Well I was one of the original people who had the front suspension rattle back in 2007ish. I thought this issue was solved when I changed out my pads/rotors & anti rattle clips but this damn clunk came back with a vengence! I read alot of threads and ordered new tension struts because I took a look at my suspension on a lift and my bushings (wheel side) are torn big time. Well went to go replace and it felt like the nut was starting to cross thread coming off. I'm stationed overseas in Italy so I reinstalled until I get replacement nuts. My question is how hard is this install? Is it basic just remove nuts and beat the **** out of it until it comes out? Do I need to grease anything? I ordered the beefier SRT8 tension struts and I don't see any grease fittings. My clunk is more like a high pitch tin can rattle like rocks in a beer can. And only happens when going over bumps with brakes not applied. When brakes applied it goes away. Anyways any info on changing these tension struts would be great. Also my rotors or pads are wrapped too I hear a faint grind as the rotor turns so getting rotors turned along with new pads and a brake caliper kit. My drivers side caliper guide pin is seized up....I mean even with a hammer and vice grips that pin doesn't budge! Think this could be causing my rattle as well? Any info would really help me out...italians charge a shut ton over here at the dodge dealership so trying to fix this damn rattle myself. Thanks!
2006 Charger R/T
MODS: JBA System..K&N CAI..ESP delete..93 Flashpaq..20" Black Vipers..15% tint..tinted tails..Blinker mod..Decal/Door Molding Delete..Hood decal blackout..Silverstars..Jenson 9021 touchhscreen..12" JL Sub.."Superwhite" dome lights..quarter panel stripe kit..trunk blkout..daytona grille,chin spoiler,spoiler
C'mon need some help!
Search is your friend. Tons of threads in this. Not being a dick, just trying to not reinvent the wheel.
Not sure where your rattle is from, but I just replaced one tension strut on my 05 Magnum R/T. Other one is waiting for the ball joint nut I forgot to order. Change is pretty straightforward, only a bolt and a ball joint.
Hit your ball joint threads with PB Blaster or similar, before you crank on it. Dirt and corrosion will make it feel cross-threaded. The ball joint has a 6mm Allen fitting.
You need a ball joint tool, like the Miller 9360 (LX special tool, available on ebay), or a ball joint separator (auto parts store). I suppose a BFH works but if you're not accurate you'll damage your car or injure yourself. Not sure what is available in Italy, but you may have someone in CONUS who can mail it to you. Probably still cheaper. I was in Germany so I know what you mean about the dealers...expensive. I sprung for the Miller tool.
Loosen the nut 1/8 inch or so, then pop the joint with the tool. That went fine for me, then had to cut the nut off the ball joint after the Allen stripped out, probably b/c I didn't PB Blast like I just said above.
The R/T tension struts have no grease fittings. Torques are: 130 ft lbs on the (cradle?) big bolt, and 50 ft lbs + 90 degree turn on the ball joint.
Without any problems you are looking at ~1 1/2 to 2 hrs to change both. I lost more than that having to run to Sears for a couple tools and cutting off the nut. I'm not a mechanic so that may seem slow, I don't know. I also changed the tie rods so it's really a guess.
Hope this helps.
Are you military?
2012 Dodge Charger R/T Plus
White w/Red Leather, 20x9 Huntington Bolsa wheels, otherwise stock
2005 Dodge Magnum R/T
Magnaflow, Volant, Jet Chip, SRT Charger wheels, Toyo Proxes 4 255/45 20
NC-SXT Honeycomb grille, BT shifter trim/park lockout
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4
2012 HD Road Glide Ultra
2006 HD Dyna Low Rider
FREEDOM...IT ISN'T FREE
sorry for the late response but yeah Im Air Force....my radiator is about to take a sh!t car starting to overheat randomly. Going to make a day of changing my tension struts/front sway bar end links so hopefully this makes my clunk go away. I know 100% my tension strut bushings are bad, i can visual see the bushings cracked almost around the entire thing. Auto hobby shop might have a miller tool but if not looks like BFH will have to do after i soak it with PB blast or wd40 1st. How easy is it to change both inner and outer tie rods? Can you give me the basic steps? Thanks for your help
nevermind....found the link on Knowledge base!
A generic ball joint tool may work but I'm not sure. Auto hobby will have one.
Where do you work? Are you at Aviano?
Does Pedders make bushings for these?..
Net is where I be......Nathan is me
2006 Charger SRT8
Inferno Red (Just a blur to most folks) with All Factory Options / Groups, SRT8 Mats, Side moldings/rear ram's head shaved
Billet Technology all over + valve covers and coil covers, KillerGlass Pipe, LMI FIV CAI, 180 Tstat, Magnaflow 3" exhaust
BES/HHP Stage II Heads/Cam/Intake/BBK 85mm TB, NoESP TranZformer
Hotchkis sways and BFGoodrich 275/40/20 Sport Comp-2 paws
Predator + CMR = "Custom Dyno/Street Tuned PCM"
Yes, but don't waste your money. The joints are so prone to failure that you will just be wasting your $ like I did.
Yes I'm at Aviano...cant wait to leave in 7 months! Work over at F16 Phase Dock. This place makes working on your car a nightmare waiting on parts to get here. My car is getting some much needed TLC here in about 2 weeks.....changing spark plugs, radiator fans, 180 thermostat, coolant flush, AC filter, koni shocks, mopar springs, tension struts, sway bar end links, inner/outer tie rods, new brake pads, new rotors, new front brake hardware (guide pin seized up) and a HID kit a bought 4 months ago and never got around to installing it. If these parts dont fix my clunking I'm seriously going to go insane! Ive read 1000 threads on this issue and 90% of the time its either tension strut/end links/tie rods.