3.5L catch can

[F1fan]

Has anyone used the Oil catch can on these motors yet?

Wondering if they toss as much oil as the HEMI seems to.

[ZMagnum]

Every time I check there isn't even a drop of oil in the intake near the crank case hose. I drive pretty hard too.

[NC-SXT]

Every time I check there isn't even a drop of oil in the intake near the crank case hose. I drive pretty hard too.

same here. No problem with oil in the intake.

[TCPMeta]

The 3.5s do push a lot of oil fumes and oil does build up. On my intrepid the air intake is on the left side and I capped that side and added a breather filter on the valve cover. On the right side I bought two 3/8 barb fittings and a air filter from a air compressor and hooked it up between the PCV line and the port on the intake plenum. After a few weeks there was a bit of oil in the can.

Or if you want to do something hardcore then try this little idea. This is a copy and paste from a guide I made a while back.

Inside the crankcase pressure builds from the movement of the pistons and from blow by past the piston rings. Modern engines combat this through the PCV system. When X amount of pressure builds, the PCV valve is forced open and the noxious, oily mess from the crankcase is pushed into the upper intake manifold. This contaminates your air charge, heats it up, and takes up space with non-oxygen rich air.

Built primarily for drag race applications, crankcase evacuation systems are designed to reduce pressure build-up in the engine crank-case. The results are better piston ring seal, less intake charge contamination, and reduced oil leaks, while increasing engine performance.

I'm hoping to have gained around 5-8 hp from this system. I don't know how much of a benefit would be had in an engine that wasn't running under high compression.

Procedure

This is an easy mod. Here's what you do:
1. Disconnect the PCV hose.
2. Cap the PCV valve.
3. Attach a breather filter to a hose connected to the crankcase where the PCV hose was formerly connected.
4. Route the hose and filter away from the engine so that you can pull the coolest air possible.
5. Disconnect the hose from the crankcase to the air intake tube.
6. Cap or plug the air intake tube.
7. Run a new hose from the crankcase to a catch can or air/oil separator.
8. Run a hose from the catch can or separator to your vacuum pump.
9. Route a hose from your vacuum pump exhaust out of the engine compartment.
10. Run switched 12 power to the pump or hook up a switch inside the car via a relay for manual control.

Pictures


The black, bulbous device is the vacuum pump. The silver cylinder is the catch can. The hose goes from the crankcase to the catch can to the vacuum pump.

Cost

The vacuum pump was around $130. Beyond that, all you need is hose, hose clamps, small breather filter, relay, switch, and wire.

[high888]

The 3.5s do push a lot of oil fumes and oil does build up. On my intrepid the air intake is on the left side and I capped that side and added a breather filter on the valve cover. On the right side I bought two 3/8 barb fittings and a air filter from a air compressor and hooked it up between the PCV line and the port on the intake plenum. After a few weeks there was a bit of oil in the can.

Or if you want to do something hardcore then try this little idea. This is a copy and paste from a guide I made a while back.

Inside the crankcase pressure builds from the movement of the pistons and from blow by past the piston rings. Modern engines combat this through the PCV system. When X amount of pressure builds, the PCV valve is forced open and the noxious, oily mess from the crankcase is pushed into the upper intake manifold. This contaminates your air charge, heats it up, and takes up space with non-oxygen rich air.

Built primarily for drag race applications, crankcase evacuation systems are designed to reduce pressure build-up in the engine crank-case. The results are better piston ring seal, less intake charge contamination, and reduced oil leaks, while increasing engine performance.

I'm hoping to have gained around 5-8 hp from this system. I don't know how much of a benefit would be had in an engine that wasn't running under high compression.

Procedure

This is an easy mod. Here's what you do:
1. Disconnect the PCV hose.
2. Cap the PCV valve.
3. Attach a breather filter to a hose connected to the crankcase where the PCV hose was formerly connected.
4. Route the hose and filter away from the engine so that you can pull the coolest air possible.
5. Disconnect the hose from the crankcase to the air intake tube.
6. Cap or plug the air intake tube.
7. Run a new hose from the crankcase to a catch can or air/oil separator.
8. Run a hose from the catch can or separator to your vacuum pump.
9. Route a hose from your vacuum pump exhaust out of the engine compartment.
10. Run switched 12 power to the pump or hook up a switch inside the car via a relay for manual control.

Pictures


The black, bulbous device is the vacuum pump. The silver cylinder is the catch can. The hose goes from the crankcase to the catch can to the vacuum pump.

Cost

The vacuum pump was around $130. Beyond that, all you need is hose, hose clamps, small breather filter, relay, switch, and wire.

Huh? Want to say that again, only slower.

[TCPMeta]

If you don't understand then don't worry about it.

[ToddStone]

What about just disconnecting the hose from the intake and just put on a breather cap in place of the oil cap? Won't that work?

[TCPMeta]

Yes but I hope you like the smell of oil. Also it will contaminate the oil.

[ToddStone]

Even if it has the filter on it? Or is that without the filter?

(both those questions are for both of your statements)

[TCPMeta]

Even with the filter.

[Samoan Tsunami]

The 3.5s do push a lot of oil fumes and oil does build up. On my intrepid the air intake is on the left side and I capped that side and added a breather filter on the valve cover. On the right side I bought two 3/8 barb fittings and a air filter from a air compressor and hooked it up between the PCV line and the port on the intake plenum. After a few weeks there was a bit of oil in the can.

Or if you want to do something hardcore then try this little idea. This is a copy and paste from a guide I made a while back.

Inside the crankcase pressure builds from the movement of the pistons and from blow by past the piston rings. Modern engines combat this through the PCV system. When X amount of pressure builds, the PCV valve is forced open and the noxious, oily mess from the crankcase is pushed into the upper intake manifold. This contaminates your air charge, heats it up, and takes up space with non-oxygen rich air.

Built primarily for drag race applications, crankcase evacuation systems are designed to reduce pressure build-up in the engine crank-case. The results are better piston ring seal, less intake charge contamination, and reduced oil leaks, while increasing engine performance.

I'm hoping to have gained around 5-8 hp from this system. I don't know how much of a benefit would be had in an engine that wasn't running under high compression.

Procedure

This is an easy mod. Here's what you do:
1. Disconnect the PCV hose.
2. Cap the PCV valve.
3. Attach a breather filter to a hose connected to the crankcase where the PCV hose was formerly connected.
4. Route the hose and filter away from the engine so that you can pull the coolest air possible.
5. Disconnect the hose from the crankcase to the air intake tube.
6. Cap or plug the air intake tube.
7. Run a new hose from the crankcase to a catch can or air/oil separator.
8. Run a hose from the catch can or separator to your vacuum pump.
9. Route a hose from your vacuum pump exhaust out of the engine compartment.
10. Run switched 12 power to the pump or hook up a switch inside the car via a relay for manual control.

Pictures


The black, bulbous device is the vacuum pump. The silver cylinder is the catch can. The hose goes from the crankcase to the catch can to the vacuum pump.

Cost

The vacuum pump was around $130. Beyond that, all you need is hose, hose clamps, small breather filter, relay, switch, and wire.

so you are using a vaccum pump to suck the gasses out the crankcase... not a bad idea. the only thing i would double check, and its probably minute, how much draw that has on the electrical.

also if the vaccum pump is pumping out the crankcase gasses, eventually, will that not get clogged, gummed up?




this is just another option for anyone looking into it. its a universal design that i have on my sport compact, but a local friend tipped me off to this method.

http://vamp.darkravers.net/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=139