DANKO 3.5L V6 SHAKER HOOD KIT finally in the works!!!

**BryGuy** · 03-24-2012, 08:48 AM

Is this project dead?

**mopower** · 04-24-2012, 09:42 AM

Originally Posted by wookinpahnub

Is this project dead?

Been working on this on and off while trying to figure out exactly what i wanted. I decided on this design. This highly effective straight shot ram air design is gonna also work with the 5.7 and 6.1 Hemi and be adaptable to function with a supercharger as well!

**scotto** · 05-28-2012, 07:35 AM

Did anything ever come of this project? I was wondering about a price for it.

**mopower** · 06-07-2012, 10:34 AM

getting the car back today to finish up the final design on the sealed system. everything else is ready.

**mopower** · 06-07-2012, 08:32 PM

OK the Manum is back to get it's V6 Shaker installed anybody notice anything different from the last time it was here? It's hard to belive that is the same car with just a few Danko mods on it!

**mopower** · 06-11-2012, 09:01 AM

Before the trim ring was painted, I had to sand off a few bumps on the bottom to make sure it sits perfectly flush against the hood . Once the trim ring is centered, I put some tape around the edge to mark the exact location.

Next the fiberglass mounting flange needs scuffed with 40 grit and the paint with red scotchbrite up to 1/4" from the edge. We will use 1/4" 3M double sided tape around the edge.

As always, always clean surfaces with mineral spirits and let dry before applying adhesive.

Next we need to glue the hood skin to the hood brace. The best adhesive I've found is PL Premium from Home Depot. It sticks like superglue and foams up slightly as it cures. I actually needed 1 1/2 tubes to fill the larger gaps.

Once
the gap is filled, take a sweegy and very carfully scoop off the excess without pushing down on the floppy hood. Also, clean the excess glue off the hood and brace with a rag and mineral spirits. Don't forget to remove the tape and clean real well any residue. The glue must be left overnight to dry so stay tuned for more updates!

**FloridaRT** · 06-11-2012, 01:13 PM

PL Premium is your friend.............. LOL

Bob

**mopower** · 06-11-2012, 09:47 PM

Originally Posted by FloridaRT

PL Premium is your friend.............. LOL

Bob

BTW your car was definitely an inspiration for this project!!

**FloridaRT** · 06-12-2012, 09:56 AM

Originally Posted by mopower

BTW your car was definitely an inspiration for this project!!

Coming from you, that is a real compliment - thank you!

Bob

**mopower** · 06-13-2012, 11:18 AM

OK so now we are ready to bond on the trim ring. The first step is to put it all together and adjust the position of the shaker and trim ring until you are satisfied, then mark the position with tape.

Now, prep the bonding areas by sanding the fiberglass with 40 grit and the paint with red scotch brite again (dont get too close to the marked tape edge!) to remove any residue from the PL premium. If there are large bumps of PL sticking up, you can trim them down a razor knife but mine came out pretty smooth.

Next, flip your trim ring over on a soft surface and clean the edge with mineral spirits. I've found that 3M double sided tape sticks way better to painted surfaces, so if it didn't get paint on the bottom, I always carefully spray some black paint on it first before installing the tape.

Always start from the center rear side and when you get back to the finish, overlay them and cut both together with one razor slice to get a perfect matched joint. Don't forget to peel and bend back a little of the red tape on both sides AFTER you scuff and clean the bottom of the trim ring.

You will have areas where the tape is wrinkling up and wont lay flat due to the curve, so just cut off and remove those wrinkles. If you don't, it could keep the ring from laying flat on the hood.

Here you can see we have applied the adhesive sparingly. I'm using this 3M 2-part epoxy product because it hardens in an hour. It's about $40/kit and requires a $50 gun. If you want to save some money, I recommend 3M 5200, which is a 1-part urethane adhesive, uses a standard caulking gun and you can buy at Home Depot for about $10/tube. The 5200 is also made especially for marine use/bonding fiberglass . The main drawbacks are that it takes 1-2 days to dry depending on the temperature and is white.
If you get glue on the car in the wrong place, you can clean off the 08115 with acetone and a rag and the 5200 with mineral spirits. Neither should damage your car paint, but always try it on a small test area first!

Once you get the trim ring lined up perfectly, you can pull out the red tape and press it down. Notice I laid some paper over the motor - it was a good idea as you can see!

You should not rely on the tape to hold it down, I use spring clamps and a 6" C-clamp in the front. Make sure to adequately protect the paint with tape, wood etc. It's also a good idea to look underneath and caulk extra glue in if you see gaps that are not joined. this is the step that seals the moisture from getting inside your aluminum hood so do a good job. You can alway take the hood off later and touch it up with bondo/paint, etc., to make it look even nicer on the bottom.

Once the glue is dry, you can now remove all the tape and paper and enjoy the final look! Next we will move on to designing the sealed system so stay tuned !

**mopower** · 06-13-2012, 11:38 AM

Now that I'm done with the basic shaker installation, it's time to make this baby functional!
Here you can see the Holley filter base in place and the hole cut. Once the exact positon of the piping that goes to the throttle body was set, it's time to pour the foam.

First, It's necessary to mask off the engine with a garbage back and tape with only the 3" aluminum pipe peeking through. the foam will be joined to the pipe. Once the shaker was bolted back in place, I poured the foam into the hole~

Next, I removed the shaker and cleaned off all the tape,bag and trash and sculpted the shape I want for the lower air manifold. The correct design is crucial for proper airflow and moulding purposes.

Here you can see the manifold and how it comes out next to the throttle body. In the last pic, you can see the U-shaped silicone hose in place connecting them. this is how it will look when it is done - Stay tuned for more updates as this exciting project unfolds!