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  1. #1
    SnowgodCCR's Avatar
    SnowgodCCR is offline Less than impressed
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    Hotchkis vs. Eibach vs. Pedders

    Which set of swaybars would you say are best?

    I hear alot of great things about the hotchkis bars, but I also hear that they squeak. Has this issue been addressed with the new greasable bushes?

    Anybody have any experience with the other two? Is the Pedders kit really $75 better than the Hotchkis and $150 better than the Eibach? I've settled on the Pedders Touring+ Package , but I'm looking to augment it with swaybars. I would like to keep things the same brand and shop (to avoid shipping fees ), but $799 and then $475 for the matching sways is really starting to push the budget, unless someone can convince me that the pedders sways are really $75 better than the hotchkis ones.

    Thanks guys!

  2. #2
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    You'll get 1001 answers. 999 of them will say Hotchkis but I believe Mopars are a close second if not equal to Hotchkis and you won't have to grease the sh*t out of them every time you wipe your ass to prevent them from squeaking neither!

    Eibachs are a far 3rd or 4th IMHO. I have't heard of anyone who just bought Pedders without some of their other stuff so... you might have hard time finding a conclusive review of Pedders sways and sways alone.
    2006 Dodge Charger RT - 6.1L motor, 3.06 rear, Brembos, SRT steering & electronics * KWV2 suspension * Hotchkis sways * BWoody endlinks * SRT fascia & spoiler * Trufiber SRT hood * MSRT wheels * 6000k HID lows/fogs * Aftermarket LED headlamps * MyGIG * 1ST COMPLETE '06-'08 INTERIOR CONVERSION * AFE Stage2 CAI * catless mids * 170 tstat * Predator 93oct tune... & a bunch of other sh!t I cant remember!

  3. #3
    SnowgodCCR's Avatar
    SnowgodCCR is offline Less than impressed
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    Just looked up the mopar sways and there's no way I'm paying $450 for them when for $25 more I can get the pedders package that includes rear sway bar links and fancy pedders bushes. I think I'm leaning towards the pedders bars and bushes, but without the links to keep the price down, that would in essence give me the same effect as the hotchkis bars but for $30 less and I'd save on installation costs by getting it all done at the same shop at the same time.

    Thank you for pointing out the Mopar bars, I always completley forget that Mopar even makes aftermarket parts for the modern hemis. I'll be checking them out more often.

  4. #4
    metgo's Avatar
    metgo is offline Life is too short to be driving slow
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    The pedders ones are pretty good but I wouldn't recommend them.
    Quote Originally Posted by JusticePete
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    Quote Originally Posted by JusticePete
    In my years of business I have found that there are three truths: the customer's truth, the busness owner's truth and the truth that lies some where in the middle. No additional commentary is required nor would it would serve no purpose.
    My Pedders Experience

    SRT MAX 112 LSA | Inertia Bg Valve heads | SLP Longtubes | Gutted Cats | SLP LM1 | AFE Stage II | 90mm TB | 25% Underdrive pulley | Mopar TCM | Pro Torque 2800 | Getrag LSD | Inertia CMR tuned | Pedder Track II | 402 rwhp 406 rwtq12.3 @ 112

  5. #5
    richierevs's Avatar
    richierevs is offline I Need DRs Really Bad....
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    I run Eibach sway bars with BWoody rear sway bar linkages. Without the BWoodys the Eibachs are just OK.

  6. #6
    Super T's Avatar
    Super T is offline Speed on... Hell ain't half full
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    Not sure where all the squeak complaints come from... Grease 'em once a year and you're good to go. The rears have zerks, the fronts take 10 minutes to get to.

    Hotchkis publishes stiffness data (as a percentage improvement over stock), nobody else does. That's enough to make up my mind (twice).


    I DRINK ROYAL PURPLE! WHAT NOW?!

    > 2006 Silver SRT-8 magnum, adopted 9/9/06 with 36 miles, groups I, II, &III.
    * tinted LED Tails * Mopar Remote Start * Stainless Airhammer * Coated Kooks Longtubes * PPP Heads, Cam, and Converter * Alpine R10 Subs/AoN Enclosures * 20" Black AR 311's w/ Nitto 420's * Corsa cat-back * Front Window Tint * Ratman Hatch Button Mod * Hotchkis Sways * BT Underhood Bling * Polished Intake Manifold * Autodim Drivers Mirror *

  7. #7
    SnowgodCCR's Avatar
    SnowgodCCR is offline Less than impressed
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    Quote Originally Posted by metgo View Post
    The pedders ones are pretty good but I wouldn't recommend them.
    Why not?

    It seems that we've eliminated the Eibachs from the pool, now it's down to pedders or hotchkis.

    I like what Super T said about stiffness data...that's a good selling point IMO.

  8. #8
    Gucci300C is offline Banned
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    Well Ive driven a few SRT's with the hotchkis sways and the razors edge shock tower brace and what a difference i really like them and im going to be going hotch all the way

  9. #9
    drafter is offline LX Newbie
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    Grease 'em once a year and you're good to go. The rears have zerks, the fronts take 10 minutes to get to.
    What are zerks?

  10. #10
    Leadfootluke's Avatar
    Leadfootluke is offline LX Guru
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    Quote Originally Posted by drafter View Post
    What are zerks?
    Where you pump the grease into.

    Pedders are probably more expensive and if you click on his links in his sig relating to his personal experience you can see why he would say that.
    HammerStyleIntakeBilletTechBlastinBobTommyZDesign

  11. #11
    Rob@WretchedMS's Avatar
    Rob@WretchedMS is offline Evil Pedders Guy Since 06
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    Hotchkis are not adjustable, and use plasticy (i made that up) bushings which tend to be noisy, and require re-lubing them on a regular basis

    Pedders are adjustable, and use our urethane bushings that don't make noise, and require no maintenance.

    I have them on my SRT and they handle very well.

    Our Kit also comes with rear links, or you can get the bars separately for $345
    Last edited by Rob@WretchedMS; 04-22-2009 at 12:41 AM.

  12. #12
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    I use the Eibach sways and they seem to work really well. Quiet too. I think they're all good. Going to come down to preference and cost.
    PPP stage 3 heads, Howards cam 219/227 .600/.575 112 +4, ported 6.1 intake, MMPG 85mm throttle body, MSD "Blaster" coils, JBA headers & mids, Corsa exhaust, Paramount "Dominator" torque converter & stage 2 valve body, BC Racing coilovers, Eibach sways, BWoody links, Razorsedge brace, 226mm Getrag 3.91 LSD, Wilwood "plus 2" big brake kit by TCE


  13. #13
    Popeye's Hemi's Avatar
    Popeye's Hemi is offline Retired US Coast Guard Engineering Chief
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    Recently installed my Hotchkis sway bars, SPC Front Upper control arms and SPC Rear Camber bushings. The car has 98K miles. First I installed the control arms and rear bushing no difference in ride quality(well maybe a little) but when I put the sway bars on "what a difference that made. With the Eibach Suspension 1.7" drop springs and dampers for 18 months now and the sways the car is tight and handles Great. Took 2 hours to install the front and rear sways and make a few minor adjustments to the exhaust all using just a low profile hydraulic jack and jack stands. Not sure if I need new sway bar end links but the OEM links are very wimpy compared to the new sway bars.
    6.4 Apache Heads, 6.1 SB, SRT-MAxx Cam, 6.1 Intake, 87mm TB Ported by MM, TTi Long Tubes and Mid pipes, Dyno-Max Ultra-Flow 3" Exhaust, LMI 4" CAI, Predator, BC Racing Suspension, Magnum front w/69 Cuda Grill inserts, Trufiber SRT8 hood, SLP 25% Under Drive Pulley, Zeitronix Wideband, Hotchkis Sway Bars, SPC Front/Rear Camber Kits, 3.06 GETRAG, Builder Bill Billet Stator 3200 TC, Flex-Plate & Valve Body, MTCM, Brembo brake set and Dyno Tuned by AJ Hemituner.


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob@WretchedMS View Post
    Hotchkis are not adjustable, and use plasticy (i made that up) bushings which tend to be noisy, and require re-lubing them on a regular basis

    Pedders are adjustable, and use our urethane bushings that don't make noise, and require no maintenance.

    I have them on my SRT and they handle very well.

    Our Kit also comes with rear links, or you can get the bars separately for $345
    What are the measurements (millimeters please, no inches) of your sways? Any stiffness data over stock? And is that $345 for front and rear sways and bushes? If so then good for Pedders for finally making their prices competitive!
    2006 Dodge Charger RT - 6.1L motor, 3.06 rear, Brembos, SRT steering & electronics * KWV2 suspension * Hotchkis sways * BWoody endlinks * SRT fascia & spoiler * Trufiber SRT hood * MSRT wheels * 6000k HID lows/fogs * Aftermarket LED headlamps * MyGIG * 1ST COMPLETE '06-'08 INTERIOR CONVERSION * AFE Stage2 CAI * catless mids * 170 tstat * Predator 93oct tune... & a bunch of other sh!t I cant remember!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Popeye's Hemi View Post
    Recently installed my Hotchkis sway bars, SPC Front Upper control arms and SPC Rear Camber bushings. The car has 98K miles. First I installed the control arms and rear bushing no difference in ride quality(well maybe a little) but when I put the sway bars on "what a difference that made. With the Eibach Suspension 1.7" drop springs and dampers for 18 months now and the sways the car is tight and handles Great. Took 2 hours to install the front and rear sways and make a few minor adjustments to the exhaust all using just a low profile hydraulic jack and jack stands. Not sure if I need new sway bar end links but the OEM links are very wimpy compared to the new sway bars.
    Really? Just 2 hours for front and rear sways? Did you drop the cradle? I hear those cradle bolts require gorilla strength to loosen.
    2006 Dodge Charger RT - 6.1L motor, 3.06 rear, Brembos, SRT steering & electronics * KWV2 suspension * Hotchkis sways * BWoody endlinks * SRT fascia & spoiler * Trufiber SRT hood * MSRT wheels * 6000k HID lows/fogs * Aftermarket LED headlamps * MyGIG * 1ST COMPLETE '06-'08 INTERIOR CONVERSION * AFE Stage2 CAI * catless mids * 170 tstat * Predator 93oct tune... & a bunch of other sh!t I cant remember!

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