Axle install.....also applies to swapping 6.1 rear into 5.7

[Hemi31]

I don't have any pics yet, but as soon as the next install comes in I will get them.

Tools Needed:

Strong 3/8" Ratchet and breaker bar
21mm short socket
18mm short socket
15 mm deep socket
13mm deep socket
1 1/4" socket and 1/2" ratchet for axle nut
18" 3/8 drive extension
3/8 drive swivel
12 point 3/8" socket,3/8 drive
5/16" allen key or socket
18mm box wrench
T-60 Torx socket
large flat blade screwdriver or small prybar.
small flat blade screwdriver
small hammer
small piece of soft pine.
4 Jack stands and a good Jack......2-3 ton is preferable.


OK.......take a deep breath cause it's not as scary as it looks....a second set of hands is helpful....but not imperative.

Start by getting the car in the air.I like to put the first two jack stands in the rear pockets on the rocker panels.Get it up as high as possible.
Next the exhaust needs to come off(in one piece).Loosen the forward clamps,remove the center brace,use a little wd-40 on the center rubbers and pry them off the exhaust hooks,then remove the four 13mm bolts holding the rear hangers while someone holds the tips up.If your by your self you can let them down.....just put some cardboard under the tips and polished parts.
Now wiggle the exhaust back and forth till it slides off the cat pipes and pull it out from under the car and out of the way.

Ok.......get the rear wheels off.Set the E-Brake.Using the 1 1/4 socket remove the axle nuts.
Now jack up the control arms slowly so they are horizontal to the ground and stick the jackstands under them.....this needs to be done to make room for the axles to swing.

Put the transmission in neutral so you can turn the driveshaft.Release E-brake.

So now that your completely committed(or should be)......grab the T-60 Torx and the 18mm box wrench and take out the four driveshaft bolts on the differential side of the yolk(silver ones).....you will need to pry the driveshaft back from the pinion.Move the shaft out of the way.
Place the jack under the differential and bring the pad up so it just makes contact.
Using the 5/16 allen socket remove the allen bolt from the front of the differential.
Now get the 21mm ratchet and the breaker bar.The two remaining bolts are in the cradle right in front of the spare tire well......there is only enough room to barely get the ratchet in.You need to take 3-4 pulls and switch sides......work it back and forth like this walking the diferential forward till both bolts are out(this is the biggest PITA both removal and replacement).
Once the differential is free you want to lower the jack slowly,The differential will want to go forward as it goes down so walk the jack with it.Stop the jack about halfway down.You should now be ready to use the prybar to pop the axle out of the differential.You only need to move it about a half inch with the prybar.pry on the axle flange not the seal flange.Do the drivers side first.Once the axle is sliding freely you need to wiggle the differential around till you can move the axle out far enough to angle completely out of the differential,then slide it out of the hub.Now you can do the passanger side easily.
Lower the differential to the floor.


If you are installing heavy duty halfshafts see note 1.
Now......if your doing DSS halfshafts and need to change the tone rings see note 2.

Installation:Check differential seals,replace if necessary.
EDIT:This is important and I just ran into it.Get a micrometer or dial caliper and check the dimensions of the old axle to the new axle.I ran into an issue with the machining being off a couple of thousandths on a set of 5.7 HD axles.It wasn't much but it kept them from going in the differential.


(Read this if doing 5.7/6.1 swap:You must grind down the side of the emergency brake cable braket flush with the ridge on the knuckle or the CV loint won't clear.)
Slide halfshafts into the hubs(Oil or anti-sieze the splines) and install and tighten axle nuts.(157 LbFt)Remember,left side is short.


Raise the differential to the removal height.Oil the Splines and slide the passanger side axle into the differential and seat it.Carefully work the drivers side axle in(watch the seal) and raise the jack till axle is all the way in.Make sure it's seated.

Raise the differential back into position and carefully get the 21mm bolts started(I use antiseze here).Make sure you don't cross thread these.....if your unsure STOP!!

Tighten the 21mm bolts(162 lbft) and then replace the allen bolt(48lbft)
Next reinstall the driveshaft and tighten bolts(43lbft)
remove the jackstands under the control arms.
Slide the exhaust back under the car.Hold the front of the system up and put the brace back on......this will help if your alone.I will use a strap and tie the rear of the exhaust up so I can get it back on the cat pips......once in place put the center rubbers back on the pipes,remove strap,then install the 4 rear mounts,and finally retighten the forward clamps.
Put your wheels back on and let the car down.



Note 1:
_______

Replacing the hubs for heavy duty halfshafts:
Make sure you have the studs pressed into the hubs before installation on car.

While the axles are out of the car using an 18mm socket remove the caliper and hang out of the way with wire.Remove the rotor.Using the 18" extension,12point 3/8" socket and swivel remove the four bolts holding the hub on from the backside of the knuckle.......remove stock hub and replace with heavy duty hub.Reinstall bolts and torque to 50 lbft.
Reinstall rotor and caliper.(70lbft)

Note 2:
______

If installing DSS halfshafts you will need to transfer the tone rings from your stock halfshafts.

This is not difficult but you need to be very careful as replacement Tone rings are not available and you will be buying another axle to get one!

Do this one shaft at a time and do not mix up sides.The driver side shaft is the shorter of the two.

Make a note of where the ring seats on the old shaft.....notice there is a small gap.....make sure you match that on the new shaft.....if it's off you'll get codes.

Using a small flat blade screwdriver pry gently on the ring working slowly around a little at a time till it pops off......be very careful not to damage the magnetic material....Or you will get codes.

Place it on the new shaft and work it on with your fingers slowly till you can't get it any further.From there I use a small hammer and a piece of very soft pine and tap it evenly around the ring till it is seated.......again....be very careful not to damage the ring......or you will get codes.


Note 3:If installing 6.1 rear into 5.7 then you will need to swap the rear of the driveshaft......which is as simple as sliding the old off and the new 6.1 on.Line up the spline ans it goes right on.

Note 4:Check the axle splines and sleeves with a micrometer or dial caliper to make sure they are the same size.

Good Luck and hope this helps.

[Jaak]

Yes, Erik, it helps a lot and Token, Hemiwagn and I used it as a guide today, thanks!

Nuts on the upgraded axles I have are a different size than the stock ones, so I'll need to pick up what appears to be a 36 mm socket to torque them.

Brake caliper torque spec for the SRT8 is 96 ft-lbs according to the 06 LX service manual.

I don't have a press, so I pulled the studs in by tightening the nuts through a wheel. Lube them well before doing this and walk go around all five in steps to pull them as straight as possible.

Diff oil according to the service manual is Mopar Synthetic Gear & Axle Lubricant 75W- 140. You won't spill any. But have some handy for what you do spill. ;-)

The 21 mm bolts, if you have two 21 mm sockets and ratchets, just leave them on when you pull the diff, it's easier to switch back and forth, or if you have help, you can both loosen and tighten at the same time.

The allen bolt on the front of the diff, may have the part with the nut in it, spin. If you can't get the weight of the diff to pull down enough to stop it from spinning, you can pry down on the diff with the 21mm's loose to put enough pressure on it.

Erik, your guide is fantastic and we referenced it many times.

Again, thanks!

Definately Beans....

[Jaak]

Oh, and we screwed up and didn't take pictures either, except for Hemiwagn at the very end... Oops.

The Corsa exhaust was a bit easier, we disconnected each pipe just in front of the diff, so the cross brace and muffler didn't have to be moved.

Diff seals are cheap, just do them. It's easy.

We did the DSS half shafts, so we did it all...

[razman131]

the Aug 08 MOPAR Action (09 Chally on cover) has a pretty indepth article about swapping out the rear axels on a MSRT8 using new parts from The Driveshaft Shop (DSS).

wonder if it was yall they profiled in that article???

[STAGE 3 R/T]

Dayum great right up Erik!!!

[fnkychkn]

great write up, Erik.
i'd like to add that you should chock the front wheels before lifting the rear off the ground.

[Jaak]

I emailed the Drive Shaft Shop on the axle nut torque spec. Damn, I need another torque wrench! I also asked about the dust cover over the seal, since theirs doesn't have one.

Hi
the nut should be torque 250lbs, as for the tin shield please leave it off as they come loose and rattle under the car.

[Jaak]

Since I don't have a torque wrench for 250 ft/lbs ( and I truly wonder if that's necessary ) think the stock torque spec of 157 ft/lbs is fine?

[Jaak]

Since I don't have a torque wrench for 250 ft/lbs ( and I truly wonder if that's necessary ) think the stock torque spec of 157 ft/lbs is fine?

Tried it. ROTFLMFAO!!!! Not a chance. Took it up higher with breaker bar. You can definately feel when it's stopped tightening and 157 isn't it.

Used the old calibrated hand, but kept it shy of 250 by a bit, I'm sure.

[Hemi31]

Jaak I put them on with a 300lb ft Impact gun.

[Jaak]

I believe it. They need it. Thanks Erik!

[Cam]

Great write-up E.

Hey Jack and who ever else: If you take a 21mm 1/2" drive shallow socket and cut or grind it down to the point that the depth of the socket is equal to the thickness of the head of the bolt. It works like a champ and you can get it in and out. Also, I purchased a 14mm X 1.5mm tap for running the threads in the housing. Makes it ten times easier to install the bolts.

[madmanadam]

Hats off to the ones that change these at the track or by themselves. Thanks for the write up!


Is my tone ring broke?
This how it came out.
Is it best to do one side at a time?
This has not been one of fun mods but a pain for me.
Has anyone done this on a lift?

[Hemi31]

Tone ring looks fine.When you reinstall them put the pass side axle in first then the drivers.

[madmanadam]

first off thanks,
Could you tell me if the tone ring came in two pieces? or is the thin ring the ring?