Well all back straight front right was -15 so feel good now,
Clear marker - Startech grill - Front led DRL - Rear Rosen twin screens - Lockpick v2 - Front camera - irecorder - Rear Camera - Chrome Pillars - BMC filter - 20'' SRT8 wheels with Billet Tech spacer - Billet tech catch can - Billet Tech centre caps- Billet Tech emblems - Billet tech - a/c controls, srt8 brembo's
Looking forward to this mod on my RT here in the middle of August with a Kw V2 coilover install some 15hrs away from home.....
Thanks for this thread.
Why does it mention I need to replace the front hub nut, but not the back?
Is it because the front hub nut pretty much holds the wheel on, while the back hub is secured by other means?
Last edited by Ev0lv3; 03-15-2012 at 05:31 PM.
As a cross reference, the 2006 service manual doesn't say new hub nuts are needed, just new dust caps to preserve a good seal.
However I'm aware of at least one typo\omission in there...
I didn't buy new hub nuts when I replaced one of my front hubs; I reused the dust cap too.
See the good thing is that I got the whole front assembly. So all I have to do is pop the balljoints, and 2 links and pop the new one in and I'm golden. The back is a real bitch to do IMO. My hub bolts were E13's not E14. And I didn't have a swivel socket which I assume you need because the CV joint is in the way. So I had to go about it the hard way. lol
Still not done either. I sort of just gave up in the middle of it. LOL :\
Need to get the sleeves push back to get the knuckle back on and I'll finish it up.
So I went and rented the proper ball joint tools. Popped all the joints no problem. However when taking the nut off the tension strut and using the Allen key, the Allen key stripped on the inside. So I now need a new tension strut.Then on the driver side the tension strut is fine, but the freakin lower ball joint Allen key hole stripped. Needless to say I'm kinda pissed. The ball joint doesn't bother me so much because there's a ball joint on the new knuckle. But just that these parts stripped so easy. And yes I was using the right size Allen.Any pointers from anyone that might have had the same problem?
I find that during these times of frustration a ball peened hammer works wonders for tension (pun intended) relief. Sorry for your misfortune....things like this can be very frustrating at times. Count to 10 ;-)
If you can put enough pressure on the ballpoint it will seat itself enough to get the nut back on. I had the same thing with my upper control arm ball joint. I used a 2x4 pulled down on the control arm over the ball joint and that put enough pressure on it to seat it. I'd see if you can make that work before buying another.
Just lurking. Hemi Registry #1050
Lol I screwed it up pretty good. Out of frustration! Going to get back to this on Saturday and get the crap off that I need off.
Glad I saw this I'm def saving this thread as I'm doing the whole setup soon front and rear on my sxt
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When I come across an Allen bolt that stripped sometimes I take a torx socket and and jam it into the Allen head. Even take one a size bigger and Tap it in with a hammer. Torx are like star Allen bits so if you get just the right size it should work. Also don't turn the Allen/torx socket. Just let it sit against something to stop its momentum and turn the nut with a ratcheting box wrench or open ended wrench. It really depends on how stripped it is sometimes if it's too far rounded out its not going to work. It's definitely worth a shot if you can't take off your old stuff.
Well the balljoint, I'm figuring if I can sorta re-seat it a bit I can probably get it off. Otherwise, grinder is coming out.
As for the tension strut, I'll just take the whole thing off and I won't even worry about removing it from the knuckle.
I'll eventually get it done. hahaha.
I thought these cars were supposed to be easy to work on?