Installing a Hotchkis Performance Stage 1 TVS Kit

[MagnumClub]

Hotchkis Performance Stage 1 TVS Install on Magnum Hemi R/T

Hotchkis Performance Magnum R/T Install Text and Photos by Terry Stevens




These two shots show Don Pusso’s Dodge Magnum R/T as it negotiates cones set up to simulate a 90 degree unexpected curve. While the car responds fairly well, overall it feels as if you are floating on a marshmallow cloud. This maneuver was conducted at 20 MPH and that was the maximum comfortable speed without feeling severe roll.


We also conducted testing on back roads and again the car felt “floaty” and reluctant to change direction with alacrity. Acceleration from rest produced noticeable squat of the rear end and moderate braking from 60 MPH produced significantly more nose dive than anticipated.

Back in the shop, we put the car on the lift and noted that there is a lot of extra space between the tire and fenders, so the final lowering should work fine. Measurements were taken at all four wheel-well openings for reference after the Hotchkis springs are installed.

The Hotchkis packing box is incredibly sturdy and serves to protect the contents from shipping misadventures! Opening the box reveals that the same quality that goes into the Hotchkis components is carried over to the final delivery.



Hotchkis includes all new bushings and brackets (as applicable) for its components. There are no bolts or nuts in this kit since the kit is designed to reuse the stock hardware currently securing the stock components. Instructions are excellent, with clear pictures and verbal details for the installation.

Time-wise, we kept a log of the installation and you can use the following guidelines for your project:

• Approximately one hour was spent test driving the car and taking preliminary photos.
• 15 minutes was devoted to 2 people reading the instructions and gathering tools
• Approximately one hour was consumed determining that none of our shop jacks was short enough to fit under the front crossmember. Off to the parts store for a 2-ton and 4-ton bottle jack! We used the shorter 2-ton bottle jack to ensure that it could be removed after the springs were installed
• Approximately 2 hours was devoted to removing the front wheels, stock front springs and sway bar and replacing the front springs. This included time to take photos
• The front sway bar was installed and the front cover replaced in 30 minutes!
• 3.5 hours were spent lowering the exhaust, lowering the rear cradle and removing the stock rear springs and sway bar and installing the Hotchkis sway bar and springs. This time could easily be reduced to 2.5 hours since we spent extra time trying to determine if the sub-frame could be loosened vice lowered completely. Unfortunately, the rear sway bar needed the extra .5” to clear the car body, differential, and brake lines.
• Another hour was spent torqueing the wheel bolts, then taking the car back out for the “After” test drive and pictures.

Take a look at the above list and you will see that the total “Installation” time is approximately 6.5 hours. It is a full day’s install for the novice, while the experienced mechanic would probably require 4-5 hours with some experience. If you have the manpower, 3-4 people could easily knock out the install in 3-4 hours by having one team on the front and one on the rear of the car, depending on how much beer and pizza were available!

While we were fortunate to have a lift and transmission jack, this job could just as easily have been done on sturdy jack-stands in a garage or shop. You will need a low-slung hydraulic jack to get the car in the air, and the open top Gear Wrenches sure made the strut work easy! The only other tool you will need is a strut spring compressor (apply grease to the threads since you will generate a lot of heat).


Back to work! Paul Trimble begins by removing the plastic shield that covers all of the suspension components and front of the engine bay.

With the wheels removed, you can easily see the front suspension set-up. The stock sway bar end links will remain in position. The strut and “A” arm are high quality, heavy duty pieces designed for years of service.

A good view of the stock sway bar and bushing, that appears to be deformed. This car was hit in the front early on and the sway bar tire rub is evident. The driver’s side showed no such rubbing or bushing deformation. There did not appear to be any handling issues or abnormal tire wear. This is a great thing about doing your own installation; you can observe a heck of a lot on your vehicle! I catch grief all the time about washing/wiping down my engine compartments when I wash my cars, but that way I can check fluids, look at the overall condition, and actually spot possible flaws before they become failures!)


OK, so it’s called journalistic license when a writer digresses! Back to the project… this is the surface that you smack with a hammer to get the tapered ball joint shaft to release. I highly recommend a liberal dose of penetrating fluid (such as PB Blaster) on this area. If you use a pickle fork, you will be visiting the Dodge dealer for a replacement boot!

[MagnumClub]

As per the instructions, make sure you tie the steel strut securely, otherwise you will be putting a lot of weight on the brake lines and ABS pickups when the strut is removed.

Normal protection of painted surfaces and air tools make the removal of the upper strut bolts a breeze.











Removal of the stock spring, the stock “hat” and bump stop, and the installation of the new Hotchkis bump stop, followed by the new Hotchkis lowering spring is simple and covered very well by the instructions. Check out the gear wrench that allows the holding of the top of the strut rod by the 8mm socket for easier disassembly/assembly. Sure made life easier! Reinstallation of the strut assembly on the cars is a reversal of the removal. Double check that all bolts are securely fastened as per the instructions.

[MagnumClub]

The removal of the stock sway bar requires that the heat shields be removed, followed by the brackets and bushings. Hotchkis ensured that the new, harder, replacement bushings were designed to maintain the shape of the stock bushings so the stock brackets could be reused. The Hotchkis sway bar is hollow and larger in diameter than stock, thus increasing roll resistance while reducing front end weight slightly. The last step is refastening the front cover and mounting the front wheels and torqueing them to proper specs (see owner’s manual for wheel stud torque).





After the rear end is raised and supported and the wheels removed, you will need to lower the exhaust approximately 6” and support the differential in preparation for lowering the sub-frame. The crossmember unbolts, and then the rear supports for the exhaust (bolted to the body over the resonators) should be unbolted. Spray the rubber bushings that hold the steel exhaust braces (seen here) with liquid soap and they will slide right off (it is a good idea to have a helper support the exhaust so you are free to move the exhaust out and down… the exhaust is heavy and should not be allowed to “hang” on the collectors… we used wooden blocks to support the rear of the system.

[MagnumClub]

Following the instructions (you are using the instructions as a checklist, aren’t you!?) remove the rear shocks, sway bar end links, and loosen the 4 sub-frame bolts. Our experience showed that all 4 bolts had to be removed to facilitate the removal of the rear sway bar, but it may be possible to remove one side and still “rock” the sub-frame to gain enough clearance to remove the sway bar. The springs will slide right out with a little persuasion… you will simply remove and clean the rubber isolators and reinstall them on the Hotchkis springs.




Before reinstalling the shocks, remove the stock bump stop and replace it with the new Hotchkis polyurethane bump stop.

[MagnumClub]

Now for the fun part! This was the most irritating part, coaxing the stock sway bar out… partly our fault at first since we were trying to get it our without removing all 4 sub-frame bolts… but even after the bolts were removed, it just did not want to come out. Conversely, the Hotchkis sway bar slid in like it was anxious to do its job! The Hotchkis polyurethane bushings are extremely stiff and had to be persuaded to slide onto the bar. As has been pointed out in another forum install, Hotchkis needs to include another packet of grease and should make the zerk fittings at the rear 90 degree fittings for easier follow up lubrication (for post-installation lubrication, use only synthetic grease for these bushings!)


Post testing measurements showed a 3/4” drop at the front and a 1” drop at the rear. It sure looks a lot better and as you can see in the next pictures, the handling is significantly better!




After the installation of the Hotchkis Performance Stage 1 TVS kit (springs and sway bars), the Magnum became a pleasure to drive. These pictures were taken of the car maneuvering around the same cone configuration. The speed around the cones was easily increased to 25 MPH and body roll was much less pronounced, despite the increased speed. More notably, the turn in around the cones exhibited a higher degree of stability and quicker response to steering inputs.

Back road testing revealed a different personality in the Hemi Wagon’s handling. The “floaty” feel was gone… replaced by crisp handling and increased stability to handle any curve encountered. Acceleration and braking tests showed a significant decrease in squat and nose dive as the Hotchkis springs responded much better than stock to the changes in vehicle dynamics. The ride that had been too soft became “sporty-firm” without being harsh. The increase in ride quality is due to both the increased resistance to roll from the Hotchkis sway bars and the Hotchkis progressive rate lowering springs quicker response and lowering of the center of gravity.

For More information, contact:
Hotchkis Performance
12035 Burke Street, Suite 13
Santa Fe Springs, CA90670
1-888-735-6430


www.hotchkis.net

[t walgamuth]

what is the cost for the kit? and do they sell things separately like sway bars, bushings rear lowering only etc?

tom w

[MySRT]

The springs and sway bars are sold separately. Springs are for front and back. Sway bar are for front and back and include all necessary hardware. Check HHP for pricing.
http://estore.websitepros.com/802805...M%3ASuspension

[t walgamuth]

thanks for the link. i will need to go back and study in more detail to see what if anything will fit my awd magnum.

tom w

[Super T]

So... is it really impossible to get the stock rear sway out w/out lowering the rear subframe? I'm a couple jacks short I think! What about the front... do you have to remove the springs/shocks to do the rollbar or can it be gotten out otherwise???

[MAGFX]

GREAT WRITE-UP MAGNUMCLUB!

So... is it really impossible to get the stock rear sway out w/out lowering the rear subframe? I'm a couple jacks short I think! What about the front... do you have to remove the springs/shocks to do the rollbar or can it be gotten out otherwise???

I installed the Hotchkis anti-sway bars, on my ride, earlier this year and think that they are great.

I think it would be nearly impossible to install the rear one without lowering the rear cradle. There just is not much space above the dif area. You do not have to change the rear springs when you change the bar, although if you are going to change them, this is the time to do so. If you change the springs with the cradle down, you will not have to unbolt the suspension arms (not fun to reinstall the arm pivot bolts). And of course you should have an alignment done since the rear cradle may not be tightened in exactly the same spot. The rear suspension can be moved around to align it with the front via the 4 cradle mounts.

The front anti-sway bar can be installed independently of the front coil-overs. This procedure is fairly easy compared to the rear one.

Cheers...

[PhilAnder]

Lots of good info, thanks =]

[MicroChipEngineer]

Thanks for the great write up guys. Your instructions helped me out perfectly. I managed to just loosen the rear cradle bolts without removing them. So there was no issues lining up the front bolts.

Thanks again!

[FloridaRT]

Great write up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

Bob

[MagnumClub]

Glad it helped!!

[Bubba's Dragon]

looks like it was not so bad with a full lift. I'll have to check out the lift at the craft shop and see how it is. I would like to do this upgrade also when putting in my new front shock.