Need New Rotors ( What to get )

[Popeye's Hemi]

Hey guys, looks like I need to get new rotors for the front ( for now ). I have about 20K on a set of Slotted and drilled rotors front and back from BrakePlanet.com. I have recently been experiencing a horrible wobble in the steering when I hit the brakes sharply at 75 plus MPH. I can feel a slight wobble when driving around town but only very slight. I have with in the last 6 months replaced the inner and outer tie rods. I have 5 months on a Eibach Pro setup. Tires look great no unusual wear front or back. I have not hit any curbs or pot holes. No pulling to either side and the balancing is great no problems their. I have not checked to see if the rotors are warped, but if they are I was wondering what you all suggest? I would at least like to keep the slotted type in the new set.

You guys are the Best of the Best, the Elite of so many!!!!!!

Appreciates the advice fellas!

thanks

[Todd TCE]

Pick any that fit, they'll all do the same job. Brands, styles, slots, holes, both, whatever you prefer. The size remains the same.

Then pick a pad that is stable in the temp range you drive in. If you're harder on things then get one with a stable upper temp range. Expect a bit more dust and noise however with them. Spend more time picking the proper pad with feedback from others than the rotor.

Then learn to creep the car after hard applications or take your foot off the brake pedal so you stop baking the pads to the rotor.

[Popeye's Hemi]

Pick any that fit, they'll all do the same job. Brands, styles, slots, holes, both, whatever you prefer. The size remains the same.

Then pick a pad that is stable in the temp range you drive in. If you're harder on things then get one with a stable upper temp range. Expect a bit more dust and noise however with them. Spend more time picking the proper pad with feedback from others than the rotor.

Then learn to creep the car after hard applications or take your foot off the brake pedal so you stop baking the pads to the rotor.

Thanks for the advice and I will follow up. What pads would you recommend?

[formerice]

Have you tried the Zechausen brake bedding procedure? Sometimes that will permanently fix warped rotors, sometimes not. I got 85,000 miles out of the stock Mopar pads and 135,000 out of the rotors,(they got thin) I replaced rotors with NAPA cheapest ones and they have been fine. Mopar changed the pad compound, originals were very dust free, new ones a bit dirty.

[Popeye's Hemi]

Have you tried the Zechausen brake bedding procedure? Sometimes that will permanently fix warped rotors, sometimes not. I got 85,000 miles out of the stock Mopar pads and 135,000 out of the rotors,(they got thin) I replaced rotors with NAPA cheapest ones and they have been fine. Mopar changed the pad compound, originals were very dust free, new ones a bit dirty.

I used it to bed in the pads and rotors I currently have on the car. But I'll give it another shot. I think I may just change out the pads for EBC yellow stuff or red and see what that will do. I wonder if you can run with a different type pads on the front versus the back?

[Todd TCE]

I'd rather stay out of the pad brand conversation as my thoughts run with the Wilwood application pads more than others. There are some very good pads to choose from but do spend time understanding why may be more suited to your use than another. There is no perfect pad for all applications.

The bed-in procedures there are sound. The problem doesn't come so much from how they were bed in, nor from the braking event. The biggest culprit remains post stopping with the pads squeezing the rotors at 600f for example. Most generic street pads won't hold up well that way and will smear the rotor after it bakes a hot spot on it.

Mixing your pads is not a bad thing, in fact it can be a good thing. But...you'd do well to understand the Cf of each pad and how they react to heat. You'd not want a pad that fades in the upper temp range on the front while sporting a pad that ramps up in Cf with temp in the rear. Often times pad compounds are used (and encouraged) to balance out the car under hard braking for track use. It's more common on the track than street however.

[Popeye's Hemi]

I'd rather stay out of the pad brand conversation as my thoughts run with the Wilwood application pads more than others. There are some very good pads to choose from but do spend time understanding why may be more suited to your use than another. There is no perfect pad for all applications.

The bed-in procedures there are sound. The problem doesn't come so much from how they were bed in, nor from the braking event. The biggest culprit remains post stopping with the pads squeezing the rotors at 600f for example. Most generic street pads won't hold up well that way and will smear the rotor after it bakes a hot spot on it.

Mixing your pads is not a bad thing, in fact it can be a good thing. But...you'd do well to understand the Cf of each pad and how they react to heat. You'd not want a pad that fades in the upper temp range on the front while sporting a pad that ramps up in Cf with temp in the rear. Often times pad compounds are used (and encouraged) to balance out the car under hard braking for track use. It's more common on the track than street however.

Thanks Todd, sounds like I need to do some research on pad Cf ( ???? friction ) I assume? Can I fix the rotors with out turning them or just bit the bullet and get a new setup for the front and do the rears later? I understand that I need to learn to creep the brakes post stopping. I thought I was relatively conscientious about that but apparently not.

[Todd TCE]

Sometimes a combo of hand sanding the rotor with some 80 grit paper and the installation of a bit more abrasive pad will wipe things clean enough to make it all good. It seems to depend on how bad things are.

The creeping helps. I have 62k on my Titan truck stock rotors and pads, I read on the forums of guys on their 3rd or more set of rotors....Mine don't shake, but I practice what I preach too. And in fairness may not tow as much as they do at times.

[Popeye's Hemi]

I will give that a try and the current pads are semi metallic or are you referring to something different?
I know that ceramic is not as abrassive as the semi's and what about something with kevlar.

[dudeiwin86]

avoid drilled.
i cracked my drilled rotors from R1 Concepts.
they replaced them free of charge because theyre not supposed to crack due to the fact that i bought their "premium" line.
i replaced them with slotted rotors from R1 Concepts. really enjoying them.

i had Posiquiet Ceramic pads and really miss them.
I put Hawk Ceramic pads in place of my old pads when i swapped the rotors
(this was fronts only mind you)
and they dust and squeel a LOT more. not sure if its worth it.

heres some carnage of why not to get drilled

[Todd TCE]

They might do the job. For grins, scuff them on the paper also using a flat surface like glass.

*Those cracks are common on all drilled rotors in time. Regardless of who's or "grade". It's a thermal expansion thing. For the the lower temp street user they will last much longer than the more agressive (say open track...) user where they'll be toast in one weekend. Can you make it better? As Matt knows: sure, take 1000 lbs out of your cars!

[dudeiwin86]

They might do the job. For grins, scuff them on the paper also using a flat surface like glass.

*Those cracks are common on all drilled rotors in time. Regardless of who's or "grade". It's a thermal expansion thing. For the the lower temp street user they will last much longer than the more agressive (say open track...) user where they'll be toast in one weekend. Can you make it better? As Matt knows: sure, take 1000 lbs out of your cars!

my car has never ben 1/4 miled or tracked.
some heavy street use and daily driving,
but i did that to those rotors in less than a year.
sure in some "spirited" driving they might get heated
but i drive in traffic for about 80% of my driving. its not like i was flogging them.
i coast as much as possible and try to use braeks as little as possible. you find better gas mileage this way because you will be accelerating back up to speed less often. and i gear brake as much as possible-- point being.
i only ride the brakes at 1mph in traffic.

hope my experience can help you with your descision

its definately a weight issue with these cars.
all im saying is, if you like to "play" i wouldnt spend the coin on drilled unless you want to replace them often.

[Popeye's Hemi]

my car has never ben 1/4 miled or tracked.
some heavy street use and daily driving,
but i did that to those rotors in less than a year.
sure in some "spirited" driving they might get heated
but i drive in traffic for about 80% of my driving. its not like i was flogging them.
i coast as much as possible and try to use braeks as little as possible. you find better gas mileage this way because you will be accelerating back up to speed less often. and i gear brake as much as possible-- point being.
i only ride the brakes at 1mph in traffic.

hope my experience can help you with your descision

its definately a weight issue with these cars.
all im saying is, if you like to "play" i wouldnt spend the coin on drilled unless you want to replace them often.

Man I have them already the drilled and slotted that is and like you said I would not do them again. But I think they are warped or at least need some work done to them. I know you can't turn them. That's why this is good info from Todd-TCE about scuffing the surface with sand paper and using a most abrasive pad. Do you think the stock rotors are that much heavier than aftermarket rotors. What do you know about EBC Pads.

[dudeiwin86]

Man I have them already the drilled and slotted that is and like you said I would not do them again. But I think they are warped or at least need some work done to them. I know you can't turn them. That's why this is good info from Todd-TCE about scuffing the surface with sand paper and using a most abrasive pad. Do you think the stock rotors are that much heavier than aftermarket rotors. What do you know about EBC Pads.

dont know too much about EBC.
and in regards to weight... i think mots aftermarket rotors for the 5.7 are gonna be pretty negligible in weight difference.

if you can get those multipiece rotors that go with the kits like todd sells thats different,

but the cheaper stuff like R1 concepts etc use a rotor that is similar, if not the same as OEM, that has been CNC'd.

i swapped rotors because my stock rotors were warped.. supposedly it was a HUGE problem with these cars.. i experienced BAD shudders during even light braking any where over 60 mph.

i would have used another set of stock rotors and called it a day, but i wanted to improve the looks and went with d/s. cracked em in less than a year and got slotted... they feel great so far.. probably no better than stock other than looks.

one thing i read is this-
the OEM lug nuts will SLIGHTLY loosen on the wheels and can be the culprit of the brake shudder many experience.
merely tightening them back down MAY eliminate your problem.
it didnt work for me, but has worked for some who thought their rotors were warped.

[Popeye's Hemi]

I checked the lug nuts right away but will do again. This will be the 4th set on the front if I have to replace them. But I have learned a bit more from this and can make a better decision now. I only have 20K on them. At least they look good.