What steps do you take to store your car for the winter?
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What steps do you take to store your car for the winter?
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I'll take 'er with a shaker!
Hmm... I don't know.. similar to the summer.
Mine is in storage for 8-12 hours at a time during the week... and weekends its flexable.
2006 Charger R/T w/R&T - Black | Electronics Convenience Group | Sunroof | CMR | Police Steelies
Experience is that marvelous thing that enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again - Franklin P. Jones
Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. - Albert Einstein
The best way to "store" your modern muscle car is to park it in the garage at night when you get home from work, let it rest for 8 hours, then drive it to work again the next morning.
Garage queens suck!
If you can solve your problem, then what is the need of worrying? If you cannot solve it, then what is the use of worrying?
What is store the car? I bought her to drive. Not sit in a garage all winter.
Before and After
If you don't really want to "store" it over the winter, you should try to
start it at least once a week so the oil and fluids get moving.
Also, if you do this on a nice clear day, you should also pull the car out
of the garage about 20 feet or so, and then put it back in. Do that about
5 times if you can. You do this to keep the trans and axle fluids moving
as well.
Also, you should change the oil before storing it away because you are
not going to be driving it for a few months.
Then, once spring comes, and you are ready to take the car out and
start driving it, change the oil again, and your ready to go!
Hope this helps.
I do this to my non-daily drivers, which for now, is my 300C. I have a
1985 CJ-7 that is my daily driver, and the one I take to go shopping and
what not. I use my 300C about once a week, and drive it to work if
the roads are not all salted up in the winter.
In the winter I do what I just said, and it has worked for every car I
have ever had as my "pleasure" car for over 25 years.
Jim
Last edited by CJ7VFR; 11-16-2006 at 04:17 PM.
Drive to survive...
Guys, if you don't have anything to help out the person asking the question...don't bother posting.
Anthony
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Dang Dmag............cranky today are we.
Heck if it wasn't for useless posts................................we'd only have about 892.5 to date.
Fill the fuel tank, add fuel stabilizer, drive the car some to get the stabilizer and fuel mixed together.
Double check your antifreeze, top all fluids.
Changing the oil is a good idea, but I feel not the most important because the engine is fresh and the likely hood of contaminates in the oil are not high.
If you have no intention of running her for an extended time frame. Put her up on blocks so you don't develop any flat spots on your tires. Yes they will work themselves out after you start driving it again, but it sucks none the less. They also make tire cradles that are matched to the circumference of the tire if you want. This will keep the tire perfectly round.
Through some moister absorbers inside.
Right now I can't think of anything else. Good luck.
Opp's I forgot, disconnect the battery and or install a automatic trickle charger to it.
Last edited by Cam; 11-16-2006 at 04:40 PM.
From wild to extra wild we got you covered with crap ya never knew you needed.
The first 6.1 transformation and it all went down hill from there.
08 route 66 burnout champion 07 Shindig 6.1NA winner. Willow Springs 1:42!!. 11.796 @ 117mph
Hey CAM, what information do you loose when disconnecting the battery?
Should I revert to stock from my SC before disconnecting the battery?
Can you attach the trickle charge to either the front or back?
I plan to start my car at least once a week, should I still disconnect the battery?
Thanks Man![]()
While I am normally the one with the sarcastic comments...
My only additional suggestion (based on what I do to my oldies) is to make sure any air intakes or other holes are plugged in case you got any of them critters with skinny tales running around. If you have lots of the critters, moth balls or other things can help.
I'm certainly sorry that I offended you guys. We were asked 2 questions, the best way to store, and what do we do to store. I store mine as listed in my answer, and that is also the best way to store one IMO, overnight.
If you were offended by the garage queen comment at the end, I'm sorry for you that I feel that way, but I always have.
If you can solve your problem, then what is the need of worrying? If you cannot solve it, then what is the use of worrying?
All the memory crap. And no you will not lose the tune, but I would return it back to stock anyhow. If you plan on starting it every week you wouldn't have any concerns. But I would still hook up a trickle charger to it. Front or back, it doesn't matter. And if you are going to use the trickle charger, you do not need to disconnect the battery.
I have tried to fool myself for years when I put something away for the season:
Check list:
1: Thoroughly clean and detail...........................result: 50% success.
2: Check all mechanicals, make list for repairs during off season................results: 5% success and 95% chance of last minute, we're leaving tomorrow morning, get-r-done now!!.
3: Batteries: 100% cause I hate buying fricking batteries every damn year.
4: Start weekly: 100% failure
5: Block up the tires: never needed because something is always getting moved cause it's in the way.
From wild to extra wild we got you covered with crap ya never knew you needed.
The first 6.1 transformation and it all went down hill from there.
08 route 66 burnout champion 07 Shindig 6.1NA winner. Willow Springs 1:42!!. 11.796 @ 117mph
Another suggestion, more for the interior... Most RV shops sell a low voltage, heater. Perfectly safe for (and designed) to dehumidify the inside of your car/RV/boat when its in storage.
It must be plugged in to AC, or it will drain your battery. But it does work wonders.
It prevents that musty smell from building up.
Scott
What would the US do if Mexican Drug lords lauched rockets from Tijuana?
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