What size steam rollers could you fit with these lol
ďA turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.Ē - Jeremy Clarkson
hey mopower do u think now u would have interest in making fender flares kit like this one for the 2005=2007 dodge magnums?
Did tommyZ partner up with bushwacker?
OK thanks guys for your comments and help. Here are a few pics of what I'm dealing with. I got 2 sizes of wheel spacers to try out. The ones mounted on the car are 2". They give the car a real factory look with the widebody and stock R/T wheels and tires. This will be my "spare/winter" set up. just for transporting the car etc..
The 1-1/2" spacers (3rd pic) are gonna give me the ability to run at leaset 1" fatter tires (1/2" on both sides). I can also get 1-3/4" spacers but havent done that yet. I really want 22" rims, so if I go with say the Factory Repoductions Challenger style 9" on the front and 10" on the rear, so here is my question, what size rear tire do you think I can get on that 22"x10" rear rim using the 1-1/2" spacer and the 2" wide body?? I want the widest I can get and safety is a must. The pic at the bottom is the look I'm going for (minus the expensive rims if I can't afford them) Those in the pic are 22" SV29.
Lookin' good Mo! And I like those wheels in the pic above too!
"They Were Just Jealous That My Charger Pulled More Kitties Than A Bowl Of Milk"
Hey Mo, where'd you get those spacers??? Are they safe?? I would love those...
I ran spacers on my Tundra in the rear for 3 years with no issues. That was due to the bagging of it as we narrowed the rear end..I had a dream of getting custom wheels made, but truck was sold before I could do that.
And one of the best places I have found to buy wheels spacers is below.
WheelAdapter.com is your number one source for wheel adapters, wheel spacers, used wheels, and wheel studs.
Last edited by mopower; 11-14-2012 at 09:55 AM.
Sweet Mo! Can't wait until you make a wide body for the 2nd Gen!
OK, here is the really cool part of the job, The Optional Chopping out of the Lip ONLY If you opted to get the TUB KIT!
After carefully marking with a grease pencil the place where to cut using the provided paper cutting template, use an air powered hack saw to chop through both layers of metal, holding the saw at around a 15 degree angle.
A little touch up with a body grinder makes for a nice burr free job.
Here is a nice far away shot of the car now with the widebody on and NO lip!! If you have the tub kit, the inner fiberglass wheel lip is removed at the factory to allow space for the tubs, which will bond into the inside of the fiberglass widebody, closing off the whole area and stiffing the car.
Next, I'm gonna work on figuring out how much of the plastic inner liner to remove and get ready to mock up the custom tub prototype inside the fender well, so stay tuned!!
Alrighty guys it's time to finally finish up my widebody so you will be seeing a lot of action on this thread in the near future! Since I'm planning on running 22" wheels and drop the car down, I chose to go with our Tub Kit. This envolves a little more work. If you look back in the thread, you will see the pics of removing about 2" of the metal wheel lip to make space for some big rubber. Now we are going to weld up the hole we made between the inner and outer fender with some patch sheet metal. I didn't have any laying around so I went to the body shop next door and they were nice enought to give me a free piece of a wrecked fender to cut up. I used a jig saw to cut it up. I like that both sides are primed. To do this job, you can either just hand make some sheet metal brackets and pop rivet them in or, if you want to get fancy, you can do like me and weld them up there but you will need one of these:
Of course Gasoline fumes and Sparks dont mix well, so I decided to first install the Fuel Neck, hose and vent assembly before I go any further. all this stuff is provided in the kit and you just use your factory Charger fuel neck as pictured here:
I was still al ittle nervous about the sparks flying, and I may have gone completley overboarded, but i decided to insulate the entire thing with several layers of Aluminum foil and Aluminum tape, also to protect my rubber brake lines and CV joint boots from falling lava.
I started by taking paper patters of the shape needed by pressing on the paper to imprint the sharp edge onto the paper and then cut it out of sheet metal with some tin snips. Btw, I highly recommend this style of snips over the others
So lets get started... Here is a pic of the first piece of metal going in. like I said, pop rivets and a little sheet metal would be more than adequate in this application be we like to do things the hard way...
And now for the other side - No bomb threats on this side but just a small note, make sure to sweep the dang floor under the car before you start welding, I had a piece of paper catch on fire and had to dicharge my brand new fire extinguisher... so now we are done with this step and next we will move on to installing the rear shaved door popper kit
Last edited by mopower; 11-14-2012 at 08:22 AM.
Mo you have been busy my brother! Very nice!
very nice...just dont hit that switch if parked close to another ride...that solenoid really pushes the door open.
Hey on a different note about you kits. With the bonding of the body kits and once done and painted, are there any worries about temperature changes expanding and contracting the metal differently than the kit and causing any premature cracks along the seams?