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  1. #1
    1fastdad is offline LX Padiwan
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    Suspension install issue. Please help!!!!

    After my massive ordeal doing the rears I'm done. Now my new issue is getting the upper A arm to seperate. After about tow hours of bangng away with a pickle fork and no luck I'm at a loss. I really hope someone here has a usefull tip!!! PLEASE HELP ME!!! I have a 4 hour drive home firstthing in the morning so I need to get it done today. Thanks in advance
    Wesley

    2011 Hyundai Elantra soon to be very modded
    2005 Magnum RT modded......SOLD :(

  2. #2
    SRT8U's Avatar
    SRT8U is offline www.speedlogix.net
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    Three ways..Pickle fork will do it but you will probably damage the bushing, better/easier way is a ball joint separator, and finally a good whack on the side with a hammer will do the work very quickly without the other tools
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  3. #3
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    Mine separate everytime with a balljoint separator without an issue.
    2006 Dodge Charger RT - 6.1L motor, 3.06 rear, Brembos, SRT steering & electronics * KWV2 suspension * Hotchkis sways * BWoody endlinks * SRT fascia & spoiler * Trufiber SRT hood * MSRT wheels * 6000k HID lows/fogs * Aftermarket LED headlamps * MyGIG * 1ST COMPLETE '06-'08 INTERIOR CONVERSION * AFE Stage2 CAI * catless mids * 170 tstat * Predator 93oct tune... & a bunch of other sh!t I cant remember!

  4. #4
    06BlackR/T is offline LX Padiwan
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    I just did mine yesterday. I tried for hours on Friday to get them to seperate with a mallet and a hammer. Buy a pitman arm puller, I got one for $14 at the atoparts store. Took about 45 seconds per side. It fits on the knuckle without damaging the boot of the ball joint and worked like a charm.

  5. #5
    deep309 is offline LX Newbie
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06BlackR/T View Post
    I just did mine yesterday. I tried for hours on Friday to get them to seperate with a mallet and a hammer. Buy a pitman arm puller, I got one for $14 at the atoparts store. Took about 45 seconds per side. It fits on the knuckle without damaging the boot of the ball joint and worked like a charm.
    What he said. I went to my local auto parts store and they let me loan the pitman arm puller for free. That arm POPPED off and scared the crap out of me. Make sure to tie a rope to the lower assembly so that you don't crimp the brake line.

  6. #6
    BurntOrange's Avatar
    BurntOrange is offline LX Padiwan
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    autozone has lend a tool, they have one you can use.
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  7. #7
    06BlackR/T is offline LX Padiwan
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    Quote Originally Posted by deep309 View Post
    What he said. I went to my local auto parts store and they let me loan the pitman arm puller for free. That arm POPPED off and scared the crap out of me. Make sure to tie a rope to the lower assembly so that you don't crimp the brake line.
    It was a lot louder than I expected too. Leave the nut on the end of the ball joint studd as well so when it pops free the whole assembly doesn't fall apart.

  8. #8
    Fargo59's Avatar
    Fargo59 is offline Buys a LOT of parts from Adam :)
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    hammer or the miller specialty tool.

  9. #9
    1fastdad is offline LX Padiwan
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    Thanks guys. Thathelp a lot. But now I have a new issue. Getting that nut back on. It went about three threads and now it spins everything. On my last sar there was somewhere for me to put a wrench to keep everything from spinnng. I see that's there is a spot fir an Allen key. But I dunno if that's my only solution. Any ideas? Oh and on my drivers side the swaybar endlink is sezed. Any other ideas?
    Wesley

    2011 Hyundai Elantra soon to be very modded
    2005 Magnum RT modded......SOLD :(

  10. #10
    Fargo59's Avatar
    Fargo59 is offline Buys a LOT of parts from Adam :)
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    use a pry bar against a coil spring over the top of the control arm and put weight on it. it will add friction to the turning ball joint.

  11. #11
    Blowndakrt is offline LX Newbie
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    Another thing to try is to is jack up the lower control arm to try to get the ball joint to seat into the control arm. Once it seats, there is usually enough friction to hold the ball joint shaft so you can tighten the nut.

    If that doesn't work, you are correct, there is an allen head in the end of the ball joint shaft that you can use to hold it from moving while you tighten the nut.

    Shawn

  12. #12
    1fastdad is offline LX Padiwan
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    Well the nut is no longer an issue. Now it's the sway bar end link. It's put me to a hault real fast. I want to just cut it off. But no where has any local and like I said I need to be driving tomorrow. Any one local in flint Michigan have a spair or any ideas?
    Wesley

    2011 Hyundai Elantra soon to be very modded
    2005 Magnum RT modded......SOLD :(

  13. #13
    06BlackR/T is offline LX Padiwan
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    You can fit a wrench on the end of the sway bay and turn the bolt until that hits the fender or shock. Then use an open ended wrench to turn the bolt with the wrench on the end held in place. I was able to get them both off like this.

  14. #14
    1fastsedan's Avatar
    1fastsedan is offline Warranties are for sissies.
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    Hold the end link bolt with a 10mm wrench and turn the nut (21mm I think) on with another wrench.

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  15. #15
    Fargo59's Avatar
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    heat is handy, or an impact gun, or both

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