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  1. #1
    cmdycrzr's Avatar
    cmdycrzr is offline LX Padiwan
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    2.7L Engine Swap

    I've been searching around on the 2.7L engine to find out if the issues (e.g., sludge, bent valves, etc) have any truth to them and came across this site.

    It's kind of a bittersweet find in that there are a lot of used SEs for sale around me and it's a less expensive way to acquire a Magnum but I am hesitant with the 2.7L.

    Anyway, some resolution if the 2.7L craps out.

    http://www.2-7-fix.com/4436.html
    "...growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional..."

  2. #2
    fnkychkn's Avatar
    fnkychkn is offline rain dance maggie
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    the earlier versions of this engine were susceptible to sludging under less than ideal maintenance intervals. have not seen this problem on a well maintained 2.7L engine since 2000 model year. change your oil every 3 months or 3000 miles and you will never have a sludge problem.
    Izzy pics money talks. unfortunately, mine usually says... "good bye!"

  3. #3
    LXR/T is offline LXOWNR2BE
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    2002 Intrepid with about 60,000KM's the customer had to have the engine replaced 2 times. has to do with the small little port that provides lubrication to the top of the engine and sludges up and causes partial or complete blockeage allowing for the top of the engine to not receive proper lubrication thus causing engine failure, however a well maintained 2.7 is Decent however I would rather have a 3.5 HO SOHC myself if I were to consider a 6 Cylinder Engine.

  4. #4
    cmdycrzr's Avatar
    cmdycrzr is offline LX Padiwan
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    Would the use of a synthetic oil prevent this from happening? I also see there are timing belt issues letting go around the 50k-60k mile mark and worse case scenario will take out the valves and pistons.

    I don't have a real "warm and fuzzy" about this engine!
    "...growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional..."

  5. #5
    fnkychkn's Avatar
    fnkychkn is offline rain dance maggie
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    no timing belts on this engine. they use chains and oil fed tensioners. every one i've seen grenaded had oil feed passage to tensioner sludged up.
    Izzy pics money talks. unfortunately, mine usually says... "good bye!"

  6. #6
    Old Navy's Avatar
    Old Navy is offline Cranky Old Fart
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    If you use a ACEA A3/B3 oil such as the Mobil 1 0w-40 you can can safely do 6k mile oil changes as the oil is formulated for long durration oil changes 20k + miles and was also designed with high heat shear factor for chain driven OHC engines. This oil was formulated special originally for MB engines that are basicly identical to our 2.7L engine.

    This oil is standard fill in 6.1L SRT8, and as well as all MB gas engines and diesels without exhuast particle traps. I use the Mobil 1 0w-40 in my SE with Mobil 1 synthetic oil filter, and will do 6k oil changes as I am not in heavy intercity traffic or dusty area.
    Lead, follow, or get the hell out of the way.

    '05 MB E320 CDI Alpine White, mine 145 MPH+ & 37 MPG

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  7. #7
    convbcuda's Avatar
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    Manufacturers have been known to deny warranty claims if you don't change the oil per the owner's manual. During the warranty period, go with what the intervals that the manufacturer requires, not what the oil manufacturer says. Keep your receipts, too.

    69 Road Runner Convertible - 528 Hemi

  8. #8
    Old Navy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by convbcuda
    Manufacturers have been known to deny warranty claims if you don't change the oil per the owner's manual. During the warranty period, go with what the intervals that the manufacturer requires, not what the oil manufacturer says. Keep your receipts, too.
    Per owners manual you can do the 6k mile oil change under proper conditions and that was stated in my first posting. With the Mobil 1 0w-40 synthetic oil and Mobil 1 synthetic filter, most drivers can easy do the 6k miles even in a daily commute from the 'burbs to the city and back with this oil and filter use. Heck my VW's have done 10k mile oil changes with synthetic oil for years, current VW is at 60k with 10k oil changes and has never used any oil between changes.
    Lead, follow, or get the hell out of the way.

    '05 MB E320 CDI Alpine White, mine 145 MPH+ & 37 MPG

    '91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo, wife's 117 MPH & 33 MPG

  9. #9
    2.7_MAGNUM's Avatar
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    Hey i have an intrepid that we are rebulding, and it had the 2.7 and we bought it for $750 about three weeks ago, but guess what happened to the engine? Yup sluge killed it. i have a few pics of the bearings and the crank shaft. we are going to replace the engine soon. does anyone what to see the pics?

  10. #10
    Old Navy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2.7_MAGNUM
    Hey i have an intrepid that we are rebulding, and it had the 2.7 and we bought it for $750 about three weeks ago, but guess what happened to the engine? Yup sluge killed it. i have a few pics of the bearings and the crank shaft. we are going to replace the engine soon. does anyone what to see the pics?
    Sounds good to me.

    Lead, follow, or get the hell out of the way.

    '05 MB E320 CDI Alpine White, mine 145 MPH+ & 37 MPG

    '91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo, wife's 117 MPH & 33 MPG

  11. #11
    67alecto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmdycrzr
    I've been searching around on the 2.7L engine to find out if the issues (e.g., sludge, bent valves, etc) have any truth to them and came across this site.

    It's kind of a bittersweet find in that there are a lot of used SEs for sale around me and it's a less expensive way to acquire a Magnum but I am hesitant with the 2.7L.

    Anyway, some resolution if the 2.7L craps out.

    http://www.2-7-fix.com/4436.html
    Everything I've ever read about this issue (did a lot a few years ago since I was sure an Intrepid was going to be our next car) said that the sludge build up was from people stretching out the recommended oil change intervals to fit with what they felt they should get - that is, 5k miles instead of 3k miles.

    There are a lot of used SEs and base 300s for sale because that is the engine of choice for rental cars. Check out some of those SEs' odometers and they'll be 20-30k I bet.
    "Walkin' the thin white line on this smiling road. 40 days, I've been all alone. Draggin' my heart all across this world. I got 100 miles to go before I get back to see my girl. Aint got nothing, I got nothing to lose. I keep walking away these blues. The cup is broken, but it's half full. I got 100 miles to go before I get back to see my girl."


    100 Mile Blues - Scott Keeton and The Deviants

  12. #12
    Old Navy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67alecto
    Everything I've ever read about this issue (did a lot a few years ago since I was sure an Intrepid was going to be our next car) said that the sludge build up was from people stretching out the recommended oil change intervals to fit with what they felt they should get - that is, 5k miles instead of 3k miles.

    There are a lot of used SEs and base 300s for sale because that is the engine of choice for rental cars. Check out some of those SEs' odometers and they'll be 20-30k I bet.
    That's pretty much correct, they went to many miles between the oil changes. But the real problem was no one was using a proper oil designed for the engine, most of the common used oils that were high shear strength enough for the chain & sprocket DOHC was too thick to flow properly through the oil returns. All auto engines mfg after Jan '97 had had their oil return lines made smaller due to EPA mandate, on some engines that ran a higher head temp then other engines suffered greatly from sludge build up because they could not flow the oil fast enough to keep oil cool.

    The way Chrysler cured the problem eventully was to change to 5w oil and larger oil sumps. The car will not sludge if a oil with high temp high shear strength is used that is thin enough for proper flow and has propper additive package for keeping the engine clean.

    A non synthetic oil that will keep sludge from building, with high heat shear strenght for the chain & sprocket in a 0w or 5w as far as I know does not exist. That does not mean one doesen't, I just haven't checked to see. A synthetic oil like Mobil 1 0w-40 (there are other brands, but this is oil easier found then most others) will meet the high temp shear strength, viscosity needed, with proper additive package to keep soot (which forms sludge) in suspension and keep the engine clean. The Mobil 1 0w-40 can easy do 6,000 mile oil change in these engines, unless it's driven like a NYC taxi cab. I have mine on that OCI and don't expect any problems, but to be safe I will do an oil sample test at the 20,000 mile mark and let all know the results here at the forum.
    Lead, follow, or get the hell out of the way.

    '05 MB E320 CDI Alpine White, mine 145 MPH+ & 37 MPG

    '91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo, wife's 117 MPH & 33 MPG

  13. #13
    snailtek is offline LX Padiwan
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    Talking

    old navy,

    i too have an SE with 16000 miles on it and wanting to change oil b4 the 2nd visit @ 18000 miles (recommended).

    i bought mine used @ 14997 miles 2 months ago and this car is a rental car.. well.. i have a good deal for it for 17.5 grand with remaining warranty + lojack + extended warranty.

    as far as manufactured date? its december of 2004

    so, my question is.. what oil are u using?
    05 Silver Magnum SE <= that's all i can afford =>
    Stock! Nothing Exciting! But.. got u-connect, homelink, NAV & VES, 18" R/T wheels.

  14. #14
    Old Navy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snailtek
    old navy,

    i too have an SE with 16000 miles on it and wanting to change oil b4 the 2nd visit @ 18000 miles (recommended).

    i bought mine used @ 14997 miles 2 months ago and this car is a rental car.. well.. i have a good deal for it for 17.5 grand with remaining warranty + lojack + extended warranty.

    as far as manufactured date? its december of 2004

    so, my question is.. what oil are u using?
    Mobil 1 0w-40 European Formula that can be found at the dealer, Autozone or other such chain parts stores, in some areas it can also be found at Wal-Mart. My mfg date was July if I remember correctly. Sure love the car, I had the dealership do all the flash upgrades and it really made a difference in the way it runs.

    If you are going to be doing your own oil changes or if you want to avoid the oil change monkey cross threading your drain plug, I recommend you install a FUMOTO OIL DRAIN PLUG part number F-106N (no adapter needed) to aid your oil draining. I have used them for years and I have never had a leak or failure and they make the oil change so much easier. One nice thing is you can attach a 3/8th inch (ID) hose and drain it to the side of the car or down to the drain pan without spashing it all over the place.

    PS: Welcome to the Magnum world and the forum.
    Last edited by Old Navy; 10-12-2005 at 10:32 PM.
    Lead, follow, or get the hell out of the way.

    '05 MB E320 CDI Alpine White, mine 145 MPH+ & 37 MPG

    '91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo, wife's 117 MPH & 33 MPG

  15. #15
    snailtek is offline LX Padiwan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Navy
    I had the dealership do all the flash upgrades and it really made a difference in the way it runs.
    just wondering about the flash.. what are u refering to? computer flash? any additional info? do i need that? or how do i know what flaskes i need?
    05 Silver Magnum SE <= that's all i can afford =>
    Stock! Nothing Exciting! But.. got u-connect, homelink, NAV & VES, 18" R/T wheels.

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