Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 110
  1. #31
    Fireman512's Avatar
    Fireman512 is offline Is it hot in here or is it just me?
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,078
    Anyone chime in on this one. I wanna put my stock rear spring back on and I want to know if this can be done without totally removing the rear shock? What tools will I need?
    05 Midnight Blue Magnum R/T
    Crazy Jay cam, 6.1 Springs & Pushrods, SRT Suspension, 2800 Stall TQ, Diablosport Predator, AEM Bruteforce Intake, OBX Long Tube Headers w/ High Flow Cats, Wheels



  2. #32
    bguild's Avatar
    bguild is offline "Dude, give me your tots!"
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Kansas City-MO
    Posts
    470

    Hhhmmm

    I am trying to remember but I dont think you can get to the spings without completly on doing the rear shock. You have to lower the arm or subframe in order of the springs to come out of the car. removing the shocks is the easy part though. I would just follow the directions that just unbolt the rear control arm adn not mess with unbolting the whole subframe. Its fairly simple but take your time and follow the directions..
    you will need an impact wrech and some sockets.
    Last edited by bguild; 04-12-2007 at 09:48 AM.
    Mods List: -- 2006 R/T Hemi, 3-10 Diamond Audio Subs, Kenwood DDX8017, Dolby Surround with Diamond tweets, 4inch and 6inch doors and dash, 2-Diamond Audio Amps, 22x9.5 Foose Nitrous Chrome Wheels - Pirelli 265/35/22 tires - Eibach Pro Kit- Bassani SS exhaust.

  3. #33
    KsMagnum's Avatar
    KsMagnum is offline I've only just begun!!
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    125
    Eibach has some allignment parts that you can buy. I am about to install the Eibach Pro-kit lowering springs and need to know which parts i need to buy, there is only one for the front so that is fairly simple but there are 2 for the rear, one that allows +/- .75 camber, and one for +/- 1.50 camber.

    Thank you for your help

  4. #34
    The Tran's Avatar
    The Tran is offline Oh yeah baby!
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    729
    ive having trouble getting the rear to line up after jacking up the arm.

    can anyone give me any pointers? ive been going at it for over an hour now

  5. #35
    bguild's Avatar
    bguild is offline "Dude, give me your tots!"
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Kansas City-MO
    Posts
    470
    Okay this happened to me so be very careful.. I actually got one bolt in then moved it.. upon doing that I broke the threaded insert that holds the rear in on the unibody.. Luckily I traded in that car and the dealership fixed it for free but they had to unbolt the rearend and reweld that insert in. MY susgestion is to not unbolt the subframe and only unbolt the rear control arm things. Anyway since you have already unbolted it I would get two jacks and a extra set of hands to position it. The problem is that when you have the rear sub frame sitting without any bolts it wants to tilt fwd.. You need a jack or something to push the fronts up into place. just make sure you dont break the inserts off like I did.. Take your time and gets ome help and the more jacks and hands you have the better. I idealing you should have a jack on the front part of the rear subframe and one on the rear then you will be able to get it lined up right. Having two people will help get it all lined up evenly..

    Also make sure you have the right bolts.. The fronts are different lengths than the rears. I messed mine up the first time and was like why isnt this threading in.. well I had the wrong bolt.
    GOOD LUCK

  6. #36
    pigpen's Avatar
    pigpen is offline Kluck Fabrication
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    10,425
    So are the fronts longer bolts or shorter bolts?
    So damn custom, I don't even need a sig!

  7. #37
    bguild's Avatar
    bguild is offline "Dude, give me your tots!"
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Kansas City-MO
    Posts
    470
    good question-- I cant remember which is what.. I am thinking maybe the back ones are the longer ones.. can anyone else chime in on this? I personally like the idea of just unbolting the rear control arm things instead of taking the whole sub frame loose. I think since I removed my subs I know will put in my rear lowering springs.. I hope this goes better than it did on my SXT I used to own. I think after 3 times I should be a pro at it though (-;

  8. #38
    pigpen's Avatar
    pigpen is offline Kluck Fabrication
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    10,425
    Couple of little things!!


    Anyone using this guide for SRT suspension take off: Springs, Struts, Sways. You will have to drop the rear end. When you drop the rear end their are four bolts that bolt to the frame 2 long ones in the back and 2 short ones in the front.

    Will be working on the front have the next weekend coming up.

  9. #39
    ARoss's Avatar
    ARoss is offline LX Newbie
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    163
    Any tips for getting the rear control arms to line up with the bolt holes on the subrame (we didn't drop the subframe)? Also, we are having trouble getting the rear arm to jack up high enough. The spring only compresses so much before the car starts to raise up.
    Sold: 2005 Magnum RT | Midnight Blue | SRT8 Suspension | SRT8 Wheels | Magnaflow exhaust

  10. #40
    miplank's Avatar
    miplank is offline LX Newbie
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    3,563
    I had the same problem...


    I used a transmission jack...it took a few times to get it to "start" to line up properly. Chances are your never going to get it to line up w/a jack. What I had to do was get a pry bar and use that to line it up while I had someone else watch and shove the bolt through when it was lined up.

    This is the worst part of lowering the lx. Just take your time, get some help and don't get too frustrated.

  11. #41
    INTREPER is offline Just Another Organic Banana!
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Central Oregon
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalRT View Post
    You may want to use a tie rod end puller instead of the pickle fork. I picked up this one for around $10 at the local parts store. A few turns with a wrench and it popped loose, with no damage to the rubber seals.
    Does anyone have a picture or drawing of how this tool is to be used on the LX? I just picked one up and I want to make sure I don't go using it incorrectly, being my first time and all I'm use to working on these

  12. #42
    keefboz's Avatar
    keefboz is offline LX Newbie
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    North London
    Posts
    53
    Someone on this post mentioned they had lowered an AWD R/T. I have just searched for the lowering springs but all of them say "does not fit AWD".

    Any suggestions?
    Hers - 06 Magnum RT AWD - Debadged, Superchips, Honeycomb Black Grill, Blastin Bobs 4 DB resonated kit SSR tips
    His - 95 Audi S6, GT2871rs turbo kit and tune, shocks/springs
    Both - 2001 Honda Civic, Daily driver!

  13. #43
    hops23's Avatar
    hops23 is offline Motor Fan Club member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,412
    Quote Originally Posted by keefboz View Post
    Someone on this post mentioned they had lowered an AWD R/T. I have just searched for the lowering springs but all of them say "does not fit AWD".

    Any suggestions?
    I lowered my 05 AWD RT with KW coilovers two years ago. At that time there were no springs available for AWDs. The only options were coilovers or bags.
    2005 Inferno Magnum R/T AWD traded
    2007 BSM Charger SRT8 traded
    2008 BSM Jeep GCSRT8: Option Group I and II. traded
    2012 Stone White GC Oveland

  14. #44
    hops23's Avatar
    hops23 is offline Motor Fan Club member
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    2,412
    Quote Originally Posted by INTREPER View Post
    Does anyone have a picture or drawing of how this tool is to be used on the LX? I just picked one up and I want to make sure I don't go using it incorrectly, being my first time and all I'm use to working on these
    Loosen the nut under the upper arm. Slide the jaws under the boot. Turn the bolt on the tool until it places pressure on the bottom of the upper arm bolt. Wrench until the arm bolt pops loose. You'll need a hex wrench on the bottom of the arm bolt to be able to take the nut off completely.
    Last edited by hops23; 04-08-2008 at 05:47 PM. Reason: bottom not top of arm bolt

  15. #45
    Jaxon's Avatar
    Jaxon is offline Facebook/JaxonsGarage
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Rockville, MD
    Posts
    243
    I'm having a problem with the rear's. I took the rear shock off. Compressed the rear spring a little bit with the a spring compressor. I took the nut off the bolt holding the A-arm to the frame. I placed the hydrolic jack under the A-arm. I can't seem to get the stud out of the A-arm. Should I take a hammer to it? 2 jaw puller? Will I stip the threads this way?
    Last edited by Jaxon; 01-28-2008 at 10:56 AM.

Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •