Anyone chime in on this one. I wanna put my stock rear spring back on and I want to know if this can be done without totally removing the rear shock? What tools will I need?
05 Midnight Blue Magnum R/T
Crazy Jay cam, 6.1 Springs & Pushrods, SRT Suspension, 2800 Stall TQ, Diablosport Predator, AEM Bruteforce Intake, OBX Long Tube Headers w/ High Flow Cats, Wheels
I am trying to remember but I dont think you can get to the spings without completly on doing the rear shock. You have to lower the arm or subframe in order of the springs to come out of the car. removing the shocks is the easy part though. I would just follow the directions that just unbolt the rear control arm adn not mess with unbolting the whole subframe. Its fairly simple but take your time and follow the directions..
you will need an impact wrech and some sockets.
Last edited by bguild; 04-12-2007 at 09:48 AM.
Mods List: -- 2006 R/T Hemi, 3-10 Diamond Audio Subs, Kenwood DDX8017, Dolby Surround with Diamond tweets, 4inch and 6inch doors and dash, 2-Diamond Audio Amps, 22x9.5 Foose Nitrous Chrome Wheels - Pirelli 265/35/22 tires - Eibach Pro Kit- Bassani SS exhaust.
Eibach has some allignment parts that you can buy. I am about to install the Eibach Pro-kit lowering springs and need to know which parts i need to buy, there is only one for the front so that is fairly simplebut there are 2 for the rear, one that allows +/- .75 camber, and one for +/- 1.50 camber.
Thank you for your help
ive having trouble getting the rear to line up after jacking up the arm.
can anyone give me any pointers? ive been going at it for over an hour now
Okay this happened to me so be very careful.. I actually got one bolt in then moved it.. upon doing that I broke the threaded insert that holds the rear in on the unibody.. Luckily I traded in that car and the dealership fixed it for free but they had to unbolt the rearend and reweld that insert in. MY susgestion is to not unbolt the subframe and only unbolt the rear control arm things. Anyway since you have already unbolted it I would get two jacks and a extra set of hands to position it. The problem is that when you have the rear sub frame sitting without any bolts it wants to tilt fwd.. You need a jack or something to push the fronts up into place. just make sure you dont break the inserts off like I did.. Take your time and gets ome help and the more jacks and hands you have the better. I idealing you should have a jack on the front part of the rear subframe and one on the rear then you will be able to get it lined up right. Having two people will help get it all lined up evenly..
Also make sure you have the right bolts.. The fronts are different lengths than the rears. I messed mine up the first time and was like why isnt this threading in.. well I had the wrong bolt.
GOOD LUCK
So are the fronts longer bolts or shorter bolts?
So damn custom, I don't even need a sig!
good question-- I cant remember which is what.. I am thinking maybe the back ones are the longer ones.. can anyone else chime in on this? I personally like the idea of just unbolting the rear control arm things instead of taking the whole sub frame loose. I think since I removed my subs I know will put in my rear lowering springs.. I hope this goes better than it did on my SXT I used to own. I think after 3 times I should be a pro at it though (-;
Couple of little things!!
Anyone using this guide for SRT suspension take off: Springs, Struts, Sways. You will have to drop the rear end. When you drop the rear end their are four bolts that bolt to the frame 2 long ones in the back and 2 short ones in the front.
Will be working on the front have the next weekend coming up.
Any tips for getting the rear control arms to line up with the bolt holes on the subrame (we didn't drop the subframe)? Also, we are having trouble getting the rear arm to jack up high enough. The spring only compresses so much before the car starts to raise up.
Sold: 2005 Magnum RT | Midnight Blue | SRT8 Suspension | SRT8 Wheels | Magnaflow exhaust
I had the same problem...
I used a transmission jack...it took a few times to get it to "start" to line up properly. Chances are your never going to get it to line up w/a jack. What I had to do was get a pry bar and use that to line it up while I had someone else watch and shove the bolt through when it was lined up.
This is the worst part of lowering the lx. Just take your time, get some help and don't get too frustrated.
Someone on this post mentioned they had lowered an AWD R/T. I have just searched for the lowering springs but all of them say "does not fit AWD".
Any suggestions?
Hers - 06 Magnum RT AWD - Debadged, Superchips, Honeycomb Black Grill, Blastin Bobs 4 DB resonated kit SSR tips
His - 95 Audi S6, GT2871rs turbo kit and tune, shocks/springs
Both - 2001 Honda Civic, Daily driver!
2005 Inferno Magnum R/T AWD traded
2007 BSM Charger SRT8 traded
2008 BSM Jeep GCSRT8: Option Group I and II. traded
2012 Stone White GC Oveland
Loosen the nut under the upper arm. Slide the jaws under the boot. Turn the bolt on the tool until it places pressure on the bottom of the upper arm bolt. Wrench until the arm bolt pops loose. You'll need a hex wrench on the bottom of the arm bolt to be able to take the nut off completely.
Last edited by hops23; 04-08-2008 at 05:47 PM. Reason: bottom not top of arm bolt
I'm having a problem with the rear's. I took the rear shock off. Compressed the rear spring a little bit with the a spring compressor. I took the nut off the bolt holding the A-arm to the frame. I placed the hydrolic jack under the A-arm. I can't seem to get the stud out of the A-arm. Should I take a hammer to it? 2 jaw puller? Will I stip the threads this way?
Last edited by Jaxon; 01-28-2008 at 10:56 AM.


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