First your gonna want to raise the car up and secure them on suitable jack stand..... OR you can just put your car on the lift. I know everyone has a lift.
Impact Wrench/Breaker Bar
3M Super 77 Multipurpose Adhesive (not required)
Using the Breaker bar or Air Impact wrench and the 21mm socket (or different for the aftermarket wheel/lug guys), remove the wheels and set aside.
1) This step is optional, some people may disagree. But in my years of service work i found that a lot of squealing comes from vibration/movement between the pad and piston. SO if you adhere the pads to the pistons, problem solved. Before you start the brake job lay out the pads on the box they came in or on some cardboard and spray them with 3M Super 77 Multipurpose adhesive. Do this before the brake job so they can get tacky by the time you need them.
2) Once you have the wheels off this is what you will start out with:
3) Take the punch and hammer and punch out the slide pins
4) Now, some people have bought or rented a pad spreader from stores and vendors. I think it's a waste of money. Use the large pliers and open them up like below. Take both hands and open the pliers which in turn will spread the pads a good bit. More than enough to get the old pads out.
5) I didn't get a picture, but; Remove the pads now. They will just slide out, you may have to give them a little shake or jiggle.
6) Once they are out, take the pliers you used earlier and open them up and insert into one side of the caliper between the pistons and the rotor making sure each end of the pliers is against each piston. Pry against the rotor slowly to compress the pistons; then do the other side. See below
7) Take the slide pins and clean them up with a rag and take some of the grease supplied with most pads and put a light coat on them slide pins. This helps the pads slide back and forth easier!
8) Insert new pads
9) Once the pads are in, put the slide pins in and tap into place. I find it easy to turn the punch around and use light taps with the hammer to tap them into place!!
Viola... that corner is done and it should resemble this! Granted the pins aren't all the way in, but you get the idea, lol
Since you're already under there go ahead and clean up that nasty ass caliber, strut, inner fender, disk, ect... It looks so much better clean, ha
The rear is the same thing!!
Use punch and hammer to punch out and remove slide pins
- Refer to the step 4 above on how to spread the pads using the large pliers!
Remove the pads
- Refer to step 6 above to push in the pistons using the large pliers
- Refer to step 7 on cleaning and greasing slide pins
- Refer to step 8 on installing the new pads
- Insert slide pins and tap into place with hammer and punch
Now you are done with the Rear.
Repeat these steps for the other side and you're done!
This should do it for changing the pads on an SRT8!
Great write up
Magnum Owners Club Member #1430
Current Mods: 20" Chrome Clads,R/T Powerslot Rotors,R/T Calipers,Diablosport Tuner,JBA Shorty Headers,Big Bully Intake(FREAKINN AWESOME), Injunwiz's Stock R/T Dual Exhaust, SRT Suspension, Debadged.
beans to you...pretty easy job for anyone. No sense in paying for working on a car you love...doesnt require many tools and is well worth the satisfaction of a completed job.
Be sure to check out the many threads to bedding the brakes correctly...and then be happy
**No Longer an LX Owner - just a crazy lurker with sign on priveleges
Question about the 3M adhesive spray adhesive... I have no idea how long you've been using that method (Jr. uses some sort of anti-squeal spray on grease, and from what he said it was hi-temp and it worked pretty well). Having gone through several cans of that particular adhesive myself one of the only things that I really remember about the labeling is that it pretty much says "FLAMMABLE" everywhere. I'm doubtful that this stuff has the ability to resist high temps. I know that is very true about in aerosol form, but I'm pretty sure that doesn't change too much when its tacked up.
What can you say about your long term experience with this method? Sounds like a great way to solve a common problem, I'm just worried about how it may react to the heat encountered in daily driving.
Last edited by carchitect; 03-16-2009 at 04:04 PM.
2006 Inferno Red Charger R/T|Zoomers|C&L Intake|Retro Mag 500 Wheels|Pedders Touring Plus w/ adjustable camber|General Grabber UHP 255/55/18|Flat Black Daytona Grille|BT Catch Can|SRT-8 Rear Diffuser|Mopar Chin Spoiler
i have one question...did u reuse ur locking nut, the one that holds the rotor on the stud...or did u go buy another one...what is the part number if u bought another one...thanks
Make sure to check the calipers are not leaking.SRT8 calipers are notorious for corroded pistons in the caliper.
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Do we have a Brembo pad switch in the KB yet? Junior did you do one already?
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seems easy enough....doing pads and rotors tomorrow.....nice write up man!!
Jeep GCSRT8: blacked out, LEDs, HIDs, Diablo, full inside and under the hood BT, Stillen headlight covers, Neffy Wrap, Mopar CAI, Eibach/BWoody combo, JL stereo, custom 2 can Borla S-Type exhaust, etc, etc
6.4 Apache Heads, 6.1 SB, SRT-MAxx Cam, 6.1 Intake, 87mm TB Ported by MM, TTi Long Tubes and Mid pipes, Dyno-Max Ultra-Flow 3" Exhaust, LMI 4" CAI, Predator, BC Racing Suspension, Magnum front w/69 Cuda Grill inserts, Trufiber SRT8 hood, SLP 25% Under Drive Pulley, Zeitronix Wideband, Hotchkis Sway Bars, SPC Front/Rear Camber Kits, 3.06 GETRAG, Builder Bill Billet Stator 3200 TC, Flex-Plate & Valve Body, MTCM, Brembo brake set and Dyno Tuned by AJ Hemituner.
Any tips on changing out the rotor?
Where should get my new rotor and pad?
Thanks in advance for helping the newbie MSRT owner out!!