front tension strut

[thewagon]

Couple questions:
1) Is this picture with the cracked rubber bad? I think its the front right tension strut?



at the end of this thing



2) this right boot is leaking, front suspension. Urgent to fix and/or what symptons would this cause? (sorry, really out of focus)


thank you

[Hemi31]

Time for a new one.See if you can get it rep;aced under the TSB before you buy one.But they are only about $60 per side.

[Cdn_Magnum]

The tension strut is likely warranty. But the ball joint looks like someone ripped it ... doesnt look like normal wear and tear.

[formerice]

Inspect the inner tie rods on the rack, they are prone to wear, I just replaced my whole rack for the third time, poor design not to be able to replace tie rods but have to replace a $500 rack each time. First 2 times warantee, last time on me. I do have 100,000 miles and Maine has the worst roads in the US. The oil -grease leak is normal, btw.

[thewagon]

TSB? I checked the TSB's and didn't see it. Did I miss it?
http://modsfaceoff.com/2005_dodge_ma..._TSB_Index.pdf

Time for a new one.See if you can get it rep;aced under the TSB before you buy one.But they are only about $60 per side.

[Hemi31]

Might have only been an internal tech tip.If your still under warranty it might be covered anyway.

[bookeem]

anyone have te part numbers for the tension struts, 06 magnum SE, both drivers side and passenger side, and are they all the same on the mags?

thanks..my dealership is about to order them for me and replace them under warranty, i just want to make sure they order te right patrs , for a easy dealer visit..

[thewagon]

The dealership was great. (Victorville Motors in California) No problems or hassles in the no charge for the tension strut replacement and boot. Even had a free rental for the day. A Chrysler Sebring (let's just say I really missed the Magnum)

[bookeem]

hows it feel now withe new tensio strut, was it rattling, is the rattle gone now..

and if te part is on national backorder, can one dealership get hte parts from another if they have any in stock, rather than waiting for them to be re stocked or whatever from the back order..

thanks..

[thewagon]

No indication of any problems prior to me noticing the cracked rubber. Car ran fine, handled fine, no noises.
As for the dealer swaps...don't know.

[thewagon]

UPDATE: Dealer did the repairs, no problems, under warranty.

Thanks Victorville Motors

[GrantK]

How involved is doing the tension strut and/or end link replacement? I've been searching and haven't found a write up on this. Can anyone help? Thanks...

[fnkychkn]

How involved is doing the tension strut and/or end link replacement? I've been searching and haven't found a write up on this. Can anyone help? Thanks...

here you go:

TENSION STRUT
REMOVAL

1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
3. Remove belly pan.
   
4. Loosen nut (3) attaching tension strut (2) ball joint stud to knuckle. Back nut off until nut is even with end of stud. Keeping nut on at this location will help keep end of stud from distorting while using Puller in next step.
   
   
   CAUTION: In following step, use care not to damage ball joint seal boot while sliding Puller, Special Tool 9360, into place past seal boot.
5. Using Puller (1), Special Tool 9360, separate tension strut ball joint stud (2) from knuckle.
   
   
6. Remove nut (3) from end of tension strut (2) ball joint stud.
7. Rotate knuckle outward and push ball joint upward, out of knuckle.
   
   
   CAUTION: If the tension strut bolt at the engine cradle has a lengthwise grooved shaft (2), it is a special wheel alignment adjustment bolt and the bolt head (1) must not be rotated in the vehicle or damage to the bolt and engine cradle will result. While holding the bolt in place with a wrench, remove the nut, then slide the bolt out of the bushing and cradle taking note of bolt positioning in engine cradle for reassembly purposes. The bolt needs to be installed in the same position as removed to make sure wheel camber and caster return to adjusted position.
   
   
   
8. Remove nut and bolt (2) securing tension strut (1) to engine cradle (3).
9. Slide tension strut out of cradle bracket and remove from vehicle.

INSTALLATION




NOTE: If installing a tension strut engine cradle bolt that is a wheel alignment adjustment bolt (lengthwise grooved shaft (2)), make sure to install it in the same position which it was in upon removal. For more details on installation of this special bolt,

1. Slide bushing end of tension strut (1) into cradle bracket (3).
2. Install mounting bolt (2) from front through cradle and bushing.
3. Install nut (2), but do not tighten at this time.
   
   
4. Insert tension strut (2) ball joint stud downward, into knuckle hole.
5. Completely install NEW nut (3) on ball joint stud attaching tension strut (2) to knuckle (1). Tighten nut by holding ball joint stud with a hex wrench while turning nut with a wrench. Tighten nut using crow foot wrench on torque wrench to 68 N·m + 90° turn (50 ft. lbs. + 90° turn) torque.
6. 
   
   Install tire and wheel assembly (1). Tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 150 N·m (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Position vehicle on an alignment rack/drive-on lift.
   
   
9. Perform wheel alignment. CAUTION: If the tension strut engine cradle bolt is a wheel alignment adjustment bolt (lengthwise grooved shaft (2)), be sure to only tighten the nut. Do not rotate the bolt head (1) or damage to the bushing will occur.
   
   
   
10. Once alignment is found to be within specifications, using a crowfoot wrench, tighten tension strut cradle bolt nut (2) to 176 N·m (130 ft. lbs.) torque while holding the bolt stationary.
11. Install belly pan.

[fnkychkn]

STABILIZER BAR

REMOVAL - RWD

1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove belly pan.

1. On each side of vehicle, remove screws (1) fastening stabilizer bar heat shield (3). Remove heat shield.
   
   
2. On each side of vehicle, remove bolts (2) fastening stabilizer bar isolator retainer (1) in place.
   
   
3. On each side of vehicle, remove retainer halves (1)(2) from around stabilizer bar isolator (3).
   
   
4. Utilizing slit, remove each isolator (1) from stabilizer bar (2).
   
   
5. On each side of vehicle, remove nut (5) fastening stabilizer link (3) to stabilizer bar (4). Slide link ball joint stem (1) from bar, then remove bar from vehicle.

[GrantK]

Thanks Fnky for the information, is it necessary to use the "special tool 9360" to pop the ball joint from the knuckle? I've seem several similiar ball joint tools out there that look similar to 9360, I'm wondering if there are any other options. Any other tricks or suprises in doing the tension struts that I should know about?

FYI- I just did my sway bar end links on an '05 SXT 3.5l, I had to hold the end of the end link (10mm socket) to get the nut off, my end links were toast and solved most of my front end clunking problem.

Thanks again!!