Just to preface this thread, this is not AT ALL in reference to the Koni's performance when used with the UAS setup VS the OEM's. In my opinion, that's not even comparable as the Koni's SMASH the OEM's in the performance arena. This is simply to clear up some of the off-the-cuff statements made about how much lower the Koni's get you than the OEM's in many air ride threads. I've gone back and forth with many that the Koni's will only get you SLIGHTLY lower. I've never heard anyone that has the Koni's installed (with me being the second person in the country to have purchased them, the first to have them installed on an LX with UAS) outright state that they got them that much lower simply due to the fact that no one was really measuring pre/post Koni. I measured both before and after on my 300C, and there wasn't a noticeable enough difference worth posting. Now from a performance and all around ride comfort aspect, the Koni's are next to priceless.
I sent HEMIPHIL a message earlier asking him if I could snag some measurements from his Koni/UAS setup from the bottom of the fender lip to the ground (measuring through the hub). As you all know I sold my previous set of factory SRT8's to flaminhotkustoms, and today I met up with TommyZ and grabbed a set of factory SRT8 wheels from him to throw on for a few weeks (puttin' some miles on the SRT and didn't want to worry about the 22's). So I thought what better time to try to get some numbers on paper and see what the Koni's are really doing from a lowering aspect.
Thanks to Phil for taking the time to get some measurements. Here are some results and pictures of Phil's UAS setup with Koni's versus my UAS setup with factory Bilstein fronts and factory 300C non Nivomat rears with removed bumpstops.
Phil's measurements:
Front completely aired out - 25 7/8"
Rear completely aired out - 25 3/8"
My measurements:
Front completely aired out - 25 31/32" (Approximately 3/32" higher than Phil's)
Rear completely aired out - 25 17/32" (Approximately 5/32" higher than Phil's)
As you can see, this is only marginally lower than my OEM's. For those of you who haven't taken a close look at a tape measure in quite some time, please note that 32ths are the smallest notch on the tape. :D The Koni's are definitely still worth the purchase, but it's been grinding me lately as to many people's assumptions only from hear say and/or from those who never even had air ride on the OEM's prior to installing the Koni's/UAS.
Here are some comparison pictures. You can notice the 32ths by looking at how much rubber is exposed below the fender, although if I were to raise the camera 6"-12" higher I could make that gap look smaller in my pictures. Hence the reason why I wanted to take measurements as they're foolproof. It's no 3/4"-1" lower though as many state on the forums. Please keep in mind though that Phil has the most "fair" pictures I've seen taken on the forums. Basically bending down to a squat to snap the pic. Standing right next to the car and taking a picture down towards your own feet of the fender isn't a fair shot to give a good perspective.

You can definitely notice the slight difference as it can be seen with the naked eye, but if the Koni's were truly 3/4"-1" lower, those with Koni's would be tucking the factory wheels. This may be an extensive write-up just just to show this, but as you can all probably tell, I'm tired of hearing it on the forums in all of my air ride threads. lol
Side shot (Koni first, OEM second):
Rear (Koni first, OEM second):

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