3.5 High output owners... is the predator worth it?

[hskr]

Hey hair, are you running a true cai into the fender or are you running a short ram intake? Your torque number are the same as mine were when I pulled without the filter in the fender. My other pull was with my short ram. The torque curve peaked at 218.

Yes, I have a fender pull "true" CAI. Have not tried it with out the tube into the fender. From past experience it's always been better to get the filter out of the engine bay, especially at low speeds or when stopped than to suck in the hot underhood air.

[DET-TANK]

Running the 93 CAI Canned tune, I saw IMMEDIATE positive changes in how the 300c accelerated and drove in general. I then raised the shift points and the shift firmness with the preset levels available.

I am VERY happy with my purchase. Paying $135 shipped from a member here was a bonus!

[scott386]

Another question : Can i use the tuner on both my magnum and charger? Both have the 3.5.....

[H20burycharger]

Another question : Can i use the tuner on both my magnum and charger? Both have the 3.5.....

If I'm not mistake only one vin # or car at a time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hskr]

You can, but you can only use it on one at a time. meaning if you have a Diablo tune in your charger, your Magnum will have to be set to stock first and vice versa.

[gunracer]

True, but at idle our intake tubes sit right over the left header bank and it will be sucking up a lot of heat regardless of where you are pulling from.

Yes, I have a fender pull "true" CAI. Have not tried it with out the tube into the fender. From past experience it's always been better to get the filter out of the engine bay, especially at low speeds or when stopped than to suck in the hot underhood air.

[torred 3.5]

fender pull is still better overall, I still have to install, it's an ebay one. Funny thing is the ebay one is the cheapest, but it's the most authentic CAI.

[Stumblin Steve]

fender pull is still better overall, I still have to install, it's an ebay one. Funny thing is the ebay one is the cheapest, but it's the most authentic CAI.

I would look into at least replacing the elbows because eBay intakes are so cheap it may mean some of the material is cheap and may collapse under the pressure, I've heard of that happening.

[hskr]

True, but at idle our intake tubes sit right over the left header bank and it will be sucking up a lot of heat regardless of where you are pulling from.

The problem isn't so much the intake tube sitting above the exhaust. Once air starts flowing the intake tube, being metal, cools off relatively quickly. The problem is the plastic intake manifold that gets heat soaked sitting right on top of the motor. When data logging at the track if I park to try and let the engine cool down, the intake manifold heat soaks and takes forever to cool off. Even after 1 hour of sitting with the hood up as soon as I start the motor the intake temp sensor is reading close to the same as the coolant temp, and took about half way down the track at WOT to even come close to getting to the outside air temp coming in through the CAI. Where as if I hot lap even with sitting still for a couple minutes, the intake temp stayed lower due to the cool air flowing in from the intake keeping the manifold cooler and intake air temps cooler, which is also how I ran my best pass at the track. It was the fourth run of back to back hot laps with only a couple minutes spent in the staging lanes each time.

[torred 3.5]

I'm actually kind of getting excited for the predator, i want to know what it feels like to get an extra 15 or so hp.

I see a lot of people run 93 and 91 tunes, what's the best for a daily driver that does 100% city driving?

and can i run a 91 tune with 89 octane and maybe aces IV added in that? Thanks for the help in advance.

[jonny]

I'm actually kind of getting excited for the predator, i want to know what it feels like to get an extra 15 or so hp.

I see a lot of people run 93 and 91 tunes, what's the best for a daily driver that does 100% city driving?

and can i run a 91 tune with 89 octane and maybe aces IV added in that? Thanks for the help in advance.

I always just ran the 93 tune with 93 octane... I see the extra $2 per tank as inconsequential.

Do the math, yourself. It isn't "free" like advertised (ACES), check your local gas prices differentials, and what you paid for the product WITH SHIPPING. It comes out to about $0.40 per gallon. Last I checked, the differential between mid grade and high test was $0.10 per gallon. (We only have 87, 89 and 93 in my area)

10.6 tankfulls per quart of ACES, about $7 per tank extra for the additive, versus less than $2 (or $4 depending on location) for using the right octane to begin with. Someones math is a little... off.

Your best bet to know if you can run reduced octane with a higher tune is to do what I did, and it's a simple test. Hook a laptop to your Predator, run the gas you expect to run (89 and ACES IV in your example) and datalog some good hard runs. See if you have knock. I would think it's also important to datalog right when you switch over, so the adaptives don't just pull timing and learn to keep it that way... not sure how long term it pulls timing, but I would imagine you could have reduced timing and not show on your Predator or logs.

FWIW, driving normally you could probably run 87 and a 93 tune without knock... but step on it a bit and you'll have a boatload.

Run what you want for fuel, just make an informed decision about it.

[gunracer]

I run the 91 tune with 93 octane gas. The 91 tune doesn't have as much timing as the 93 tune so on a hot day with a hot motor you knock sensors should stay a little quieter. But nothing beats a custom tune.

[gunracer]

The problem isn't so much the intake tube sitting above the exhaust. Once air starts flowing the intake tube, being metal, cools off relatively quickly. The problem is the plastic intake manifold that gets heat soaked sitting right on top of the motor. When data logging at the track if I park to try and let the engine cool down, the intake manifold heat soaks and takes forever to cool off. Even after 1 hour of sitting with the hood up as soon as I start the motor the intake temp sensor is reading close to the same as the coolant temp, and took about half way down the track at WOT to even come close to getting to the outside air temp coming in through the CAI. Where as if I hot lap even with sitting still for a couple minutes, the intake temp stayed lower due to the cool air flowing in from the intake keeping the manifold cooler and intake air temps cooler, which is also how I ran my best pass at the track. It was the fourth run of back to back hot laps with only a couple minutes spent in the staging lanes each time.

Its not the intake manifold that matters temp wise its the turn just before the throttle body that hold the temp sensor. I had my intake tube jet hot coated to keep the heat out a little longer but like all metal, no matter what you do to it if its left in the heat long enough it will get soaked. Now, I have a dual ram air set up on my car. One is in the obvious place, my hood. It really starts cooling my intake at 45-50 mph. But my secondary and the one that works first is my lower ram air. Since im running a srt bumper I utilized the brake duct but before then when I got to the track I would remove the driver side fog light and attach the ram air tube there via a metal plate that I made and piece of 4"od tubing and some 4" flex hose through the factory hole and it starts cooling g at around 20. Now, I taped my hood off and used the lower only for a couple of passes and found that launching off the line with an intake temp of 110, by the time my car shifted into second(45mph) intake was 80, crossing the finish line it was 60. Outside air was 60.

[hskr]

Yes you can run the 91 tune on 89oct with the Aces IV, or the 83 tune on 91oct with the AcesIV. I've data logged both ways and you get minimal KR at WOT

[hskr]

Its not the intake manifold that matters temp wise its the turn just before the throttle body that hold the temp sensor. I had my intake tube jet hot coated to keep the heat out a little longer but like all metal, no matter what you do to it if its left in the heat long enough it will get soaked. Now, I have a dual ram air set up on my car. One is in the obvious place, my hood. It really starts cooling my intake at 45-50 mph. But my secondary and the one that works first is my lower ram air. Since im running a srt bumper I utilized the brake duct but before then when I got to the track I would remove the driver side fog light and attach the ram air tube there via a metal plate that I made and piece of 4"od tubing and some 4" flex hose through the factory hole and it starts cooling g at around 20. Now, I taped my hood off and used the lower only for a couple of passes and found that launching off the line with an intake temp of 110, by the time my car shifted into second(45mph) intake was 80, crossing the finish line it was 60. Outside air was 60.

I have the SRT style bumper as well, but don't go to any extra lengths to get a ram air effect with my fender pull CAI. I've also noticed that if I laucnhed with a intake temp any higher than 100 degrees my times suffered significantly. My best run of 9.85 1/8th mile came with about a 90 degree intake temp when launching and it had hit about 55 degrees by the end of the run. Outside airtemp was low 50s. And that was the end of those 4 consecutive hot laps. Letting the car sit to try and cool down resulting in 150+ degree intake temps upon launch and never getting below 70 degrees by the end of the run. Now obviously the air coming in was cooler than that as it takes a while for a heat soaked temp sensor to cool down. Maybe I should move the temp sensor closer to the hole in the fender where the tube goes through. Have the PCM bump the timing sooner.

I also launch with foot on the brake and gas pedal all the way down, then just let off the brake. Gave me the most consistent 60' times and best ETs rather than trying any other way.