Warped Rotors - I know there are other threads...

[a76marine]

Hey all,

I know there are other threads on warped rotors, but some are outdated and others are just too "performance" for my everyday driver.

I would like to know what everyone's been doing when their rotors warp? I have 23K on my RT and that looks to be the average life of a set of OEM's. I don't want to have to replace them in another 20K since that took me less than a year to put on the car.

What is the best aftermarket set of rotors that's as close to the price of the OEM's as possible? I'm in college so I am not looking to shell out the cash for slotted and coated or anything.

Should I let the Stealer err Dealer put on OEM's or is there a better alternative?

Thanks!!

[a76marine]

No one?

[MattRobertson]

Are you sure that the rotors are warped? Lots of folks re-bed the brakes and the shudder goes away. Have you tried that?

[a76marine]

I haven't tried that, but I did have Maggie in to the dealer to have the brakes looked at due to a pulsing and high pitch whine. I had thought it just needed new pads, but of course it can never be that simple.

All the posts I see about the bedding say it comes back a month or so later. I would like to deal with this problem now and not have to deal with it again for some time.

[BobCav]

I've bed a couple of times and never had the prob come back that fast. Bedding does work but if you constantly brake hard you'll constantly leave pad material on the hot rotors, negating the effect.

[Pete Rock]

I had an interesting experience with my rotors too. I had a pretty bad shudder and recently found out what was contributing to it. If my tires, my Magnum RT is completely stock, were inflated to the OEM recommended 28psi, then I had some pretty bad shudder. If the tires were inflated to anything above 30, then the shudder almost disapears. There is still a little left and I too eventually want to replace my rotors with slotted or cross drilled rotors, but the shudder is no where near as bad.

[Padre Dave]

At about 65,000 miles, I had new rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads installed (no dealer for my car). The pads were awful, lots of dust, pulsations, etc. At 71,000 I had enough and had the rotors resurfaced and went back to OEM pads. No problems, back to super-duper...no dust, no pulsation.

Try getting the rotors resurfaced.

[allpont]

My brake pulsation was driving me crazy, so I took it to the dealer only because of other warranty work. They turned the "front" only and left the rears alone and told me they couldn't fix the problem and wanted to sell me new rotors. WHAT THE F>>>> ?

I'm taking my pride and joy to my local shop and he'll take it from there. Plus my center console arm rest was filthy as was my steering wheel. I understand every mechanic gets a little dirty, but is there NO respect.

[Jweezy]

A76,

I am almost in the EXACT same position as you. But I think I am going to buy new rotors and pads. But just like you I dont want BREMBOs or STOPTECH for 6,000 or more. I dont think it is worth it.

So I have looked at some companies on EBAY that has slotted and drilled rotors for cheaper than having your OEM brakes replaced.

Oh yea if you wanna just get your front replaced, I called a dealer and he told me how much they are for fronts each, the fronts each are $50 dollars. But the rears are 97 dollars each.

So thats basicly $300 dollars, and if you wanna get them installed plus that!

But there are some drilled and slotted on ebay that are $239 dollars. But rotors are not hard to install should take no more than 15 mins each, BOOM your brakes should last longer and look better, and cool better.

-Justin

[allpont]

justin, I don't know how much trust I'd put into all the products on Ebay. There is alot of "cheaper" stuff on there. If you or I are going to change the rotors out I'd suggest checking out the web sites of the mfgs. of high quality products, not Ebay. IMHO

[Jweezy]

oh yea, they are companies that have some of there products listed on ebay. I have went to a couple of there websites, and read reviews.

It is not some one person selling some crazy product. At least I hope. Do you know where I could buy some rotors?

[bklynmag]

MY RT has 17K on her and when I stop hard the car shakes bad. I too have been waiting till I heard of a permanent fix as I don't want to get a new set of rotors just to warp them again. I have read some saying these cars are just to darn heavy for the hardware and this will be a continuous problem for, "spirited" drivers.

BTW, does anyone know if the front wheel bearings are sealed or will we have to pull them out and re-pack when we take off the rotor? As you probably guessed I have not taken the wheels off my mag yet.

[oldschool]

Where are a couple of rotors sites people have used to get R/T rotors? I have had my car since it turned 14.5k over the summer. With 21.5k I have the same pulse. It is hard in an urban area to find a place to get some 60-10 runs in a few times. Damn the system!

oldschool

[MikeEast]

I have almost 32K on my RT and I'm what you might call a 'spirited' driver and my brakes are smooth as silk, even hauling down hard from 100+ at the dragstrip.

I've mentioned this before, several times. It's technique, not parts. The RT has some wonderful brakes and I don't expect to replace anything brake related for a long long time (unless something breaks).

I'd put another set of stockers on - unless you have piles of cash laying about for Brembo's.

Mike

[Displaced Hokie]

FYI, I just redid the brake bedding procedure but HARD this time (I could smell brake pads) - and I'm cured. I'm sure it will come back, but my first bedding got rid of most of it but the second time it's pretty much totally gone. I don't like having to do this though, as finding a back road you can do this on is kind of tough and then not hitting the brakes for 5 min is difficult. But it seems to work.