the air or exhaust moves the more the performance. exhaust is to stay heated and flow fast. cooling it down to slow it down and reduce sound isnt performance weilding AT ALL. common sense. what happens to lava once it gets out of the lava tubes and is allowed to cool? in the tubes it moves fast and stays liquified. Two Guys Garage Challenging Exhaust - YouTube

the pipes are good, but the mufflers themselves are the culprits.

-If you do get an R/T exhaust, replace the mufflers if performance is your goal in the least...

3) if you dont have the money for a full stainless steel ready made system, you can get lesser cost versions of the same from companies like blastin bobs, or get a custom setup done locally. just look at whats made and simply replicate it. (think about it, companies have spent thousands in testing and R&D, make use of their knowledge, theyve already did the ground work.) unless you are running boost, nitrous, or a serious serious rebuild stick to around 2.25 inch diamter. going bigger starts to lose out on low end torque which is the power that gets you off the line. and unless you have a rediculous amount of top end power, whats lost at the begining of a race is hard to make up at the end...

4) dont EVER buy into the common myth of "we NEED backpressure"... its not backpressure thats needed, its exhaust velocity that creates the scavenging effect. every engine, race engines included will have backpressure. race cars with straight pipes usually have about 1-3 psi. street cars usually have about 3-6 on a decently built exhaust setup. stock OEM exhaust can have upwards of 18-21psi...

[DB3NTS]

I have the flowmaster cat-back on mine, its perfect, i have a r/t challenger exhaust if you want to buy it...

[BancoPopular]

blastin bobs.

[JCnBOYS]

The R/T exhaust is an upgrade from 2.25in single to 2.5in dual. The restriction in the suitcase on the V6 will be minimal. Add the Reso delete and there's even less restriction, with a low growl and NO drone.

Just my ¢2

[Samoan Tsunami]

The R/T exhaust is an upgrade from 2.25in single to 2.5in dual. The restriction in the suitcase on the V6 will be minimal. Add the Reso delete and there's even less restriction, with a low growl and NO drone.

Just my ¢2

DEf not true on the suitcase muffler you honestly couldnt be FURTHER from the truth. especially being under the mindset that since its a big muffler, its got plenty of open room, which is actually the problem in the design from a performance standpoint.

if the exhaust gasses are allowed to expand, cool and slow down on a more powerful engine to cause a restriction, on the V6, it will occur even MORE SO and be an even bigger restriction... think about it.

think of this: if you have a stove and you cant heat a frying pan fully with the BIGGER burner (similar to the bigger engine) then if you use a smaller burner, its gonna be less output than the bigger burner. youre basically gonna do MORE work to achieve LESS ouput. so in terms of exhaust, and the suitcase muffler, out of simple logic, if that muffler is big enough to allow the V8's exhaust to expand and cool, then its gonna occur even more significantly with use of a v6, less powerful engine....

almost every reputable company from zoomers, to magnaflow, flowmaster, etc... their testing has proven 2.25 to be optimal for the 3.5 engine in dual exhaust format. if you run single exhaust 2.5 is the ticket.

so theres no need to go to 2.5 inch dual. something else to think about it: if there were NOT a reason to build a seperate v6 kit, ALL of those companies would just sell their R/T kits and not have to spend extra time and money making a seperate kit. thats just basic logic of having a business and making money.

case in point "bigger is not better" when it comes to pipe size. were dealing with an engine that with intake headers exhaust and a tune only gets 195-220RWHP, stock were talking 175-180 RWHP.

The size of tubing used in an exhaust system is a critical item to consider. Tubing diameter will affect the sound level and performance characteristics of the muffler, but keep in mind that bigger is not always better. Using tubing that is too large can actually hinder exhaust scavenging by slowing the velocity of exhaust pulses in the tubing. As a rule, most mildstreet applications (V8 dual exhaust) use 2.00” through 2.25” tubing, and modified street applications (V8 dual exhaust) will generally use 2.25” or 2.50” tubing.

What size exhaust tubing should I use for my street application?

Question: Why ISN'T a bigger pipe always better?

Answer: Don't be fooled! Bigger is not better! Many people think that having the biggest diameter pipe is the best way to make power.
Not true. Due to a variety of factors, extensive testing is required. We've dyno'd extensively and our systems yield optimum power increases. Some manufacturers claim even higher horsepower numbers.

It is a fine line to reduce backpressure while maintaining good exhaust velocity. It is not about getting the biggest pipe, it is about getting a more efficient pipe diameter while maintaining exhaust velocity.

MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust - FAQ, Frequently Asked Questions

stock mufflers are NOT good for flow or performance on most cars that arent specialized builds. This is fact, NOT opinion. Restriction isnt in the same terms as a a solid blockage, like in a drain pipe, which is what most dont understand.

The Muffler

The key part of your exhaust system is the muffler. The muffler is the can at the end of your exhaust whose main purpose in life, is to make the engine noise quiet. To be the whisper quiet device that most car owners demand, a typical stock muffler must have an intricate and labyrinth-like internal flow path to help slow and cool the hot, vibrating with sound energy, exhaust gas. It contains baffles that cause the exhaust flow to reverse direction and intermix. These are great for reducing noise but are not so great for having good power unleashing flow. This is mostly because all the twists and turns that the exhaust must endure in a stock muffler are a restriction that causes excess backpressure. You can run in a straight line faster than you can run in a tight maze in a fun house right? The same goes for your exhaust gas.

To produce the most amount of power, an exhaust should have the least amount of restriction to the exhaust flow. Restriction hampers the burnt exhaust gasses from exiting your engine, causing some charge dilution with the incoming fresh fuel air mixture. If all the exhaust gas cannot escape from you cylinders, it dilutes the flammable power producing intake mixture that is trying to come in. The diluted mixture does not burn as well as a pure mixture. This causes a loss of power. You don’t feel so energetic at a packed club with lots of cigarette smoke, sweaty bodies and hot stuffy air right? Neither does your motor. With greater restriction, backpressure is generated making the engine work harder to pump the exhaust out of the engine's cylinders. The harder it is to get the exhaust out; the power wasted to pump the stale exhaust gas out of a restrictive exhaust system could be used to turn the wheels instead. Turbocharged, suspercharged, Nitrous Equipped and engines with really big cams are all especially sensitive to backpressure.

An old hotrodders tall tale is that engines need some backpressure to work properly and make torque. Well that is not true. What engines need is the lowest low backpressure possible but with a high exhaust stream velocity. A fast moving but free flowing gas column in the exhaust helps create a rarefaction or a negative pressure wave behind the exhaust valve right as it opens. This vacuum helps scavenge the cylinder of exhaust gas faster and more thoroughly with less pumping loss-inducing work. A too big in diameter exhaust pipe has low backpressure but lower velocity. The low velocity reduces the effectiveness of this scavenging effect, which has the greatest impact on low-end torque. So remember fast = low backpressure + high velocity. Slow=low backpressure=too big of an exhaust pipe=low velocity. Low backpressure also helps a turbocharger work more effectively.

Low backpressure and high exhaust stream velocity can be achieved by running straight through free flowing mufflers and relatively small pipe diameters. The only exceptions to this are super or turbocharged motors, motors optimized for large amounts of nitrous oxide and highly modified naturally aspirated motors with huge cams. These types of engines vastly increase the exhaust gas volume and simply need larger pipes to get rid of it all or in the case of the high strung NA motor, are very sensitive to small amounts of backpressure.

Some stock mufflers and exhaust systems have up to 20 psi of choking, power robbing backpressure. In direct contrast, a well-designed high performance street exhaust system typically has about 2-6 psi of backpressure. For interesting comparison sake, an un-muffled straight pipe on a real racecar usually has 0-3 psi of backpressure

like said, companies have spent months and thousands on doing the R&D on finding what works and what doesnt. actual TESTING...whats what everyone wants right, they wanna know if something is proven. with exhaust, it has been. the info is out there and easy to find if not a phone call away. unless your using nitrous or boost, the above pretty much has already been proven, not just opinion... ya dont have to take my word on it or my opinion, but the Facts from the companies who've done actual testing is posted.

[crazyjay]

in my honest opinion i would think that a true dual 2.25 inch non-mandrel bent system made at your local muffler shop with some free flowing mufflers would be the best for you. i would add some bullet style resonators as well.
now many here will say that i am crazy for stating this but here is why;
first off big mandrel bent 2.50 inch systems are too much for these cars. they are too free flowing. you need those crush bends to slow it down a bit to maintain your back pressure so you don't lose to much torque from your motor.
adding the true dual exhaust will allow it to flow better but i would suggest restricting your pipes down to 2.25 inch with free flowing mufflers to get the gasses moving through quickly and the bullet style resonators minimilize the popping. it will increase your sound and still give you better performance from your motor.
the more aggressive muffler you pick the more sound you will get in the end.
the big difference is that most of the cat backs they have available are generally stainless steel and most muffler shops will use galvanized aluminum although most can bend stainless at a slightly higher cost. your aluminum system won't last as long as the stainless system will but you can have a lot of fun with it until it does end up going 5-10 years down the road if you still own the car.

http://www.dezod.com/pd_stainless_steel_bullet.cfm
http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/sh...e=&orig=842442

[Samoan Tsunami]

in my honest opinion i would think that a true dual 2.25 inch non-mandrel bent system made at your local muffler shop with some free flowing mufflers would be the best for you. i would add some bullet style resonators as well.
now many here will say that i am crazy for stating this but here is why;
first off big mandrel bent 2.50 inch systems are too much for these cars. they are too free flowing. you need those crush bends to slow it down a bit to maintain your back pressure so you don't lose to much torque from your motor.
adding the true dual exhaust will allow it to flow better but i would suggest restricting your pipes down to 2.25 inch with free flowing mufflers to get the gasses moving through quickly and the bullet style resonators minimilize the popping. it will increase your sound and still give you better performance from your motor.
the more aggressive muffler you pick the more sound you will get in the end.
the big difference is that most of the cat backs they have available are generally stainless steel and most muffler shops will use galvanized aluminum although most can bend stainless at a slightly higher cost. your aluminum system won't last as long as the stainless system will but you can have a lot of fun with it until it does end up going 5-10 years down the road if you still own the car.

Dezod Motorsports. Stainless Steel Bullet Style Resonator-2.25" Inlet/Outlet (3.5" OD x 12" Long)
40 Series Delta Flow 409S 2.25IN(C)/OUT(O) [842442] - $118.95 : Flowmaster Inc. Exhaust Shop, Love That Sound!

agreed with everything EXCEPT whats in bold....and the part about true duals flowing better.

a single can flow just as well, if not better than a dual setup, given is the correct size. a y-pipe on a V-x engine going from two headers into a single provides the same function as an X-pipe in a dual pipe setup.

as far as the backpressure thing...no one needs backpressure, and backpressure doesnt make torque...

An old hotrodders tall tale is that engines need some backpressure to work properly and make torque. Well that is not true. What engines need is the lowest low backpressure possible but with a high exhaust stream velocity.

http://www.magnaflow.com/05news/magazine/05sportc.asp

adding backpressure makes the engine work harder. you want the engine to work less and put more of the power produced to the wheels. efficiency.

also the same as the intake side with the "tornado fuel savers" and anything in the tract that will create turbulences, thats something to avoid. same goes for exhaust. crush bends with ridges in a pipe create turbulence. key reason why intake companies remove most stock rubber hoses in lieu of a smooth radius tube. the ridges in the stock intake pipes create a restriction via turbulence. fastest point from A to Z is in a straight line. and with exhaust, you are trying to get it all out as fast as possible.

[juice86]

Thanks for the info guys ive been killing my self trying to decide what type of exhaust im going to go with. Im leaning towards blastin bobs

[Rev.Hammer]

Samoan Tsunami is VERY correct on what he is saying and, for one, I am glad to hear it!
Also, what are you planning on doing with your car? Are you going to try to max it out for speed, looks or a combo?
THAT question affects your choiceon exhaust.
If it were me, I would leave it a stock diameter single pipe to save weight and keep the torque band where its useful. For the muffler...well that mostly depends on your tastes, spend a lot of time listening to sound clips and other 6's to make sure of what you are looking for.

[Jimsmag06]

I agree with Samoan.
I have the RT duals on mine, and I lost quite a bit of low end. It is plausible that the RT suitcase is part of the problem, as it is basically a big chamber with 2 sets of guts from a turbo muffler.
The RT resonators are not that bad, flow wise for the 3.5 IMO, But, with that said, i am a big fan of straight through mufflers, I just dont like the noise these days, since its not just me riding in the car.
I might just replace the suitcase with a couple of Magnaflows to see If i can get some of the low end back.

JCnBoys-you have it switched...the single SXT exhaust is 2.5, the RT is dual 2.25
Rev is 100% correct. I had two magnaflows installed on my single 2.5 exhaust, left the factory pipes....i wish i had left it that way, sound was good, power was awesome, and i was constantly getting 28mpg.